Is my exhaust manifold cracked? Pic Inside>>> - Land Rovers Only

Mark Miller · 03-04-2007, 05:25 PM

Just curious..

And if I drill it, can it keep it from getting bigger.

96owner · 03-04-2007, 05:55 PM

just jb weld it. it will hold. or theres aways some one parting out a disco

Badger1 · 03-04-2007, 06:59 PM

Check your local dealer....seriously! The Louisville dealer is selling them brand new for $80! RN and AB are around $200. The reason I was given for the price diff is this manifold from the dealer is a redisgned part by LR to address the cracking problems. I have yet to buy one, but will before this month is over. Brand new for the price of another used one from a salvage vehicle.........no need to think that one over.

Paul Grant · 03-04-2007, 08:51 PM

If you want to save a few bucks, I have manifolds for $35 plus shipping. You can contact me at paulgrant@mac.com if you're interested.
Thanks,
Paul

Mark Miller · 03-05-2007, 11:26 AM

I got the used exhaust manifold installed. (From Paul Grant, Thanks)
Was easier than I thought, all the bolts came out with little effort.
I did break one bolt on the old manifold.

Makes a big difference, I'll miss the co2 dizziness.
The lower gasket was already blown out.

Total cost with all new gaskets was $80.00 and took only one evening.

Badger1 · 03-05-2007, 01:59 PM

Glad it all went well for you, I am still fearing the worst(broken bolts) when I do this job. At least I am close enough to work that I can bike(or use my wifes D2

), while I soak those bolts in vast amounts of PB!

Mark Miller · 03-07-2007, 06:16 PM

I know what you mean, I bought a brand new can of blaster.
I guess the bolts were easy due to the blown gaskets.

Funrover · 03-07-2007, 06:44 PM

Sweet..... Now you are set up for dual exhaust on that side...LOL

Paul Grant · 03-08-2007, 12:48 AM

I've always had good luck over the years with stainless steel bolts for holding the manifold against the head. Since we're no talking about a lot of torque and Rover makes those god awful lock washers, stainelsss steel is more than strong enough for the job. I've never had a problem with removing a stainless steel bolt in this application. So, next time you need to pull the manifold you might want to consider stainless steel bolts instead of plain steel.

As far as removing the nuts from the studs on the down pipes,a great way to avoid snapping the stud is to use an impact gun. When you use a conventional wrench or ratcheting wrench you are continually building up torque as you try to remove the nut. The likelihood of breaking the stud is far greater. When you use an impact gun, usually, the worst thing that happens is you remove not just the nut but the whole stud.

03-04-2007, 05:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
Mark Miller Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lake Seminole GA Posts: 14 Gallery: 0	Is my exhaust manifold cracked? Pic Inside>>> Just curious.. And if I drill it, can it keep it from getting bigger.

03-04-2007, 05:55 PM	#2 (permalink)
96owner Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Posts: 527 Gallery: 0	just jb weld it. it will hold. or theres aways some one parting out a disco __________________ Delaware Mother******! 1996 Disco Myspace mods: OME HD lift (thaks max) zombie

03-04-2007, 06:59 PM	#3 (permalink)
Badger1 Forward! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Loo-eee-ville, KY Posts: 2,153 Gallery: 1	Check your local dealer....seriously! The Louisville dealer is selling them brand new for $80! RN and AB are around $200. The reason I was given for the price diff is this manifold from the dealer is a redisgned part by LR to address the cracking problems. I have yet to buy one, but will before this month is over. Brand new for the price of another used one from a salvage vehicle.........no need to think that one over. __________________ 1997 Disco 1 2000 Disco 2 1989 RR(gone but not forgotten ) Miami Valley Land Rover Society www.mvlrs.com ON WISCONSIN

03-05-2007, 01:59 PM	#6 (permalink)
Badger1 Forward! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Loo-eee-ville, KY Posts: 2,153 Gallery: 1	Glad it all went well for you, I am still fearing the worst(broken bolts) when I do this job. At least I am close enough to work that I can bike(or use my wifes D2 ), while I soak those bolts in vast amounts of PB! __________________ 1997 Disco 1 2000 Disco 2 1989 RR(gone but not forgotten ) Miami Valley Land Rover Society www.mvlrs.com ON WISCONSIN

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03-04-2007, 08:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
Paul Grant Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT Posts: 850 Gallery: 0	If you want to save a few bucks, I have manifolds for $35 plus shipping. You can contact me at paulgrant@mac.com if you're interested. Thanks, Paul

03-05-2007, 11:26 AM	#5 (permalink)
Mark Miller Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lake Seminole GA Posts: 14 Gallery: 0	I got the used exhaust manifold installed. (From Paul Grant, Thanks) Was easier than I thought, all the bolts came out with little effort. I did break one bolt on the old manifold. Makes a big difference, I'll miss the co2 dizziness. The lower gasket was already blown out. Total cost with all new gaskets was $80.00 and took only one evening.

03-07-2007, 06:16 PM	#7 (permalink)
Mark Miller Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lake Seminole GA Posts: 14 Gallery: 0	I know what you mean, I bought a brand new can of blaster. I guess the bolts were easy due to the blown gaskets.

03-08-2007, 12:48 AM	#9 (permalink)
Paul Grant Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: CT Posts: 850 Gallery: 0	I've always had good luck over the years with stainless steel bolts for holding the manifold against the head. Since we're no talking about a lot of torque and Rover makes those god awful lock washers, stainelsss steel is more than strong enough for the job. I've never had a problem with removing a stainless steel bolt in this application. So, next time you need to pull the manifold you might want to consider stainless steel bolts instead of plain steel. As far as removing the nuts from the studs on the down pipes,a great way to avoid snapping the stud is to use an impact gun. When you use a conventional wrench or ratcheting wrench you are continually building up torque as you try to remove the nut. The likelihood of breaking the stud is far greater. When you use an impact gun, usually, the worst thing that happens is you remove not just the nut but the whole stud.

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