P1316 Misfire Help!! - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Tim the Enchanter View Post
Well which is it, wouldn't start or misfire? If you make up your mind we might be able to fix this thing.

The year of the vehicle would also speed things up, so we know what system we are dealing with.
the engine would turn and fire but there would be misfires and it would stall repeatedly pulling out after finally getting it barely going it was misfiring and had no power. once it got past 30 mph though it ran fine.
it is a land rover discovery 1997 4.0L
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 04:48 PM
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Funny shit aint it.....

I can't tell if I'm diagnosing a Disco or a brain tumor!

We know it's an ODBII truck at least and I'll bet it's late 97 or 98.

In any case I still am staying on target with it being an O2 issue whether it's a connection or connector. The ECU is giving us the end result of "misfire" and is blanketing the culprit like Lambo's truck did. I'd like to shoot the guru who configured that mess to give resultant codes and not dysfunctional devices. I'll bet it's one of the upstream O2's with a shitty attitude causing the AF to go too rich like in LHM eh.

Check your O2's connections and if you would, swap the backs with the fronts please.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

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The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 04:52 PM
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Is the truck throwing any codes right now?

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:14 PM
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after clearing codes last they havnt popped back up but im sure theyll be back within 24 hours. i can physically hear misfires and gas being burned in the cat conv. i will go do that right now but i wont be able to let you know the status until ive drove it around and gotten it nice and hot
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:14 PM
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I agree on swapping the sensors front to back. The fact that once you clear the engine of excess fuel it drives OK would indicate it's being flooded. The flooding is leading to fouled plugs causing the misfire.

Swap the sensors front to back. I would like to know what you have for fuel pressure. Have you checked for vac leaks? Have you tried cleaning the MAF? How does it run when started cold?

Ah, you posted while I was typing.
You can hear gas being burned in the cats? There are only a few things that can cause this, firing order, injector stuck wide open, or stuck valves.

SHUT IT DOWN! Check firing order, fuel pressure, and compression test, ASAP!
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post #21 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:32 PM
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not a fuel pressure problem, nor injector problem or fouled plugs. i replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel rail, and injectors and there are brand new plugs in there. y would firing order and compression change only when the car is hot? the car starts and runs great in cold weather, even when its hot out it starts, it has the problem when weve been driving it around for a while and the engine gets pretty hot. going to go swap O2 sensors front to back right now
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post #22 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:39 PM
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o and how do you check the firing order?
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post #23 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 05:45 PM
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Have you CHECKED the fuel pressure? Or are you just assuming it's good because you threw parts at it?

I've seen some pretty stupid things over the years. If you are confident the firing order is correct then we'll assume it is. I hope to fuck you are right, because the GEMS system uses lost spark and can trick you. Have you checked in the dark for a bad coil? If the coil is firing out of order the secondary spark will still create spark at the plug, but maybe not enough to fire a lean mixture.

Sticking valves that don't close will allow combustion outside the cylinder, usually it's the exhaust valves that hang up, and usually when hot. A compression test will reveal a valve issue. And yes, if the valves hang open when the engine is hot it will make a change in your compression.

The firing order is actually stamped right into the coil bracket. The number corresponds to the cylinder the wire should run to. The cylinders are 1357 on the drivers side and 2468 on the other bank. Numbered front to back.
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post #24 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 06:27 PM
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havnt checked the fuel pressure after putting the new parts in it because an attachment to the meter is missing but with the old regulator we were getting 30-35psi

ive also heard stuff about stuck exhaust valves causing the problem, sounds expensive.
getting those O2 sensors unplugged is a serious bitch.
whats the best way to get at the front sensors? top or bottom
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post #25 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 06:36 PM
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Tell me about it. Top. Close your eyes, it helps to concentrate, no shit.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #26 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 06:41 PM
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it also keeps the pounds of dirt falling into your face out of your eyes ha ha
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post #27 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 07:43 PM
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ive only done 1 completely. 1 is completely in and 2 are out of the exhaust pipe but still attached to the multiplug. im going to do all of them tommorrow. the one i did pull out looks terrible its really black, which seems normal but its almost like some of the little vents are clogged. cant really tell though can they and do they need to be cleaned? the one im looking at is the rear right side O2 sensor from the point of view of the driver.
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post #28 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 08:15 PM
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Carb cleaner works or a propane torch will really clean em up. Red hot but I don't suggest it unless your used to metal working because you have to draw the flame away to cool it slow or else the ceramic will fracture. Don't want that. Just use carb cleaner and a wire brush for now.

97 SD - Altai Silver. Sold
94 Saturn SC2

Roverless and wandering

The three-position Lucas switch--DIM, FLICKER and OFF.

The other three switch settings--SMOKE, SMOLDER and IGNITE.


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post #29 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 10:22 PM
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silicon spray work? don't think i have carb cleaner ill take a look tomorrow though
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post #30 of 35 (permalink) Old 07-30-2010, 10:35 PM
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No silicone! The whole reason they sell sensor safe RTV silicone is because silicone will ruin a sensor. I personally use MAF cleaner since it's intended to be inducted into the engine I figure it's safe. I haven't had any problems using it on anything, but I can't tell you it is or isn't okay.
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