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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
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been reading all the threads on cleaning maf,steppor motor,has helped alot{used carb/choke cleaner}.found seafoam in the spray can and put the whole can in today {in tps hose,didn't smoke alot,so I guess I;m clean}I took the plenum hose off and there was carbon on it so cleaned with carb cleaner.does that piece come out of the valve cover?don't want to break anything and have it fall into the valve assembly!btw,seafoam in an aerosol can
brilliant.does this plug in the valve pipe come out and what's the best way to remove and clean.can I get a replacement locally,hoses are good.appreciate all the great info,truck runs a whole lot better!! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,290
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You don't use the spray version of sea foam when trying to do an induction cleaning. By 3 bottles, one for the gas tank, one for the crank case with a fresh oil change and the other can get sucked slowly over about 2 minutes into the engine, then shut it down for 30 minute. After 30 minutes be prepared to make 20 minutews of smoke and don't stop till the engine quits smoking.
By the way, the SaeFoam sprat is good to use to clean the throttle body. Mike |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
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It took me awhile to empty the can and while it didn't billow smoke there still was some so I think it helped,I could tell by the idle almost stalling so I let up and then resumed spraying .what about the pcv,do I just yank that thing out,clean and put back?this one's for you dmike
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 18
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At least the landie got her first taste of seafoam,I did let her soak for a good 1/2 hour.next time I'll use the bottle {although I use similar products to de-carb my outboards and they all work well}can you get replacement pcv valve's locally for our trucks {Iasked dis/auto and they couldn't help}Excellent info any diy'er can really improve performance on their truck just by reading all these good threads.thanks again dmike
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Beaumont, Texas
Posts: 781
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Quote:
When I change oil, it doesn't take long for the oil to get darker. I do run synthethic oil through it as well. Thanks for any info.
__________________
Eric The Red 93 Range Rover Classic ![]() We will never "arrive" so the goal is to keep moving forward on our journey so we can periodically declare, "I am not what I want to be, but I am not what I used to be!" 96 DISCO SE7 5-SPEED SOLD ![]() ....okay couldn't live without a disco!96 DISCO SD 5-SPEED -ARB Bumper -OME 2" Lift -2" spacers -Safari snorkel -15" steelies
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#8 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
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I would say to leave the SeaFoam in the crank case till it gets dark, which may only take 1000 miles.
If you have a problem with dirty oil, consider flushing the engine before your next oil change. There are many products at the parts store to do this with, most are a quart and take 10 minutes of idling to di their job. For my driving, I flush my engine every 10,000 miles, it then stays cleaner alot longer. Mike |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 131
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DiscoMike..
Is seafoam safe to use in my cast aluminum block (or are all LR blocks aluminum)? Thanks.
__________________
Wade Location: Texas Last edited by wade : 04-27-2006 at 07:28 PM. |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 433
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Gentlemen: exactly where do you pour that 3rd can of SeaFoam into the engine? I've used 'combustion chamber cleaner' on carb engines but never on a FI engine... On carb engines, I usually pour it directly down the carb while the Mrs. keeps her going. At the 3/4 mark of the can, I pour it in fast and kill the engine, then wait 20 minutes and then restart.
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
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Quote:
Mike |
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