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Old 05-02-2008, 04:22 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Replaced TPS and hoses, still Engine light and idle probs

We've had trouble with the idling ever since we had the Transfer case replaced almost 2 yrs ago. The speedo/odometer died and we replaced the speed sensor to make the speedo work again and it still doesn't work with the new speed sensor.
To fix the idle problem we replaced the throttle position sensor and verified it works and the vacuum lines all around it were replaced b/c they were split and cracked. The engine light turned off when we pulled the batt and then it came back on again after we drove it 5 mins.- and the RPMs still drop when we slow down suddenly or take a slow turn and it is still shutting off just like someone pulled the plug. It doesn't sputter or anything, the RPMs just drop like a tank until it just shuts off. What else in the world could this be?! We thought the TPS replacement would fix this idle problem. Could this be tied to the replacement Transfer Case since it happened around the same time?
The last thing I am thinking, is I used to be able to just turn the key and have her start. Lately, I have had to turn the key and wait until. the fuel pump stops humming and THEN turn it over to start.
Also, to put a weird spin on it, now the area around the gear shifter (automatic) is getting fire hot! I put my finger on where the P R D N etc are and it was extremely hot! What is happening?!!
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Old 05-03-2008, 02:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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two things, the battery is dead or not charging and I suspect the belt was installed incorrectly causing the issue.

is your Srs light on and blinking?
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:15 AM   #3 (permalink)
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What year is your DI? If it is pre-1996 it is equipped with an OBDI reader under the passenger seat. If it is a 1996 or newer, it has an OBDII port above the pedal assembly under the steering column. Get the codes read at your local Auto Zone or similar shop. Once you have the codes do a quick search of the web to determine what is going on with your engine. If you still need help, post what you have found here and I am sure there are a number of people who will be able to give you further insight into how you should proceed.
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Old 05-04-2008, 02:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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We did get a code and it's been the same ever since- code 48 which we were told by another user that it was an idle problem which makes sense.
The battery is running fine, and the throttle position sensor looked like it was working properly.
The problem is , or I guess one of the main questions is: If the idle was bad and we kept stalling and the RPMs would drop when we slowed down too quickly and we replaced the Throttle Position Sensor and the vacuum hoses.. what ELSE would be causing this idle problem? I thought maybe the ECU would need me to run around a couple hundred miles or so to re-teach it what to do but that didn't seem to help at all. We were told over and over the TPS was causing the idle to drop and just cut out like someone just pulled the plug on her, but when we put in a brand new one at $150 it didn't fix anything!
Yes, the SRS light has been on since we bought her 2 1/2 years ago. They just said it was because it hit the certain miles and needed to be inspected. It does blink sometimes, sometimes not- but what would that have to do with the idle though?
We're just about to blow a few hundred at the shop to just see what the heck is going on with her- but we really don't have it to blow!
So, we put in a new TPS and the idle is still bad- what else can we look at for the cause?
We asked about the VSS because the speedo isn't working either, but we were told the Disco Is didn't have the speed sensor and ecu linked together- but somehow I feel that can't be true because the system doesn't seem to know when we're about to come to an idle or when to give it the right amount of gas at the right time! We put in a new speed sensor and the speedo still isn't working!
Any bites here?!! Any words of wisdom for this idle/stalling problem? Also we just replaced the fuel filter, spark plugs and wires.
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Old 05-04-2008, 04:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Clean the stepper motor (idle air control valve), see if that helps.
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Old 05-04-2008, 05:45 PM   #6 (permalink)
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1) I guess it's a 1994 or 1995 DI given the two digit codes.
2) The TPS seldom, if ever, affects the engine at idle. It usually show itself with a flat or dead spot at higher rpms. Thus, changing the TPS was never going to get you the desired results.
3) Listen to jhmover and clean your stepper motor or IACV as some may call it. You can even replace the stepper motor with a new one from Auto Zone for less than $40. Request an IACV from a late 1980's Chevy Astro Van.
4) It wouldn't hurt and could help to remove the IACV housing (the part the the IACV screws into). It probably needs a good cleaning as much as the IACV does.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree about the stepper motor. I would try to clean it and see if it helps at all. If you do replace it take Paul's advice the part for the van is much cheaper then the LR part.

If you hold the gas pedal down does it stay running? I know when the IACV went on one of my other cars the only way I could keep it from stalling was if I held the gas pedal down some.

If cleaning/replacing the stepper (IACV) doesn't fix things, I would check to see what kind of fuel pressure you have and continue testing from there.
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Old 05-04-2008, 10:46 PM   #8 (permalink)
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From JE Robison's site:

Code 48 - Stepper motor
Check base idle speed as follows:
First remove and clean the idle motor and the port it screws into. Clean the throttle body as well.
On the top of the throttle body you will see a hole (possibly covered by an anti tamper plug) for the base idle adjuster.
Remove the air bypass hose from the throttle body, which will cause the engine to speed up to 2500rpm or so. Unplug the connector to the idle motor after 5 seconds then reconnect the hose.
Squeeze the hose shut with needle nose vise grips and adjust the base idle using an allen wrench to give an idle speed of 6-700rpm. Get the lowest speed you can that gives smooth running and does not stall when blipping the throttle. Screw in for slower idle, out for faster idle.
Reconnect the idle stepper and remove the vise grip and you should be done.
In addition, refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure. Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:12 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thank you , Thank you , Thank you
No one mentioned the stepper motor- The only thing they said was it had an idle problem....that will be our next step. Sorry, I thought I mentioned it is a Disco I - 1994.
We'll try this out and see how it goes!
Thanks again!
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Old 05-05-2008, 05:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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who actually told you that it was going off cause it needed replacement.

If it wasn't a dealer seriously, you made a completely foolish mistake. Going to a guy that thinks he knows LRs is just foolish.

If he doesnt know the system then dont back to them.

take a picture of your serp belt. I want to see if its installed correctly?
Not to mention any other issues they may have missed.
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:00 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Honestly- it was quite a few, at least 5, people on forums that said that she is stalling b/c of a bad TPS. It sounded rational. There were quite a few cracks in the vacuum hoses that we replaced too. One of the hoses wasn't even connected at one point. The main thing is when we come off the highway, she always falls to the bottom on the RPMs- it just goes from 2-3 all the way down to turning off immediately without warning. When we come to a sudden stop, the RPMs fall quickly until it stalls. I have to trick it and hit the gas a few times hard when turning so that she doesn't stall. Sometimes that works- sometimes it doesn't.
The Stepper Motor for the Astro isn't as easy to find after all!
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Old 05-05-2008, 09:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I'll get a pic of the belt in the morning. not sure how in the world that would have been put on wrong. Actually the dealer must have been the last to touch it 1 1/2 yrs ago when they replaced the transfer case.
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Old 05-06-2008, 08:50 AM   #13 (permalink)
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oh great, a service writer must have said something that didnt know squat.

when you leave the lights on hte battery drains and the low voltage light on the srs goes off. You need the grey connector hooked up to testbook to turn it off.
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Old 05-06-2008, 09:08 AM   #14 (permalink)
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That is okay- we've learned a lesson- but when so many people were saying the TPS needed changed we just did it. We would have replaced it eventually anyways because we're changing out a lot of things on her to get her back to running nicely again. She only has about 110k on her, wouldn't know b/c the new speed sensor we put in didn't fix the speedo to make it work again!
Anyhow, do you recommend going to a LR dealer to get the SRS light turned off or is there another way to accomplish this? I know nothing about the SRS system except for the light is always flashing in my face....
Thanks again
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Old 05-06-2008, 01:24 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rovin4life View Post
who actually told you that it was going off cause it needed replacement.

If it wasn't a dealer seriously, you made a completely foolish mistake. Going to a guy that thinks he knows LRs is just foolish.

If he doesnt know the system then dont back to them.

take a picture of your serp belt. I want to see if its installed correctly?
Not to mention any other issues they may have missed.
Dude it's not his belt nor is it his battery that is causing his running issue. he is getting a code for the stepper motor.

take care of the stepper motor and you should be fine.
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Old 05-06-2008, 01:45 PM   #16 (permalink)
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actually I am a woman- but thanks so much for all your help on here!
I just bought the new stepper motor for $33 at advance auto for the v6 astro van. The one for my Disco was about $185. Now, we'll see if it works once I get it in there.
Thanks again!
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Old 05-07-2008, 05:50 AM   #17 (permalink)
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A code 48 is set when the computer wants to see a Idle speed and for whatever cannot get it.

This can be a Iac motor. Or Unmetered air getting in the intake, or even a stuck timing advance can cause it. The TPS was a waste of money if your diag proceedure for this concern is Swaptronics.


A $38 high failure part is a good start but not the only cause.

Be advised. On a 95 Disco, you can clear the code by pulling the "Fuel Injector" fuse for 10 second and reinstalling. This fuse is located in the underhood fuse block.
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:33 PM   #18 (permalink)
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So what is the outcome after replacing the steeper motor?
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Old 05-10-2008, 01:54 PM   #19 (permalink)
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we did just now put it in and pull the fuel injector/pump fuses- it seems to be okay besides the #02 the display is showing up. It was #48 for the idle and now the code 02 is showing. that is why we just jumped on here to see what is wrong with her now!
The Check Engine light is off for the moment- but the speed sensor isn't working so I'm not sure if the light will come back on for that.
We are now looking for a new muffler- she cracked all the way around just after the clamp, after the cats- thank God- and now my shifter area is getting really hot. We looked for the shield and couldn't find one - i thought it was supposed to be above the front muffler area and it isn't but we've never had a heat problem before the muffler went bad.
So, we're going to check code 02 and see what that's all about.
I'll post again after we see if the new stepper motor fixed the stalling problem. It only stalled when i was coming to a quick stop and right off the highways too. fingers crossed!
thanks again to all for the help!
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:20 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
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we did just now put it in and pull the fuel injector/pump fuses- it seems to be okay besides the #02 the display is showing up. It was #48 for the idle and now the code 02 is showing. that is why we just jumped on here to see what is wrong with her now!
The Check Engine light is off for the moment- but the speed sensor isn't working so I'm not sure if the light will come back on for that.
We are now looking for a new muffler- she cracked all the way around just after the clamp, after the cats- thank God- and now my shifter area is getting really hot. We looked for the shield and couldn't find one - i thought it was supposed to be above the front muffler area and it isn't but we've never had a heat problem before the muffler went bad.
So, we're going to check code 02 and see what that's all about.
I'll post again after we see if the new stepper motor fixed the stalling problem. It only stalled when i was coming to a quick stop and right off the highways too. fingers crossed!
thanks again to all for the help!
Code 02: Battery Recently Disconnected

Code 02 indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has just been reconnected. Switch the ignition switch to position II to clear code 02.
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:37 PM   #21 (permalink)
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ok- did that and now there are no codes at all- so far.
i will update to when we see if that Astro van's AICV worked!
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Old 05-10-2008, 07:37 PM   #22 (permalink)
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only the dealer can clear the code for the SRS.

you need testbook plus a special adaptor that hooks to the system and the battery.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:36 PM   #23 (permalink)
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so, basically the SRS just needs inspected?
The last 'S' is flashing now and then. It has been going on for at least the 2 1/2 to 3 years we've had her!
I would hate to have to pay the dealer hundreds basically to just turn out a light that has always been there- unless it really is a good idea to do so
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:51 AM   #24 (permalink)
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As I understand it, the SRS (airbag) light comes on after 10 years, regardless. It then has to be inspected by a dealer and if any parts are defective, those need to be replaced. If your truck is older than 10 years, it doesn't mean that anything is broken, it just means it is time for an inspection. That is what I understand.
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Old 05-11-2008, 11:09 AM   #25 (permalink)
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As I understand it, the SRS (airbag) light comes on after 10 years, regardless. It then has to be inspected by a dealer and if any parts are defective, those need to be replaced. If your truck is older than 10 years, it doesn't mean that anything is broken, it just means it is time for an inspection. That is what I understand.
No, the system comes on when it sees a problem. It lights up for a second to do a self check at startup, if there is a problem like a loose connection or excessive resistance or low battery voltage the light will activate.

To clear the light the dealer hooks up a special connector to testbook to read the codes and then they can clear them to see if they come back. Takes only .3 nothing more. If it comes back well then the diagnosis needs to be done.
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