I like to put mud tires on disco for lil rock crawling and also mudding. and like to know how i should go 235/85-16 or bigger? i've read 33's aren't really any better on the D1 on stock setup (not including lift) and that going 33 or bigger should consider changing gears and other things. and even with 3" lift gotta do some cutting to get them not to rub. but must i lift to fit 235-85's? if so how much and can i get away with just a body lift and if so whats the cheapest way. Also with tires any one brand better than next?
scratch the Body lift question I just found robertym bl kit but have decided to do a 3" suspension lift any suggestions? like to fit 31's and do some rock crawling and moderate mud so looking for good setup and doesn't have to be the best any suggestion on what you guys think?
get some rovertym 3 inch springs and some decent shocks. Old man emu shocks or even the procomps. They are not as bad as everyone likes to sat. Make a bracket to extend the brakelines off the axle and you are good to go. I am running 285 75 16 which is almost a 33 and I did cut the front and back.
With the 3 inch lift you should be able to get 35's on it, if you did some cutting. but also look around for a double cardan drive shaft or you'll end with bad things happening, like a hole in the tranny. OME shocks would do fine. If you getting the Rovertym kit go for the OME, i wouldnt do the ranchos. But if you can spend an extra 700 then go for the bilstens. you'll also want to get the rovertym swivel ball so your steering isnt destroyed. Im pretty sure the swivel balls corrects the caster angles too.
A 3" suspension lift requires quite a few other parts to compensate for the greater change in drive line angle. If you want to go with a 245/ 75 (30.5"), then go with a 2" suspension lift. I have 235/85's on a OME HD suspension lift (~2"). The 235/85's limit my articulation- need to do a camel cut cut or 2" body lift. Right now I am leaning towards the body lift. Keep in mind, one of the main things that makes the Rover capable is its ability to keep all 4 wheels on the ground and digging- this is all about articulation. If you want to get the most bang for your buck wheeling, I would rule out 35"s- it will take a fairly significant get any flex. Keep in mind, the bigger you go, the more stress you put on other components in the driveline, and you have to upgrade those as you go. Basically, as you go bigger with the lift and tires, you shift the weak link in the driveline. As far as gearing goes, there's a nifty calculator on BF Goodrich's site that tells you how much you would need to change the diff gear to bring it back to stock spec, pending the tire size change. Keep in mind you can always do this in steps...so if you want to start small with the lift and tires, and gradually work your way up, and feel it out as you go. Once you go big, you'll always want to go bigger, but sometimes it makes better sense to feel it out as you go, and do it somewhat methodically.
You do not to do more to your drive line necessarily. I have about 4" of lift over stock, it was probably sagging before I lifted it and I have no issues after 45k miles. I still have a guibo joint and not a ujoint still. This is the next upgrade for piece of mine but it has been fine. If you go with 35s you will want to re-gear. I think 33s in my mind is the limit before re-gearing and at this size it is advisable. I am running 285 75 16s right now and with a little cutting I can flex like crazy.
you dont have to re gear for 35's it would probally be a good idea, but then the axle is weaker and you need to truss it which defeats the purpose of the lift...so ideally if you your looking for something really capable, id go with 33's and a 3 inch RTE lift. as far as the driveline goes for the lift you could get a scrape prop off a disco 2 and an adapter for the older lt230 transfer case and that would do it. RTE offers a good deal on 3 inch lift with OME shocks that are alright. Thats just my 2 cents.
ok so here whats I was thinking of doing rovertym's 2" body and with a brand not sure for springs and prob either ome or blistin shocks for a 2" Suspension lift. now say on this scenario I know the steering coupler will have to be installed but are there anything else like brake lines or arms or anything of that nature redone?
or will it be same amount of misc little things ....(ie lines and arms) needing to be done with just say a 3" suspension lift.
also not sure if anyone knows how they do but i was thinking about getting super swamper SAM-40 32x9-16 or do I want a wider tire?
as far as cutting for tires any pics or links to where to make cuts roughly...
sorry for the questions I'm def a noob to going up I have grew up with slamming things to the ground but my disco got me hooked
well if you just a do a 2 inch suspension lift you dont have to do anything with the driveline geometery. 2 inch suspension and 2 inch body will be longer brake lines, new driveline, etc. Basically the same stuff as a 3 inch lift. A rte 3 inch kit lifts more toward 4 inchs anyway. It compensates for equiment you might have on ur rover so it sits a lil higher.
One option to consider is to do a 2" suspension lift now and run smaller tires. By the time you go wheelin' a few times and wear out that rubber, you'll know if you want to go taller. If the clearance is okay, they you can go taller on the rubber by cutting, BL, or taller suspension--or a combo of all three.
I'd recommend staying as short as you can and still get the tire size and use out of it you want. The less you change, the less $$$ you'll spend upgrading the next thing... and the next thing... and the next thing. It's a vicious cycle. And don't even get me started on why I *personally* don't like HD u-joints because of this! (Yes, it involves finding out what the next weak point in the system is upstream once they're installed.) :^D
well if you just a do a 2 inch suspension lift you dont have to do anything with the driveline geometery. 2 inch suspension and 2 inch body will be longer brake lines, new driveline, etc. Basically the same stuff as a 3 inch lift. A rte 3 inch kit lifts more toward 4 inchs anyway. It compensates for equiment you might have on ur rover so it sits a lil higher.
I always like reading the dribble people post about spring lifts and bigger tyres. But yours is a new one, why would you need to change your driveline due to a body lift?
I always like reading the dribble people post about spring lifts and bigger tyres. But yours is a new one, why would you need to change your driveline due to a body lift?
Just an fyi, a 245/75-16 inch tire fits on a stock suspended D1. You will have to trim a bit off the rear of the rear fender well, but it fits just fine(if you plan on wheeling it, you shouldn't be worried about trimming the body a bit!). Even with a two inch lift you will run into a bit of a rubbing issue with the 245's.
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1997 Disco 1
2000 Disco 2
1989 RR(gone but not forgotten )
i have a 3" suspension lift from toddcosuspensions...springs and shocks... but all on my other drivetrain stuff is stock... im a college student with no money. Am I in trouble? i hear things about drive shafts, axles, and joints breaking... im runnign 265/75/16 with no trimming and only rubbing during articulation
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1996 Land Rover Discovery
3" OME Heavy Duty Springs, Pro Comp shocks, Lights Galore, Roof Rack, Brush Guard, Pioneer System with 12's, 265/75/16 Nitto Terra Grapplers and 255/85/16 Interco Trxus M/T's, ARB winch bumper on the way...
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Tire and lift ? for 98 disco 1
I have grew up with slamming things to the ground but my disco got me hooked 
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