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Old 02-28-2008, 08:20 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Question Stuck in park

Hey guys Im looking for a brake light switch for my 97 discovery.
I was stuck in park today and I had no brake lights.I did the jumper thing to get me home but now I need the switch .(Napa No) advanced auto No
autozone has @ but I dont know what one to get.If you have a part number please let me know.


Thanks Shawn
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:21 AM   #2 (permalink)
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First, did you check the fuse?
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Old 02-29-2008, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The fuse is good.
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Where are you located? I have them in stock.
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Old 02-29-2008, 08:08 PM   #5 (permalink)
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John Im in lake ariel Pa. 18436
How about a price and shipping on that bad boy The stealer wanted 75.00
Other 35.00 plus shipping.YOU ?

Thanks Shawn
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Old 03-15-2008, 08:35 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Stuck in Park story and answers

I'm posting this reply because I experienced this issue yesterday, and solved it. I found there are many posts in this forum on this topic, and there is a lot of speculation, mis-information, and some just plain wrong information about this problem, which can lead readers astray, or even cause additional damage to the vehicle; not to mention, not solving the problem.

Being stuck in park can be a very frustrating and potentially expensive experience. The primary cause, the only one I am familiar with, is a failure to energize the solenoid that is part of the gearshift selector switch that keeps the shifter locked in park until the ignition is turned on and the brake pedal is depressed.

The brake light circuit energizes the solenoid when the selector is in park and the brake lights are energized. A fault in the brake light circuit that blows the fuse that protects the circuit will result in a failure to energize the solenoid. The fuse is fuse number 1, 15 Amps, blue-colored. It is found in the fascia fuse panel at the bottom of the primary fuse block.

Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.

Finally, the solenoid itself may be faulty.

My understanding of the likelihood of these failure modes is that a brake light circuit short is most likely, followed by a bad brake light switch, and then the solenoid.

If the fuse is blown, it is most likely because there is a fault in the circuit. If this is the case, shorting the rear window heater circuit to the brake circuit, as recommended elsewhere, may result in damage to the wiring. Don't do this unless you are certain that the brake light switch is at fault.

What to do:

1. Check brake lights. Are the brake lights working? If so, the problem is probably the solenoid or intervening wiring. Go to (4.) below.

2. If the lights don't work, check the fuse (fuse #1). If the fuse is blown, it's probably a short in the brake light circuit.

Eliminate the likely source of the fault, the tail light assemblies, replace the fuse and try again. Here's how:

I recommend opening the rear light access panels, as when replacing a bulb, and unplugging the wiring harnesses connected to the tail light assemblies. Then replace the fuse, turn the ignition to "run" (position II) step on the brake and try to move the shifter. There should be a spare fuse and a fuse puller tool in the fascia fuse block area. If this works, remember, no tail lights! Have the truck towed, or carefully drive home or to a shop.

3. If the fuse isn't blown, it may be the brake light switch. This circuit may be shorted in order to shift out of park. To do so, remove the kick panel above the brake pedal, and look up the pedal are. The bottommost switch, the one with a hose connected, is the cruise control switch: leave it alone. Above that is the brake light switch. Carefully unplug the four pin flat connector. The switch may come out. On the wire side of the connector there are two wires that are mostly green in color. Prepare to short these wires' connector pins together with a paper clip or something. Set the parking brake, ignition on "run," short the pins and hear a "click;" have an assistant move the shifter out of park (or figure out how to do it yourself!).

4. If all else fails, one may directly energize the solenoid. I did this. It requires removing the center console. Once removed, reconnect the parking brake linkage(!) and locate the connector at the rear of the selector assembly. It is a six (6) contact connector. Disconnect and locate pins 2 and 5, which, if you look into the connector end held horizontally, are the two pins in the center vertical column. Note also that the wires connected to these pins are red and black, respectively. Attach clip leads to the two pins and apply 12 Volts across the leads; polarity shouldn't matter, but I followed the wiring diagram with +12V on pin2 and ground on pin 5. Hear a click, and move the shifter out of park. If there's no click, the solenoid is at fault.

5. Faulty solenoid. I am told that if the shifter assembly is further disassembled, that you can get to the solenoid and manually disengage it; however, I haven't investigated this myself.

Good luck. I personally did this using method 4, before I realized I could have simply unplugged the tail lights. My right tail light was shorted due to severe corrosion. I cleaned it up, replaced the bulb holder, put everything back together, and I'm on my way.

Some parts of this note are somewhat speculative, so proceed with caution.
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Old 06-07-2008, 10:00 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Ok I have been having this problem for little over a month now but there were other things that concerned me more so I ignored it until those were fixed. Now its time for this one. My 99 disco I gets stuck in park but only sometimes. Lets say I wake up in the morning and go to work. My truck will be fine in the morning and after being at work for 5 hours or so it will be fine for the ride home. Where I am having the problem is if I have to make a short trip to say the grocery store. I put my truck in park go into the store get some milk and bread and come back out and my truck is stuck in park. I then have to go back inside the store or find something else to do for about an hour before my truck will work again. The fuses are fine and I have brake lights. I did have a short in my rear defrost terminals but I corrected that problem. I recently had battery trouble and had to have it replaced so I am figuring it is a problem with the solenoid. Its like if prolonged use causes it to heat up and I need to give it rest before it can work again??? Does this make sense? It is an annoying problem because I have to give my car so long to rest b4 I can use it again. Where is the solenoid? Is there only one for the entire truck or are there separate ones for different things? Thanks for the help in advance!
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Wink sounds like something heat related....

You might want to check some of those electrical connectors or even the selnoid having a thermostatic connection. It works fine cold but then the heat from the engine/tranny tunnel is causing a open which corrects itself when you have the vehicle cool down.

With electrical/electronic problems, shooting it with cold spray usually shows the curplit. Of course you have to drive it with the shifter open and exposed.
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Old 12-12-2009, 12:00 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss View Post
I'm posting this reply because I experienced this issue yesterday, and solved it. I found there are many posts in this forum on this topic, and there is a lot of speculation, mis-information, and some just plain wrong information about this problem, which can lead readers astray, or even cause additional damage to the vehicle; not to mention, not solving the problem.

Being stuck in park can be a very frustrating and potentially expensive experience. The primary cause, the only one I am familiar with, is a failure to energize the solenoid that is part of the gearshift selector switch that keeps the shifter locked in park until the ignition is turned on and the brake pedal is depressed.

The brake light circuit energizes the solenoid when the selector is in park and the brake lights are energized. A fault in the brake light circuit that blows the fuse that protects the circuit will result in a failure to energize the solenoid. The fuse is fuse number 1, 15 Amps, blue-colored. It is found in the fascia fuse panel at the bottom of the primary fuse block.

Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.

Finally, the solenoid itself may be faulty.

My understanding of the likelihood of these failure modes is that a brake light circuit short is most likely, followed by a bad brake light switch, and then the solenoid.

If the fuse is blown, it is most likely because there is a fault in the circuit. If this is the case, shorting the rear window heater circuit to the brake circuit, as recommended elsewhere, may result in damage to the wiring. Don't do this unless you are certain that the brake light switch is at fault.

What to do:

1. Check brake lights. Are the brake lights working? If so, the problem is probably the solenoid or intervening wiring. Go to (4.) below.

2. If the lights don't work, check the fuse (fuse #1). If the fuse is blown, it's probably a short in the brake light circuit.

Eliminate the likely source of the fault, the tail light assemblies, replace the fuse and try again. Here's how:

I recommend opening the rear light access panels, as when replacing a bulb, and unplugging the wiring harnesses connected to the tail light assemblies. Then replace the fuse, turn the ignition to "run" (position II) step on the brake and try to move the shifter. There should be a spare fuse and a fuse puller tool in the fascia fuse block area. If this works, remember, no tail lights! Have the truck towed, or carefully drive home or to a shop.

3. If the fuse isn't blown, it may be the brake light switch. This circuit may be shorted in order to shift out of park. To do so, remove the kick panel above the brake pedal, and look up the pedal are. The bottommost switch, the one with a hose connected, is the cruise control switch: leave it alone. Above that is the brake light switch. Carefully unplug the four pin flat connector. The switch may come out. On the wire side of the connector there are two wires that are mostly green in color. Prepare to short these wires' connector pins together with a paper clip or something. Set the parking brake, ignition on "run," short the pins and hear a "click;" have an assistant move the shifter out of park (or figure out how to do it yourself!).

4. If all else fails, one may directly energize the solenoid. I did this. It requires removing the center console. Once removed, reconnect the parking brake linkage(!) and locate the connector at the rear of the selector assembly. It is a six (6) contact connector. Disconnect and locate pins 2 and 5, which, if you look into the connector end held horizontally, are the two pins in the center vertical column. Note also that the wires connected to these pins are red and black, respectively. Attach clip leads to the two pins and apply 12 Volts across the leads; polarity shouldn't matter, but I followed the wiring diagram with +12V on pin2 and ground on pin 5. Hear a click, and move the shifter out of park. If there's no click, the solenoid is at fault.

5. Faulty solenoid. I am told that if the shifter assembly is further disassembled, that you can get to the solenoid and manually disengage it; however, I haven't investigated this myself.

Good luck. I personally did this using method 4, before I realized I could have simply unplugged the tail lights. My right tail light was shorted due to severe corrosion. I cleaned it up, replaced the bulb holder, put everything back together, and I'm on my way.

Some parts of this note are somewhat speculative, so proceed with caution.
Awesome post I will try these solutions on this annoying problem haha I thought my tranny was frozen.
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Old 12-13-2009, 08:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss View Post
I'm posting this reply because I experienced this issue yesterday, and solved it. I found there are many posts in this forum on this topic, and there is a lot of speculation, mis-information, and some just plain wrong information about this problem, which can lead readers astray, or even cause additional damage to the vehicle; not to mention, not solving the problem.

Being stuck in park can be a very frustrating and potentially expensive experience. The primary cause, the only one I am familiar with, is a failure to energize the solenoid that is part of the gearshift selector switch that keeps the shifter locked in park until the ignition is turned on and the brake pedal is depressed.

The brake light circuit energizes the solenoid when the selector is in park and the brake lights are energized. A fault in the brake light circuit that blows the fuse that protects the circuit will result in a failure to energize the solenoid. The fuse is fuse number 1, 15 Amps, blue-colored. It is found in the fascia fuse panel at the bottom of the primary fuse block.

Another reason for a failure to energize the solenoid is a faulty brake light switch.

Finally, the solenoid itself may be faulty.

My understanding of the likelihood of these failure modes is that a brake light circuit short is most likely, followed by a bad brake light switch, and then the solenoid.

If the fuse is blown, it is most likely because there is a fault in the circuit. If this is the case, shorting the rear window heater circuit to the brake circuit, as recommended elsewhere, may result in damage to the wiring. Don't do this unless you are certain that the brake light switch is at fault.

What to do:

1. Check brake lights. Are the brake lights working? If so, the problem is probably the solenoid or intervening wiring. Go to (4.) below.

2. If the lights don't work, check the fuse (fuse #1). If the fuse is blown, it's probably a short in the brake light circuit.

Eliminate the likely source of the fault, the tail light assemblies, replace the fuse and try again. Here's how:

I recommend opening the rear light access panels, as when replacing a bulb, and unplugging the wiring harnesses connected to the tail light assemblies. Then replace the fuse, turn the ignition to "run" (position II) step on the brake and try to move the shifter. There should be a spare fuse and a fuse puller tool in the fascia fuse block area. If this works, remember, no tail lights! Have the truck towed, or carefully drive home or to a shop.

3. If the fuse isn't blown, it may be the brake light switch. This circuit may be shorted in order to shift out of park. To do so, remove the kick panel above the brake pedal, and look up the pedal are. The bottommost switch, the one with a hose connected, is the cruise control switch: leave it alone. Above that is the brake light switch. Carefully unplug the four pin flat connector. The switch may come out. On the wire side of the connector there are two wires that are mostly green in color. Prepare to short these wires' connector pins together with a paper clip or something. Set the parking brake, ignition on "run," short the pins and hear a "click;" have an assistant move the shifter out of park (or figure out how to do it yourself!).

4. If all else fails, one may directly energize the solenoid. I did this. It requires removing the center console. Once removed, reconnect the parking brake linkage(!) and locate the connector at the rear of the selector assembly. It is a six (6) contact connector. Disconnect and locate pins 2 and 5, which, if you look into the connector end held horizontally, are the two pins in the center vertical column. Note also that the wires connected to these pins are red and black, respectively. Attach clip leads to the two pins and apply 12 Volts across the leads; polarity shouldn't matter, but I followed the wiring diagram with +12V on pin2 and ground on pin 5. Hear a click, and move the shifter out of park. If there's no click, the solenoid is at fault.

5. Faulty solenoid. I am told that if the shifter assembly is further disassembled, that you can get to the solenoid and manually disengage it; however, I haven't investigated this myself.

Good luck. I personally did this using method 4, before I realized I could have simply unplugged the tail lights. My right tail light was shorted due to severe corrosion. I cleaned it up, replaced the bulb holder, put everything back together, and I'm on my way.

Some parts of this note are somewhat speculative, so proceed with caution.
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If I didn't know better, I'd say you were watching me thru my fence last month.

I'll only add, when I looked @fuse in holder, it looked good. (it wasn't)

TAKE THE FUSE OUT & LOOK

(my right side brakelight had intermittent short when hot)

NICE POST - THANKS, greg
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Last edited by greg409; 12-13-2009 at 08:59 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-13-2009, 01:17 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Still Stuck in P

I'm still stuck in P.
My fuse is good.
When I hit the brake, my rear wiper goes.
Maybe a short?
When I hit the brake I hear a click under the glove box could that be the sound of a short?
when I relese the brake the service engine light comes on.

I haven't checked the brakelight switch yet, have been lookin for bad grounds in the light connectors no luck yet.
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Old 12-13-2009, 02:13 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boular View Post
When I hit the brake I hear a click under the glove box could that be the sound of a short?
No, a short goes "pffffttt"

Get someone to see if your brake lights are actually going on. If they aren't, but the fuse is good, your brake switch isn't.
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Old 12-14-2009, 01:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TerryS View Post
No, a short goes "pffffttt"

Get someone to see if your brake lights are actually going on. If they aren't, but the fuse is good, your brake switch isn't.
Thanks Terry

No brakelights.
But I ran the truck for 20min or so to warm it up, and the second try for some reason I was able to shift out of park!
But I checked again and still no brake lights, but atleast I'm not in park anymore Leavin it in "N" for a while. Parked with the Parking brake and a rock behind the wheel, in a better location the then side of the road lucky too its gunna snow tonight into weds, the plows wouldn't have liked it being there to much.

I will work with the brake light switch hopefully I can get my brake lights back an be road worthy again
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Old 05-31-2010, 12:59 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I realize this post is 5 months old, But does anyone know how to remove the brakelight switch? I got the cruise control one out fairly easy, but I cant seem to get the brakelight one to move, any ideas??
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:13 PM   #15 (permalink)
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anyone?

Im desperate for ideas on how to remove the switch, it felt like their was a nut behind it, but i cant confirm this.

edit: after reading rave manual on brakelight switch, it was like epihany, and I should have read it sooner... LOL So know Im waiting for a switch thats 3 days away, and buying a spare one too...
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Last edited by u68502; 05-31-2010 at 11:14 PM. Reason: fixed
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