Oil Change Questions - Land Rovers Only

IFBwax · 06-15-2006, 05:18 PM

Going to attempt my first oil change and have some bonehead questions.

1. I went to local auto parts store and the chart from K & N said correct filter was 2003 (or something like that, can't remember for sure) but I see from past posts, some on here have said 3001 is better. Is that just a preference? Will the 2003 work?

2. The very detailed LR Manual says drain oil, then replace, THEN remove and replace filter. Is this how everyone does it? Is there much spillage from the filter when you remove it this way?

3. I take it the Oil Drain Valve is the one at the bottom of the sump.. kind of about a foot to the rear of the front tire... in the middle?

4. Any other things I should know? I got a few copper washers in M12 and M10 size as I'm not sure which it will take.

5. Torque spec on tightening the drain plug?

Thanks for your time!

Wayne

Badger1 · 06-16-2006, 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IFBwax

Going to attempt my first oil change and have some bonehead questions.

1. I went to local auto parts store and the chart from K & N said correct filter was 2003 (or something like that, can't remember for sure) but I see from past posts, some on here have said 3001 is better. Is that just a preference? Will the 2003 work?

2. The very detailed LR Manual says drain oil, then replace, THEN remove and replace filter. Is this how everyone does it? Is there much spillage from the filter when you remove it this way?

3. I take it the Oil Drain Valve is the one at the bottom of the sump.. kind of about a foot to the rear of the front tire... in the middle?

4. Any other things I should know? I got a few copper washers in M12 and M10 size as I'm not sure which it will take.

5. Torque spec on tightening the drain plug?

Thanks for your time!

Wayne

1. Yes

2. Yes! The reason for that is you don't want the oil pump running dry... then it would need to be re-primed.

3. Yes, on the left side of the oil pan. 1" 1/8 wrench fits the drain plug.

4. Just go to your local dealer and pick a bunch up, they are cheap.

5.

I always just snug it... don't go strong man on it and over do it.

IFBwax · 06-19-2006, 03:33 PM

thanks a bunch badger!!!! I'll get to that as soon as I finish putting a new Thermostat in my Bus. I appreciate your time!

Discodude19 · 06-19-2006, 04:31 PM

I would really suggest that you run mobile one synthetic oil and oil filter it will help your engine a lot. I've been running it for like almost 7000 miles and i have noticed that it runs much nicer. I run the mobile one 10w-30 synthetic.

Disco Mike · 06-19-2006, 05:32 PM

The 3001 K&N oil filter is about 30% larger then standard for the same price.
Synthetic oil is good but only if you change it more frequently then what is recommended. Rover engines run too rich and polute the engine oil by 3000 miles so I would suggest you stay witha good oil, like Castrols 20/50W with 3000 mile changes.
I don't recommend 10/30W oil of any brand because Rover engines have enough low end oil pressure problems without our making it worse. It might be fine in the snow country in the winter other wise go heavy.
Mike

IFBwax · 06-20-2006, 04:33 PM

I appreciate both your comments about oil.. but seeing as how I have a big box of Castrol 20/50 in my garage right now.. I think I'm going with that. I was wrong about the # of the Oil filter.. it's K & N 2004.

Wish me luck!

Disco Mike · 06-20-2006, 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by IFBwax

I appreciate both your comments about oil.. but seeing as how I have a big box of Castrol 20/50 in my garage right now.. I think I'm going with that. I was wrong about the # of the Oil filter.. it's K & N 2004.

Wish me luck!

Next time around go with the 3001 filter, does a better job longer. I just changed my oil today using Castols 20/50W blend, the weight will be better for you engine.
Mike

RageRover · 06-20-2006, 07:11 PM

That reminds me, I too also was reading that the owner's manual says to drain the oil, put the plug back in, add the correct amount of new oil, then replace the oil filter. This is how I did it the first two oil changes I had the truck, then just last night I totally forgot about doing it that way, cause at the same time I was changing the oil on my aunt's Grand Cherokee. I drained the oil, put the plug back in, took the oil filter off, and as soon as I went to get a rag to clean the oil filter head, I remembered, and went "Oh SH$T!" I just winged it and put some new oil in the new oil filter and screwed her back on hand tight. Put in 5 quarts, plus a can of that Engine Restorer, and then ran the motor, checked for leaks (none of course), turned off the motor, waited, checked the oil level, added the 6th and final quart, and called it quits.

Did I do something that might've screwed with the oil pump?

I don't think I did, she still drives, and runs.

p76rangie · 06-20-2006, 07:52 PM

You did it the way that most people (including myself) change oil and filters. It is fine.

Ian

RageRover · 06-20-2006, 07:57 PM

Whew....

That makes things a lot better.

06-15-2006, 05:18 PM	#1 (permalink)
IFBwax Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 16 Gallery: 0	Oil Change Questions Going to attempt my first oil change and have some bonehead questions. 1. I went to local auto parts store and the chart from K & N said correct filter was 2003 (or something like that, can't remember for sure) but I see from past posts, some on here have said 3001 is better. Is that just a preference? Will the 2003 work? 2. The very detailed LR Manual says drain oil, then replace, THEN remove and replace filter. Is this how everyone does it? Is there much spillage from the filter when you remove it this way? 3. I take it the Oil Drain Valve is the one at the bottom of the sump.. kind of about a foot to the rear of the front tire... in the middle? 4. Any other things I should know? I got a few copper washers in M12 and M10 size as I'm not sure which it will take. 5. Torque spec on tightening the drain plug? Thanks for your time! Wayne

06-20-2006, 07:11 PM	#8 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	That reminds me, I too also was reading that the owner's manual says to drain the oil, put the plug back in, add the correct amount of new oil, then replace the oil filter. This is how I did it the first two oil changes I had the truck, then just last night I totally forgot about doing it that way, cause at the same time I was changing the oil on my aunt's Grand Cherokee. I drained the oil, put the plug back in, took the oil filter off, and as soon as I went to get a rag to clean the oil filter head, I remembered, and went "Oh SH$T!" I just winged it and put some new oil in the new oil filter and screwed her back on hand tight. Put in 5 quarts, plus a can of that Engine Restorer, and then ran the motor, checked for leaks (none of course), turned off the motor, waited, checked the oil level, added the 6th and final quart, and called it quits. Did I do something that might've screwed with the oil pump? I don't think I did, she still drives, and runs. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

06-20-2006, 07:57 PM	#10 (permalink)
RageRover Crazy about Rovers and more... Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Westland, MI Posts: 2,889 Gallery: 0	Whew.... That makes things a lot better. __________________ Pat Albaugh, Midwest Moderator "Diffage" -the point at which the truck's differential makes contact with the ground. http://www.cardomain.com/id/RageRover42Visit my RRC and others here!(updated as of September 15, 2006) 1995 RRC LWB -LT265/75R16 Pathfinder All Terrains -RTE 2" Lift Springs -Pro Comp ES9000 Shocks (from DAP Enterprises) -KMC Front Diff Guard -4 Desert Fox 55 watt Lighting -Radio Shack CB Radio (never know when signal fails on a cell phone) -2 Halogen Super Sport 100 watt forward lights -Custom slim style front bumper w/ integrated bull bar -Lowe's Special "Homemade" Snorkel -T-Case out of an 92' RRC

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06-19-2006, 03:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
IFBwax Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 16 Gallery: 0	thanks a bunch badger!!!! I'll get to that as soon as I finish putting a new Thermostat in my Bus. I appreciate your time!

06-19-2006, 04:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
Discodude19 I would rather die on my feet then live on my knees. Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Colorado Springs Posts: 122 Gallery: 0	I would really suggest that you run mobile one synthetic oil and oil filter it will help your engine a lot. I've been running it for like almost 7000 miles and i have noticed that it runs much nicer. I run the mobile one 10w-30 synthetic.

06-19-2006, 05:32 PM	#5 (permalink)
Disco Mike Moderator Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Parker, Colorado Posts: 5,472 Gallery: 0	The 3001 K&N oil filter is about 30% larger then standard for the same price. Synthetic oil is good but only if you change it more frequently then what is recommended. Rover engines run too rich and polute the engine oil by 3000 miles so I would suggest you stay witha good oil, like Castrols 20/50W with 3000 mile changes. I don't recommend 10/30W oil of any brand because Rover engines have enough low end oil pressure problems without our making it worse. It might be fine in the snow country in the winter other wise go heavy. Mike

06-20-2006, 04:33 PM	#6 (permalink)
IFBwax Member Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 16 Gallery: 0	I appreciate both your comments about oil.. but seeing as how I have a big box of Castrol 20/50 in my garage right now.. I think I'm going with that. I was wrong about the # of the Oil filter.. it's K & N 2004. Wish me luck!

06-20-2006, 07:52 PM	#9 (permalink)
p76rangie Ian Matthews Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Melbourne Australia Posts: 2,101 Gallery: 0	You did it the way that most people (including myself) change oil and filters. It is fine. Ian

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