Passenger side exhaust manifold - Land Rovers Only

Badger1 · 01-21-2006, 09:04 PM

On a 97 D1 4L V8. Going to be replacing this as well as some other exhaust leaks soon. Anything I should be looking out for? Any tricks to making this job a little easier besides gallons of PBblaster and some gaskets and bolts? Seems to be a common theme on this board lately so I got a wild hair and figured I would fix it.

Thanks in advance.

Muddy Oval · 01-21-2006, 10:35 PM

on my 95, it had just loosened itself and just required retorquing. If you have to change the gasket, it's not much harder. We always replace the nuts on the manifold studs though.

Rovin4life · 01-22-2006, 08:16 AM

heat is your friend

Badger1 · 01-22-2006, 09:54 AM

I have heard horror stories about some manifold jobs from a buddy that works as a tech at a local LR dealer. Now what about using the OE locktabs or just going with some split washers for the nuts? Wondering if that might work.

Thanks for the responses guys. I would leave it alone but my truck sounds like a leafblower when I accelerate, and it just drives me nuts!

Rovin4life · 01-22-2006, 11:37 AM

If your buddy works at an LR place have him do it.

He will know the shortcuts and tricks and get it out in less time and a better job as well.

If the bolts break inside the heads your really screwed. I have seen that on tons of ford trucks.

Of course they are lucky they can get access thru the tire.

Badger1 · 01-23-2006, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by beezel

If your buddy works at an LR place have him do it.

He will know the shortcuts and tricks and get it out in less time and a better job as well.

If the bolts break inside the heads your really screwed. I have seen that on tons of ford trucks.

Of course they are lucky they can get access thru the tire.

I am not going to learn that way!

I am a hands on kind of person, and I really enjoy doing the work myself. Sometimes I may be a little apprehensive about doing a job the first time, but after I have tried something I am good to go. So I would rather do it on my own. Besides he gets his fill of rovers during the week and doesn't really like to screw with them that much outside of work! His daily driver is a Toyota truck.......maybe that should tell me something!

Nope, I will always stick with LR. Take care and thanks for the responses. I'll post something up when I am finished. Wish me good luck!

texasrover · 01-23-2006, 04:09 PM

Reading this thread I was near foaming at the bit to get this in...

"Northern Tool and Equip is having a sale on their cordless 18v right angle drill. It is compact and will get to that back rear bolt". LOL

I wished to hell I had that when I snapped the bolt off of mine. The only tool I had small enough to get back there was a small high speed air drill. It was about the size of a PPK. I snapped drill bit after drill bit because fast was the only speed on the drill.

One bolt at a time... give the PB plenty of time to penetrate... over night, all day. It will not evaporate. Take your time. For the cost... dont reuse those old bolts. May be a good investment in the future (hopefully you wont ever have to do this again).

Badger1 · 01-24-2006, 04:22 AM

Thanks for the vote of confidence texasrover!

By the way I already have a Dewalt right angle drill!!!!!!!!!!!

texasrover · 01-24-2006, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Badger1

Thanks for the vote of confidence texasrover!

By the way I already have a Dewalt right angle drill!!!!!!!!!!!

Wished you lived near by when I changed mine out...

You will do fine. You can not predict what those bolts will do when you turn on them. A broken mani-bolt from time to time is a given. Dont let it get you down if it happens. Just a little added time... that is all.

Let us know how it goes.

01-21-2006, 09:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
Badger1 Forward! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Loo-eee-ville, KY Posts: 2,154 Gallery: 1	Passenger side exhaust manifold On a 97 D1 4L V8. Going to be replacing this as well as some other exhaust leaks soon. Anything I should be looking out for? Any tricks to making this job a little easier besides gallons of PBblaster and some gaskets and bolts? Seems to be a common theme on this board lately so I got a wild hair and figured I would fix it. Thanks in advance.

01-21-2006, 10:35 PM	#2 (permalink)
Muddy Oval Otherwise known as STEVE Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Vermont Posts: 1,968 Gallery: 0	on my 95, it had just loosened itself and just required retorquing. If you have to change the gasket, it's not much harder. We always replace the nuts on the manifold studs though. __________________ 2002 Freelander 2000 DII w/CDL 1967 SIIA 109SW Former Rovers 2004 Modded "S" Disco, R.I.P. 2004 G4 Disco 2002 Modded Freelander 1995 Modded Disco 1994 D-90 #8 1993 NAS D110 1990 Range Rover County 1973 SIII 88 1972 Range Rover 2 door

01-23-2006, 04:09 PM	#7 (permalink)
texasrover Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Ft. Worth, Texas Posts: 490 Gallery: 0	Reading this thread I was near foaming at the bit to get this in... "Northern Tool and Equip is having a sale on their cordless 18v right angle drill. It is compact and will get to that back rear bolt". LOL I wished to hell I had that when I snapped the bolt off of mine. The only tool I had small enough to get back there was a small high speed air drill. It was about the size of a PPK. I snapped drill bit after drill bit because fast was the only speed on the drill. One bolt at a time... give the PB plenty of time to penetrate... over night, all day. It will not evaporate. Take your time. For the cost... dont reuse those old bolts. May be a good investment in the future (hopefully you wont ever have to do this again). __________________ That is not a leak! That is undercarriage rust inhibitor. 98 Discovery

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum Advertisement

01-22-2006, 08:16 AM	#3 (permalink)
Rovin4life Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: DOWN UNDER Posts: 1,884 Gallery: 0	heat is your friend

01-22-2006, 09:54 AM	#4 (permalink)
Badger1 Forward! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Loo-eee-ville, KY Posts: 2,154 Gallery: 1	I have heard horror stories about some manifold jobs from a buddy that works as a tech at a local LR dealer. Now what about using the OE locktabs or just going with some split washers for the nuts? Wondering if that might work. Thanks for the responses guys. I would leave it alone but my truck sounds like a leafblower when I accelerate, and it just drives me nuts!

01-22-2006, 11:37 AM	#5 (permalink)
Rovin4life Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: DOWN UNDER Posts: 1,884 Gallery: 0	If your buddy works at an LR place have him do it. He will know the shortcuts and tricks and get it out in less time and a better job as well. If the bolts break inside the heads your really screwed. I have seen that on tons of ford trucks. Of course they are lucky they can get access thru the tire.

01-24-2006, 04:22 AM	#8 (permalink)
Badger1 Forward! Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Loo-eee-ville, KY Posts: 2,154 Gallery: 1	Thanks for the vote of confidence texasrover! By the way I already have a Dewalt right angle drill!!!!!!!!!!!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)