Pics!

[Dan Erickson]

Yea I got that same cam. In fact, I belive it was the very first one.

Not sure about doing anything like that to the valve guides, but I will talk to Mark about the heads. I will be doing another engine for my daughter here pretty soon.

I think the number for the springs was the RV-911 as shown on the D&D website, but I can double check later.

http://www.aluminumv8.com/catalogpag...components.htm

Looking back, I'm not sure I really needed to use the heavy springs.

Peace,

Dan

[Disco 1]

Originally Posted by Dan Erickson

Looking to shave a few 10ths off your 1/4 mile time?

haha yep

Originally Posted by Dan Erickson

Man that sucks about your motor. Not sure you had to dig in so far without a little more diagnostics first, but since you are in this far anyway, you may as well make the most of it and do the whole job right.

yeh but i didnt know where to go, two places had told me for sure the block was shot and so i was digging into a "dead" and "worthless" engine to see the carnage. but then i saw none.

can i read the codes somewhere? or would there be codes for this? my friend said on his plymouth acclaim he could turn the key all the way forward then all the way back, then repeat twice and the check engine light would flash the nembers for the code, as in two flashes then pause then three flashes and so on to show 23.... he also said doing the same thing in his j**p made the codes appear on the odometer.

and yeah it stinks being without my ride for so long.

while everythings apart and open, what are the thoughts on header insulation wrap, the concept sounds good. lower temp in engine bay and higher temp for exhaust means faster flowing exhaust. it would be a lot easier to wrap that stuff around the headers when the bulk of the engine isnt in the way of getting to them

[Dan Erickson]

I would be interested to know what the codes were. Autozone will read them for free, but I guess you would need a tow for that (unless they make house calls ).

I think you can buy them at most auto type stores, but I don't think they will read Rover specific codes (not sure how many that might be). It may be worth it to give it a try.

If it were a D2, I could ship my Rovacom down to you, but the D1 module would be like $280 to buy so...

Sorry, but I don't know anything about the header wraps.

[Disco 1]

called D&D to ask for prices on ported heads for my truck and he told me he did not suggest porting the heads on a rover 4.0 v8 because they already flowed good and i would never feel the diference, he said what would give more power was the performance cam, and if i needed to replace the block go with a 4.6 cause i could use everything else i had and it would match up to the 4.6

oh and my heads are warped, they will be going to the shop on monday

parts:
head gaskets
intake manifold gaskets
exhaust manifold gaskets
valve cover gaskets
front cover gasket
water pump gasket
thermostat gasket
oil pan gasket
8 bosch plat plugs
thermostat
timing chain
belt
radiator hoses
overflow box

price: $414.30

shop wants $300 to do the heads

should i go with the 258 or the 260 for the cam? ($175)

thats about it, ill keep ya updated, thanks as usual

[Disco 1]

oh, and can anyone identify what this hose might be called (the one that looks like it has a cut in it) so i can know what to order on roverparts.com cause on there they dont give descriptions and many look very similar.

[Disco 1]

can anyone help on the hose question? i want to order the parts today if possible and id like to order them all together since i need them all to make it work.

[01001010]

Its a valve cover breather hose. You can get some at any auto parts store. I made mine of sylicone. My rubber one deteriorated when I was taking it off

[01001010]

BTW...i had the SAME cut in mine....weird!

[Disco 1]

haha thats wierd. sounds like thatl be cheaper. thank man. appreciate it

[Hank]

Nathan at discount british parts can get anythink at about the best prices.

[Capt. Ron]

Disco1;
Keep us posted. You're making me all warm and fuzzy about doing mine. I just can't stomach the thought of it being down during the rebuild. Damn, less that a grand. Looks like the gods like you.

[Disco 1]

will do capt. ron, im back at school so my dad took the heads to the shop today but their head guy is out till friday cause of a death in the family, so my dad went to the other place recomended to us and they will resurface them and do all that valve jazz and such for $250 so that saves $50. and im ot buying the cam cause the whole point of this project was to make my truck run again and basically i dont need that to make it run cause my cam is fine, but i am purchasing a sun visor retainer clip and beige cup holders. so i think total price now is like right under $750 or something like that, im in the library now and i dont know how to make this mac add more tabs for firefox, so ill wait till i get back to my room and try to get the exact total.

can anyone give an educated estimate of how long it might take me to put all this back together? i realize it depends on the person and you dont know me but just give it a guess cause i am hoping to be done in one weekend but if there is a strong belief that that is not possible, then i will be going to a football game and taking up most of my saturday. basically ill skip the game if i can finish this weekend, but if i skip the game and dont finish ill just lose all around. thanks as usual guys!

[Capt. Ron]

OOOOHH! That sun visor retainer clip and those cup holders will make it faaaaast! It'll take three times as long to put it back together as it took to take it apart. Seriously, you might as well add some life and muscle with the cam. If it's that cheap... You said you can't have a car on campus your first year anyway right? Take another week and git-er-done!

[Dan Erickson]

You may really want to consider replacing the cam while your in that deep.

[01001010]

Yeah man...do some more research and you'll see how easily the stock ones wear out...It's nice to know you have the power right when you need it.