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Old 06-14-2006, 05:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Rust!!!

So where do some of you have rust, where are popular places on D1s for rust and how can i go about fixing all the rust?
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Old 06-14-2006, 06:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Rear door striker pin area... REALLY common. Then anywhere else underneath. Around the Alpine windows on the roof too.
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Old 06-14-2006, 06:58 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 96owner
So where do some of you have rust, where are popular places on D1s for rust and how can i go about fixing all the rust?
On my 98 DI I have some above the rear wheelarches (I'm sure it's below too). & also where there were rear lamp guards fitted (drilled oem).. The lamp guards rusted & rust made its way to the suround of my lights. Nothing too bad.. I am lucky enough to not need a grinder to get it off.. wire brush.. a good rust proofing primer & then the paint. Good areas to check are the bottoms of all the doors & lift the carpet up in the footwells, rear cargo floor, rear bumper, rear door. You might notice rust likes to form on the weld in some spots. Just read a new thread on here regarding rust on the roof on DIs. & there is a good article on rust treatment (more on what to avoid.. but still informative) by Mr. Robison in the latest issue of LRM.
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:28 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron98Disco
On my 98 DI I have some above the rear wheelarches (I'm sure it's below too). & also where there were rear lamp guards fitted (drilled oem).. The lamp guards rusted & rust made its way to the suround of my lights. Nothing too bad.. I am lucky enough to not need a grinder to get it off.. wire brush.. a good rust proofing primer & then the paint. Good areas to check are the bottoms of all the doors & lift the carpet up in the footwells, rear cargo floor, rear bumper, rear door. You might notice rust likes to form on the weld in some spots. Just read a new thread on here regarding rust on the roof on DIs. & there is a good article on rust treatment (more on what to avoid.. but still informative) by Mr. Robison in the latest issue of LRM.
Not trying to be funny but do you actually own a Land Rover???

The reason I ask is you are describing rust where it is totally and physically impossible to get.

This is because most of the body work is aluminium, and aluminium does not rust, sure it will still corrode or oxidise but not rust. Electrolosis is a common problem where aluminium and steel components are touching.
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:37 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 96owner
So where do some of you have rust, where are popular places on D1s for rust and how can i go about fixing all the rust?
The rear cross member is a know problem area, also you'll want to check all the underside, chasssis rails front anr rear.

Best thing to do it pressure wash it all off, get rid of all the mud and any underseal which is flaking as water will get under it. Then make sure it's dry and give it a really good coating of black waxoil. It will look 10x better and it really will help to protect it. Then once a year or so just re-appliy the wax oil over the top.

Inside the rear wheel arch is common also, the panel behind the wheel nearly always rusts thru but it's not structural.

If the car leaks then yes cheack the floor under the carpet as water will sit there.

The roof, bonnet and rear door are all steel so it's worth checking although from my experience none have been issues in the UK.

The bumpers do rust and rust badly, espcially under the plastic bumper corners. Water/mud gets trapped in there. Also anything powder or plastic coated is likely to be a problem as the coating cracks and water gets trapped under it, this is what happens with the bumpers. I really hate powder coated items.

If you're really serious then you could strip the vehicle and have the chassis dipped, reparied if needed and galvanised. It'll last forever then.

The batter box and opporsit corner often trap dirt from the front wheels, there should be plastic spats to prevent this but if a clip has broken then mud gets in and stays in.

You'll find all the small nuts and bolts holding things on like the bumper corners and such also rust to buggery but I guess thats the same for most vehicles.

All in all if the chassis is sound then chances are the rest of the vehicle is also.
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Old 06-16-2006, 07:08 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the help. My reason for the post was that last time a put the rear seats down to load it up of atv gear I saw a rust hole not big enough to stick a finger through but you could see through to the ground. And I have very bad leaking problems with the rear window. Also to add to the problem I live in NJ where every winter the put salt on to roads that eats away at out underbody
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Old 06-16-2006, 08:43 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Not trying to be funny but do you actually own a Land Rover???

The reason I ask is you are describing rust where it is totally and physically impossible to get.

This is because most of the body work is aluminium, and aluminium does not rust, sure it will still corrode or oxidise but not rust. Electrolosis is a common problem where aluminium and steel components are touching.

The wheel arch has rust clear as day (I can take pics). The rear of my truck around the lights.. ok maybe its not rust but other corrosion but I just see the bubbling right now I didn't dig in yet.. If oxidizing or other corrosion causes bubbling. I stand corrected.

& yes I own a DI.. this is my 2nd land rover.. The RRC had rusted through footwell in drivers side flintsones style, rusted rear window frame, rusted bonnet, rusted bumper, etc. Sorry I spoke out of line on the weld & door bottoms.. what was I thinking? Also.. the original poster was indeed rust specific I am sorry for the confusion. I was listing corrosion problems not just for rust. I Hang my head in shame..
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Old 06-16-2006, 11:03 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Aaron98Disco
Also.. the original poster was indeed rust specific I am sorry for the confusion. I was listing corrosion problems not just for rust. I Hang my head in shame..
what ever rust corrosion all things that eat way at my truck that i need to stop. but ok i know where to look now. dos any 1 have any information on how to go about fixing rust. right now my plan is to sand/wirewheel it off then spray it with rust proof spray paint then bondo it. i know its a probly now the right way but but its the only way i know thats what we did on my friends VW and it looked ok. but how lokg will it last.

also i could replace the panles but thats probly expencive. so what are my options. sorry for the dumb questions im inexperenced.
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Old 06-16-2006, 02:18 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96owner
what ever rust corrosion all things that eat way at my truck that i need to stop. but ok i know where to look now. dos any 1 have any information on how to go about fixing rust. right now my plan is to sand/wirewheel it off then spray it with rust proof spray paint then bondo it. i know its a probly now the right way but but its the only way i know thats what we did on my friends VW and it looked ok. but how lokg will it last.

also i could replace the panles but thats probly expencive. so what are my options. sorry for the dumb questions im inexperenced.

yeah, my reply/rant was towards the sh*tty arrogant remark I got from my friend up in the thread. Sorry if some of it was on the sarcastic side.. it was for my buddy, not you. 3m makes a weld free adhesive for panels. 8115 I think..
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Old 06-16-2006, 03:49 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aaron98Disco
yeah, my reply/rant was towards the sh*tty arrogant remark I got from my friend up in the thread. Sorry if some of it was on the sarcastic side.. it was for my buddy, not you. 3m makes a weld free adhesive for panels. 8115 I think..


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Old 06-16-2006, 03:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Hell yeah man!
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