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Old 01-19-2010, 03:55 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default plenum hose to distributor

just noticed that the distributor vacuum hose, the hose that connects from the top the plenum chamber to the distributor vacuum is missing, does anyone know if it's alright to drive as is or will this cause any problems.

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Old 01-19-2010, 06:09 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I don't think it will do severe damage, but your truck will run a lot better with it connected.

In general, as you step on the gas for more power, your vacuum drops allowing the dist to advance your timing giving you more power. (and better mpg)

probably $2-$3 at the hardware store.

luck,greg
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Old 01-20-2010, 03:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Go to your local parts store and pick up a piece of vacuum tubing- they will have it in bulk. This controls your ignition advance/ ignition timing. Besides the huge vacuum leak, running without it can cause detonation and unnecessary wear on the engine.
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Old 01-20-2010, 08:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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thanks, i'll look for a suitable replacement.
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Old 01-22-2010, 06:03 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Is there a drawing anywhere that shows all the vacuum hoses? I've looked in the file 95_96_Disco1_Manual.pdf, but there really isn't a section on vacuum hoses. I'm pretty sure that all of my vacuum hoses are screwed up.


I have the same problem as the OP, but there is a vacuum line attached to my distributer, but not the plenum. It goes up and over the plenum and attaches to a "T" behind the plenum.

Will get pictures tonight to show.

Could this explain my 11 MPG?
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Here are some pictures of my engine compartment (yeah, I know my wires are messy, I just haven't had a chance to replace them yet, I have two houses, and can't sell one, so all my discretionary funds are going to that).








So, anyone help with how these hoses are supposed to be run?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:08 PM   #7 (permalink)
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this is where the hose from the plenum to the distributor vacuum goes



i don't know about the other hose.
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Old 01-22-2010, 08:38 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i'm looking at the haynes manual and that hose you have connected to the back of the distributor vacuum should not be there, the manual indicates there should be nothing connected there.

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Old 01-22-2010, 08:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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you have some strange connection here, where i've circled in red, that hose coming out of the pressure regulator goes to the back of the plenum chamber as i've indicated in blue. lol, i'm looking at your hoses and i think i know what happened that hose from the distributor vacuum reconnect to that forward port and that "T" connection separate that and attached the hose to the top of the plenum chamber, the other smaller hose connect to the pressure regulator. I think, i hope!!!! i'm not 100%!!!

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Old 01-23-2010, 03:36 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Thanks. I took the T off, and plugged the hose that ran around the back of the engine into the fuel pressure regulator. Then I took the hose off of the wrong part of the distributer, and hooked it to the correct one, and then connected the other end to the top of the plenum. Truck seems to run a bit smoother, we will see if anything else happens from it.
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:46 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The fuel rail pressure regulator hose goes directly to the short nipple below the idle stepper motor bypass hose nipple on the back of the plenium, hard to find but important and MUST BE AIR TIGHT FOR THE PROPER VACUUM SIGNAL TO THE FUEL REGULATOR. A must check as the fuel rail pressure will be screwed up. When the regulator screws up you'll know big time. BTW those Lucas injectors suck, Bosch disc 4 hole vs single squirt atomize way better called a newer design after these Lucas injectors. This off late 351 Ford engines after flushing and flow balance checking to within 0.4% a set of 8. This took 42 to find a balanced flow set with a PWM and adjustable Hz controller with ultrasonic cleaning first at my home shop. The dizzy nipple on the far side away from the dizzy connects directly to the nipple on top of the plenium chamber top. The nipple near the dizzy just add a cap to keep dirt and crap out. I would bet you a 95% chance the vacuum advance unit is also shot and leaking and your not knowing it. Give the hose the suction check with your tongue as a stopper and see if it holds a vacuum. I'll take my stout bier now thank you please. That nipple on top of the plenium is not a huge vacuum leak as posted above,it's ahead of the throttle plate with no vacuum applied at idle (wow replies) it steps down to a pin hole of only 0.021" just ahead of the throttle butterfly. At idle until the butterfly moves app 1/8" before any vacuum signal begins to pull on the vacuum advance unit. With that small 0.021" restriction hole for a slow vacuum advance response it doesn't take much of a vacuum advance unit failure for this signal to be lost. The Stealers want $155 for that POS item that lasts from 13-17 months on average at best and slowly start leaking and fail without you knowing it. I went thru 3 of them before waking up. Better units rebuilt with better materials inside come from Oz. My last one lasted 7 years besides have 4 degrees more advance than the California spec crap units. I installed another one from Oz last week. First one was $75 USD shipping included, $125 today. I also opened up the vacuum signal at the plenium by 2 1/2 times more cross sectional area this quickened up the advance and throttle response. Other machined trick intake items just added with also great results. I also bet with your many miles the throttle plate isn't at 90 degrees from the intake inlets machined surface measurement point but over center so your closing throttle before going open again, it should be within 0.019" across the butterfly face. When was the last time the centrifugal advance was cleaned and greased? Minor items owning a dizzy motor but far cheaper and adjustable than coil pack failure replacements plus you can change the advance curve and timing. This is what woke up my 5 speed besides repositioning the TPS to the RPI chip. I'm a 4.6 litre with a dizzy. The other nipple off the left side of the ram tube base goes to a "T" that connects below the TPS and the oil vapor seperator on the right front valve cover. Don't forget to connect the hose from the rear of the left valve cover to the top air filter cover nipple pointed at the left fender. On the right ram tube base the rear nipple with a vacuum check valve to the brake booster, forward or center nipple to the carbon canister near right fender, front plugged off a vacuum test port. This on 95 with the older OB1 3.9 motors accessories on a 4.6 shortblock. I forgot you may of replaced the Rover ignition wires, good choice, I run (RIP) Crane Cams 50 ohm per/ft Fire Wires that alone gave me more spark energy at the plugs.
Now I just bump the starter hot or stone cold not even hearing one cylinder over compression it lights off instantly.
In the IAC bypass hose I added a mini revolver cylinder looking plug with a washer with five 1/8" holes with a center locking screw to make a adjustable restriction for the cold start fast idle limit of 875 rpms, less cold engine wear plus a preoiler I added to the new motor. I start cold or after a overnight oil drain with a dry 7" long filter with a pressurized motor of 26 psi oil pressure before starting. Port match the intake and cast iron exhaust, Borla exhaust with high flow cats it will wake up plus gain in mpg. Oh a brass slug with a 1/16" hole to the plate below the throttle plate plenium for a cooler intake air charge. I run a cold ram air intake also. Nuff rambling off hope this gets you started. Cheers.
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Old 01-25-2010, 06:52 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The truck ran much smoother on the way into work this morning, plus I noticed that the RPM's were considerably lower for most of my trip (about 500). That should really help with the fuel economy. Time will tell, just filled up late last week.

Thanks to living in Cincinnati, I can actually say that when I drive to work, I go uphill both ways . (In the morning, I descend Winton Ave Hill, and then ascend Clifton Ave hill, and reverse on the way home). Really felt like I had much more power then before.
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Old 01-27-2010, 09:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the vac advance is shot how is it replaced?
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Old 04-09-2010, 06:35 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Speaking of more vacuum line problems.....

I noticed when I did my tune up that there is a line running from the airbox to the rear of the driver's side valve cover. But everywhere I look in manuals says that there should be a small air filter on the valve cover, not a vacuum line.

So if this isn't supposed to be connected here, where is the airbox line supposed to be? And am I supposed to have the filter on that valve cover port?




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Old 04-09-2010, 09:04 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnsoax View Post
Speaking of more vacuum line problems.....

I noticed when I did my tune up that there is a line running from the airbox to the rear of the driver's side valve cover. But everywhere I look in manuals says that there should be a small air filter on the valve cover, not a vacuum line.

The filters were dropped in '94 for the Disco and '95 for the RRC.

Hook the hose to the valve cover.
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