Update on my Rebuild - Land Rovers Only

Disco 1 · 12-03-2006, 04:52 PM

Update: hey all, i am currently ready to lift the block up and out to send it to the shop to get it rebored and get the crank trued. then ill get oversized rings to match the bore and bearings to match as well. i wont be taking it out till next weekend cause i forgot to ask the shop if they want me to take the crank and bearings and pistons and such out or if they want to. so ill take it out next weekend and it will go to the shop next monday. i also will be ordering a performance timing set cam, and lifters. can anyone tell me what i should use as mounting points to take the engine out? i got a suggestion to take a haed bolt to a hardware store and get four more that size and then use the new ones to go through the chain and into the block. i suppose that will work but ive got a week to get any other suggestions or advice. ive never done anything like this so i really dont know any ideas besides the headbolt method i just mentioned. thanks for the help guys. oh and pics of my roof lights installed and working and my switches and such will be up soon.

Totally not related to the work im doing on my truck: i bought a hi-lift jack from the 4 wheel parts store last week (it was on sale $48) and took it home, put it on the back bumper (left side) of my truck and started cranking it up to see how it worked. now i know my disco has wheel travel, but ive never off-roaded it so i dont know how much. it is all stock and still has front and rear sway bars on it and sits on 235/70/16s. the jack(48") was about 5 inches from the top by the time my back left tire finally picked up off the ground. looks like im going back to swap out for the 60" model for sure.

rmuller · 12-03-2006, 05:03 PM

Yeah, I've noticed that the 48" hilift worked best on the sliders and using the wheelmate to lift up a wheel.

Disco 1 · 12-03-2006, 05:08 PM

aha i see, well my sliders are plastic for now so ill upgrade so that i have more options, good point though i could use the wheel mate (use = buy and then use)

Disco 1 · 12-05-2006, 08:48 AM

ok so ive now been told never to use headbolts, but to use whatever polt holes i can find on the front and back of the engine, any advice here on what to use as lift points in pulling my block? thanks in advance

12-03-2006, 04:52 PM	#1 (permalink)
Disco 1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Starkville MS Posts: 134 Gallery: 0	Update on my Rebuild Update: hey all, i am currently ready to lift the block up and out to send it to the shop to get it rebored and get the crank trued. then ill get oversized rings to match the bore and bearings to match as well. i wont be taking it out till next weekend cause i forgot to ask the shop if they want me to take the crank and bearings and pistons and such out or if they want to. so ill take it out next weekend and it will go to the shop next monday. i also will be ordering a performance timing set cam, and lifters. can anyone tell me what i should use as mounting points to take the engine out? i got a suggestion to take a haed bolt to a hardware store and get four more that size and then use the new ones to go through the chain and into the block. i suppose that will work but ive got a week to get any other suggestions or advice. ive never done anything like this so i really dont know any ideas besides the headbolt method i just mentioned. thanks for the help guys. oh and pics of my roof lights installed and working and my switches and such will be up soon. Totally not related to the work im doing on my truck: i bought a hi-lift jack from the 4 wheel parts store last week (it was on sale $48) and took it home, put it on the back bumper (left side) of my truck and started cranking it up to see how it worked. now i know my disco has wheel travel, but ive never off-roaded it so i dont know how much. it is all stock and still has front and rear sway bars on it and sits on 235/70/16s. the jack(48") was about 5 inches from the top by the time my back left tire finally picked up off the ground. looks like im going back to swap out for the 60" model for sure.

12-03-2006, 05:03 PM	#2 (permalink)
rmuller Moderator Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Northern NJ Posts: 2,414 Gallery: 0	Yeah, I've noticed that the 48" hilift worked best on the sliders and using the wheelmate to lift up a wheel. __________________ Ryan :: Off-Road/Accessories Moderator :: Gallery 2001 Discovery II \| 1994 Defender 90 #416

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Land Rovers Only - Land Rover Forum Advertisement

12-03-2006, 05:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
Disco 1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Starkville MS Posts: 134 Gallery: 0	aha i see, well my sliders are plastic for now so ill upgrade so that i have more options, good point though i could use the wheel mate (use = buy and then use)

12-05-2006, 08:48 AM	#4 (permalink)
Disco 1 Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Starkville MS Posts: 134 Gallery: 0	ok so ive now been told never to use headbolts, but to use whatever polt holes i can find on the front and back of the engine, any advice here on what to use as lift points in pulling my block? thanks in advance

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)