PAGING AAXD: Transmission Service Qs.

[01001010]

Hey Colin,

How did your trans. maintenance turn out? My truck is where yours was a few months ago. Im im at 149k now. I'll call my old dealer in Miami to see if they have any records of the last dealer maint. My fluid is somewhat brownish but clear and of all the times I've checked, I havent seen any debris in the fluid at all. Am I safe to change?

Now a question to all...what are your thoughts about changing the solid trans cooler lines to braided S.S. lines? If anyone has done this, what size fittings/lines did you use?

[Disco Mike]

Sounds like you need to do some more frequent fluid changes. As the tranny gets old and you play harder off road you have to change the fluid more frequently, like every 15,000 miles. Brown is the first indicator that the fluid is fried, if you wait till you see material in your fluid, the tranny is already gone.
I would suggest you start changing your fluid about every 1000 miles or so at least 3 time, so you can work out as much of the old fluid as possible, you might also throw in a bottle of Lucas tranny additive on your last change. Your tranny is too old for a complete flush which could kill it.
As for the cooler lines, there are alot of options, I think the best way to go is to have a set made at a shop, that way you will get a better quality hose and fittings.
Mike

[01001010]

Now, when you say flush, are you using that loosely and referring to what one would do in their garage as drain/refill procedure OR will a Professional Flush really kill my trans? I thought a good Pro. flush would clear out all the crap (if any) that's in there.

[Elemental]

Actually, the ZF in trans in Discoveries are pretty stout. The Domestic tranmissions often fail after a flush.... Yours....if it were me I woudl chance it.

[AAXD]

Hi JC, wow I really should check the forums more often. Sorry for the ridiculously late reply. My trans service went well, and only took around an hour to do the actual flush. Changine out all the lines took longer but thats because it was hot out and I had better things to do at the time. I took the chance and flushed everything out with synthetic fluid. It has been almost 10,000 miles now and everything works fine. The biggest part of the job is dropping the trans crossmember so you can remove the oil pan to access the filter. When you drain the fluid from the bottom of the trans ony a small amount will come out, don't assume thts all you'll get, I ended up using 10 quarts iirc. Once you've changed the filter(pull off old, pop on new) and buttoned everything back up the fun begins. Start by removing the return line from the top of the trans cooler, it's on the left side of the radiator at the top. Once it is removed, take a 1 gallon milk jug with the top cut off down behind the radiator and place the line into it. Have someone start the truck up and let it run until the jug is about half full, then shut it off. You have to have the timing down right or else you'll wind up with an awful mess. Once this is done you can pour the same amount of new fluid down the dipstick tube. Do this several more times until you get clean fluid out the return line, then button everything back up and let it run, shifting through all the gears to work out any air you may have trapped(hopefully none). When thats all done let the truck cool down completely, then check the fluid level as you normally would, adding as necessary. Hope this helps.

[01001010]

Thanks Colin! I really appreciate the info! I ordered a space heater so as soon as that comes in, I'll be able to comfortably work on my truck. This is my first winter up here in GA and the 40* weather isnt even the worst of it, according to the locals...haha. I can't even imagine what Alaska is like!

So does anyone have any info or insight on the conversion of solid to braided S/S trans. oil lines?

[AAXD]

Are your lines rusty? I replaced all mine last summer. They were pretty pricey. The new ones I ordered had an anodized coating on them, I primed them before installation so they'll last a little longer. Braided stainless lines will work as well, but I'd worry about having a long flexible line under the truck. If you do go that route, you will need some Adel clamps to hold the line in place. It might be cheaper to get some lines made yourself, but honestly the factory lines are probably best. You know they wil fit, though they are a pain to get in. You could ask around at hydraulic shops and see if they will make them cheaper, or get a tubing bender and make them yourself.

[01001010]

Mine arent rusty, but to get my bumper on, I had to move the cooler up about 3/4" up, which puts some stress on the line and comes in contact with one of the line retainers on the winch and the line when its fully rolled up on the drum. When I had steel cable I worried it would damage the oil line when the two made contact during spool, but now that I have synth. I worry the oil line may cause some damage to the synth line.

I've thought about putting an whole new , square/rectangular cooling unit on there and move it further up since the clutch lever makes contact with some of the fins(?) on the stock cooling unit.

[01001010]

Observe:

http://www.terratrekker.com/My%20Rov...l/DSCF0286.JPG

http://www.terratrekker.com/My%20Rov...l/DSCF0288.JPG

Since I had to move the cooler up, the line on the Pass. side is all ready pressed up against the frame cross member.

[AAXD]

My ARB bumper got in the way in the same spot as yours. I guess they were designed for the 5 speed trucks without coolers. I ended up getting out the sawzall and files and cutting notches in the bumper rails so they wouldn't rub. You really shouldn't put any stress on the lines.

[ArmyRover]

I know having my tranny cooler lines in that position would cause me some worry... I would definitely notch the bumper or move the cooler to a better position to protect the lines.