Low gas milage, no zip... - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 05:36 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Low gas milage, no zip...

I just acquired a 1996 Land Rover Discovery I, SD 4.0l V8, automatic tranny. It had a "check engine" light and the code read a miss but after I cleared it it has never recurred in over 1,000 miles. I use 89 to 93 octane gas. The little beast starts right up with no excessive smoke. But the gas mileage is between 10-12 MPG and it has no "pep". There is no discernible slippage in the tranny.

The guy that I got it from said that the O2 sensors might be the wrong ones but I would rather try all the less expensive solutions, first.

The Disco is in good shape for a 21 year old vehicle with 154,000 miles.

I am a total nube to Land Rovers but I did have an English Triumph Motorcycle so I am familiar with the idiosyncrasies of Lucas electronics. I have heard it said that the English drink beer because Lucas makes refrigerators...

Any words of wisdom, mystic incantations or spirit dances would be appreciated. Where should I start???

PS what should the tachometer read at 50 MPH?

Peace, Brothers...
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:06 AM
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Should be just under 2k at 50mph. Torque converter doesn't lock until about 52mph. With 154k it's not gonna be a rocket. Your mileage is about right but it can improve if you get to work on cleaning the top end up plus plugs, wires, throttle body/plenum, PCV....... blah, blah, blah. The best your going to see is 17mpg with synthetics in all diffs, skinny tires and a spotless engine. Not hard to get a Disco up to par, just takes time.

There is nothing exotic about a Land Rover, not kidding. What makes them exotic is having a woman trust it.

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The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:19 AM
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The best your going to see is 17mpg with synthetics in all diffs, skinny tires and a spotless engine.
And 17 means having a very light foot around town and keeping it under 65 on the highway.

I don't think there's any Lucas on your truck. It should be Bosch/BMW. And while the folks at Lucas could only attach two wires together with solder effectively only three out of ten times, just wait until you start dealing with the two discrete Bosch computer modules that control the cigarette lighter.

Seriously, there are a number of threads in the Discovery sections that will walk you through what you should do right away once buying one of these trucks. Follow them all. No one is exaggerating.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 07:59 AM
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Speaking from experience CT, 17 is not hard to achieve. I drove mine hard, not like an old fart going to Bingo.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:19 AM
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I took the one I did for my son on a 3000 mile roundabout road trip when I was taking it to him. I averaged 16MPG on mostly highway and state route driving, not really breaking 70. This was with a brand new motor and everything in 100% shape.

Afterwards, I thought that was pretty good so I looked it up- https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/20324.shtml I wasn't surprised that city and highway are so close. My Simplicity lawn tractor is more aerodynamic than the D2. I was surprised though to beat the EPA estimate- that's pretty rare.

I think in terms of how people around me drive. I watch in my local community as people haul ass away when the light changes only to sit at the next red light while I roll up. Driving like that, I'm pretty sure the EPA isn't off the mark on their estimate.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:38 AM
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An internally clean motor is an efficient motor. Whatever it takes to make that happen. A WOT run every now and then never hurts these motors. I suggest changing the plugs right afterwards.........

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 10:52 AM
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If you're driving it like an adult and not hammering it between lights, 10 isn't great. It puts out less than 200 horsepower so temper your expectations.

At that mileage, I'd do a compression test and a leakdown to baseline where you're at. With low compression you'll get poor performance. If you're not too far out of spec, fresh plugs and wires are a must. The Rover runs much better with a good quality aftermarket plug wire in an 8mm silicone. A fresh air filter element is a must. After that you can try replacing the MAF. You don't necessarily need to be seeing codes from this to have a problem. It could be a cam issue but if it's not making a noise you're probably OK there.

There are lots of threads on the to-do's of owning a Discovery. If you find that the engine isn't hurt internally you should read up and do all of it. Especially the cooling system stuff.
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 02:31 PM
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At 11-12 mpg in town, your mileage per gallon is about right. Look for 16 or so mpg on the hwy. They just do not get good mpg.
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 04:18 PM
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He has not said whether he drives mainly around town or on long trips. 16 to 17 miles to a US gallon is reasonable for a trip, but 10 to 12 miles per US gallon would not be abnormal around town. Particularly with cold starts this time of year.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:03 PM
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Garage
I agree
10-12 in town is pretty realistic
16-17 would be in my opinion would be very optimistic especially in winter temps. And on winter formulated fuel.
Winter formulated fuel ..... Do is see a new topic for ct and rangie?������

On the "no zip" what are you comparing to? Another discovery?

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:15 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks to all that replied. I feel a lot better. Now, it seems, I will replace all the fluids as per recommendations, new plugs and wires and new O2 sensors just because I don't know what's in there now. The truck is in great shape for a 21 year old vehicle. Body is perfect. After I do the "routine" maintenance, I will need to fix the Cruise Control (totally dead. The little light doesn't even turn on.) remote door locker and the key all door locks system. Then I have to re-glue the headliner in a few places. Otherwise, I am very happy. All essential systems seem to work. Then, custom seat covers and we be ready...

Thanks, again and DRIVE ON!!!
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:32 AM
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Winter formulated fuel ..... Do is see a new topic for ct and rangie?������
We have winter diesel. Never heard of winter gasoline. So not debate from me.
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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:44 AM
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The EPA requires that fuels are blended differently in summer and winter. Summer fuels have a lower volatility as to resist evaporation in warmer temperatures.
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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:46 AM
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The EPA rates the truck at 13 and 15 https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/noframes/13232.shtml

Interesting read:

Quote:
At Edmunds.com an important part of our long-term testing program is recording "real-world" fuel consumption. Our long-term test vehicles are driven by a different driver each month. Some drivers have a lead foot while other drivers are mellower. Over Edmunds' year of ownership (and typically 20,000 miles) these differences average out. Furthermore, each month, we record the best and worst mileage we have gotten.

We decided it would be interesting to pull out a sampling of different test cars that we have driven and compare the "real-world" figures to the EPA estimates. Hopefully, this will help you better interpret the numbers you will be seeing on window stickers the next time you go car shopping. We have included different vehicles to get the best possible cross section.

Vehicle EPA Estimate Edmunds Average Best Tank Worst Tank
2004 Chrysler Pacifica (crossover) 17 City 22 Highway 15.7 mpg 20 mpg 10 mpg
2004 Mazda RX-8 (sports car) 18 City 24 Highway 17.1 mpg 22 mpg 13 mpg
2004 Nissan Quest SL (minivan) 19 City 26 Highway 18 mpg 22 mpg 12 mpg
2004 Nissan Titan SE 4X4 (pickup) 14 City 18 Highway 13.7 mpg 18 mpg 10 mpg
2004 Toyota Prius (hybrid sedan) 60 City 51 Highway 41.2 mpg 54 mpg 31 mpg

As this table shows, the average miles per gallon for every vehicle recorded by Edmunds.com drivers was lower than the low end of the EPA's estimate. It is important to note, though, that the vehicles cited above were driven mainly on city streets and were often in stop-and-go traffic. Furthermore, the Edmunds.com average was based on a variety of drivers. A single owner, with a more conservative approach to driving, could easily improve these numbers.

This information shows that, while car shopping, you should assume that your fuel economy will, as the fine print says, vary depending on conditions. However, it is safe to say that your average will be on the low end of what the EPA is predicting. Proceed accordingly.
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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 02-21-2017, 04:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jerseysal45 View Post
Thanks to all that replied. I feel a lot better. Now, it seems, I will replace all the fluids as per recommendations, new plugs and wires and new O2 sensors just because I don't know what's in there now. The truck is in great shape for a 21 year old vehicle. Body is perfect. After I do the "routine" maintenance, I will need to fix the Cruise Control (totally dead. The little light doesn't even turn on.) remote door locker and the key all door locks system. Then I have to re-glue the headliner in a few places. Otherwise, I am very happy. All essential systems seem to work. Then, custom seat covers and we be ready...

Thanks, again and DRIVE ON!!!
If you do want to replace the sensors, check Rockauto.com on the O2's. About half of what you'll find them for at Zone or Advance. I don't think I'd sweat it though. Take a look- if they are plugged directly into the harness and have no wire splices, it's unlikely they are incorrect. Also, the computer is seeing them and working off of the signal they are providing so chances are they're not giving you a problem. Use a good 8mm silicone wire- you'll find they're worth the few dollars extra.
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