Well this weekend is it, I'm finally upgrading the rear propshaft on my Disco. Thanks for the nice weather Nature...
Before I start unbolting stuff though there's a few things I'm curious about:
1-Which way does the propshaft itself go and does it matter?
2-When I replace the drive flange, should I expect some fluid loss from the differential and be ready to replace the fluid while I'm under there?
3-I measured the holes and it looks like the bolts needed are 3/8" x 1-1/2". I can't seem to find the actual size in my Rover books or on any site so if anybody could confirm or deny that info...
Slip joint goes rearmost. What propshaft are you using? Did you buy a kit from someone? They should have provided fixing hardware, or at the least told you what you need.
Take the input flange to the hardware store and match them.
You'll probably get some fluid loss, but shouldn't be much, unless you replace the seal too, which would probably be a good idea.
If you don't have a seal, I have a seal and nyloc nut (which should be replaced too) kit for the Rover diffs. $20.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
Don't go to the hardware store to buy the bolts as they must be high tensile and you are unlikely to get the exact size. They will be the same size as the bolts in the front prop shaft.
The main fluid level is below the level of the seal. You may get a very slight leak from any oil trapped up near the flange, but you should not need to top up any oil.
A new seal will be a good idea with the new flange.
Actually, after focusing and thinking about it, I was right the first time. But I have a GBR rear shaft. The stock shaft has the slip joint closest to the transfer case. GBR and Tom Woods they are closest to the diff.
So which do you have Ben?
Quote:
Don't go to the hardware store to buy the bolts as they must be high tensile and you are unlikely to get the exact size.
I guess we have better hardware stores here in the US. I don't consider the "big box" places hardware stores.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
Last edited by antichrist : 04-17-2008 at 10:02 AM.
I wish I had a GBR shaft but it's just a "kit" from a RRC. I guess I'll pull one of the bolts from the front and go bolt hunting Saturday morning!
You have to make sure that the threaded and unthreaded sections of the bolts you buy are correct. I am sure they are not your standard ratios (thread to non-thread) and you are unlikely to find them at a hardware store.
The stock shaft has the slip joint closest to the transfer case. GBR and Tom Woods they are closest to the diff.
It doesn't have anything to do with brand, it has to do with keeping the spline out of the mud and dirt and stopping it being hit by rocks. The only reason the front goes the opposite way around is due to clearance issues near the transfer case.
It doesn't have anything to do with brand, it has to do with keeping the spline out of the mud and dirt and stopping it being hit by rocks. The only reason the front goes the opposite way around is due to clearance issues near the transfer case.
Christ...so intent on contradicting everything I say, you can't get your head out of your ass so you can see. Need me to post some photographs?
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
Christ...so intent on contradicting everything I say, you can't get your head out of your ass so you can see. Need me to post some photographs?
While you keep on telling people the wrong thing, I will keep on contradicting you.
So you are going to produce some photos with a prop shaft fitted the wrong way around. What will that prove.
I gave the reason for the way they are fitted. You just continue to make stupid statements with nothing to back them up. Tell us the reason why you would fit the prop shaft with the spline closest to the ground and in a vulnerable position. I want to understand your logic. But of course you will not provide an answer, you never do.
To just continue to live up to your user ID in being the false teacher.
I wish I had a GBR shaft but it's just a "kit" from a RRC.
Ah, ok. Yes, slip joint closest to the gearbox then. What you have is essentially what the GBR "basic" conversion is. Bill takes the rotoflex propshafts, hacks off the rotoflex coupling and welds on a yoke for a "normal" u-joint.
BTW, you want fine thread grade 8's.
I don't know what p76 is telling you, he's so thick headed I decided to put him on ignore.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
I don't know what p76 is telling you, he's so thick headed I decided to put him on ignore.
What I am trying to tell him is that a bolt from the hardware store will have the threaded part where it passes through the flange. The thread will collapse with the force of the drive and could cause the connection to come lose. The bolt must have the unthreaded portion nearly through both flanges. You might have to get a longer bolt to get the unthreaded section the right length and then cut it down to the right length
If you have me on ignore, stop quoting me. I am becoming a firm believer that you are the Antichrist.
I wish I had a GBR shaft but it's just a "kit" from a RRC.
I was thinking on the drive in to work about it being a kit from a RRC. That makes me think it's a used propshaft. If it is, and it has grease fittings on the u-joints, before you install it be sure to grease both u-joints. You want grease to come out from around all 4 seals on the joint. Also, compress the shaft and grease the slip joint if there's a fitting. If there isn't one, there should be a plug you can remove to fit one.
If it's a used shaft with no grease fittings on the u-joints, if I were doing it I'd replace the u-joints with greaseable ones before installing it.
If I recall correctly it takes 1300 series (Neapco 1-0005, Spicer 5-4x or Precision 344) u-joints. You can tell for sure by measuring. If the outside cap to cap measurement is 2.938" they are the 1300 series. The other size u-joints used on Rovers have a cap to cap measurement of 3.219".
If you put in new ones be sure to grease them well (grease coming from all for seals) after installation. The grease that comes in them is only to hold the needle bearings in, not for in service use. Then grease them every oil change.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
If you put in new ones be sure to grease them well (grease coming from all for seals) after installation. The grease that comes in them is only to hold the needle bearings in, not for in service use. Then grease them every oil change.
Do you think that the reason you have to grease them so often is that you have stuffed the seals on them by forcing grease out of the ends. That is, the seals are there to stop crap getting in the bearings, if you force grease out of them it forces the seal away from the cap. Once you have done this it allows the crap into the bearings. You just keep on coming up with this really good advice. I just hope that not too many actually listen to you.
Well the shaft and the u-joints do have grease nipples and I was planning on greasing em up before the install but how do I know, short of taking them apart, if they're greased properly?
Well the shaft and the u-joints do have grease nipples and I was planning on greasing em up before the install but how do I know, short of taking them apart, if they're greased properly?
Like I said, purge the old grease, meaning you see it (the fresh grease) coming out from around the seals. This is the only way to know that all 4 journals are getting new grease, and that the old "dirty" grease is out.
If it's not coming from around all 4 seals one or more grease passages are blocked. For as cheap as the u-joints are, if that's the case, I would just replace it.
I'm attaching the relevant section from the Spicer manual on greasing them. (I've seen a lot of misinformation about it on various forums)
You'll notice that it says every 5-8,000 miles, but I tell people "every oil change" so it just becomes habit, rather than having to remember, or take notes, when you did it last. Obviously, if you're off-roading a lot in water or muck, you want to do it more often.
One last thing, you must lube them. If you don't do it properly, you're better off with sealed u-joints.
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
You want grease to come out from around all 4 seals on the joint.
grease them well (grease coming from all for seals) after installation.
There is a little difference between grease coming out the seals and it being visible. The spicer instructions are telling you to STOP once you get SIGHT of any grease. They are not telling you to blow the seals by forcing grease out. You stated that you use to be a mechanic, what bullshit.
Why not just pull the seals off before you fit the joint.
What is the reason in general for this conversion?
__________________
Anthony
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2- Sold in Texas before moving to cold country
1995 Discovery 1 RIP (Evil daughter abuse)
1995 Discovery 1
The reason I'm doing the conversion is because of the lift. I'm running about 5" right now and proably more like 6" by the end of the summer. A u-joint will help with the driveline angle and the rotoflex can get damaged on the trail more easily that a u-joint propshaft.
Other than that, no real reason. Most Discos, even with 2-3" lifts go their whole lives with the rubber donut on their rear ends and live long, happy lives
__________________
Anthony
2002 Land Rover Discovery 2- Sold in Texas before moving to cold country
1995 Discovery 1 RIP (Evil daughter abuse)
1995 Discovery 1
The reason I'm doing the conversion is because of the lift. I'm running about 5" right now and proably more like 6" by the end of the summer. A u-joint will help with the driveline angle and the rotoflex can get damaged on the trail more easily that a u-joint propshaft.
I didn't realize you had that much lift. I don't know how much research you've done, but quite a few people report excessive driveline vibe with that much lift without going to a GBR or TW double cardan propshaft. YMMV
__________________
Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA
Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.
62 88 reg
67 NADA x2
74 Air Portable - The Antichrist (tag 6A666)
95 D1
95 D90
Oddly enough, I've gotten no vibration whatsoever from the lift versus when the truck was stock. I was prepared for the worst and I gotta say I'm pleasantly surprised by the way it handles. I'm still going ahead with the prop shaft change and eventually the radius and trailing arm upgrades since this is a dedicated trail truck
Rear propshaft upgrade
Christ...so intent on contradicting everything I say, you can't get your head out of your ass so you can see. Need me to post some photographs?
