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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 170
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Are there any specific engine seals on a 97 DI that are prone to leaking? My rig only has 55k on it and there is a bad leak from one of the seals - can not tell which one and does'nt seem to bother the oil level too much considering the amount I find under the vehicle. I'm buying valve cover gaskets and oil pan gaskets. Are there any others I should get that a weekend Mech can handle?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,331
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That is a question that in the end, you are going to have to figure out by crawling under the truck and looking. I wouls start by degreasing and pressure washing the engine, top and bottom so you can see exactly what is leaking and from where. Once you have an idea where the fluid is coming from, get back to us and maybe we can try and help.
If you are having too much trouble spotting the leak, put some engine oil dye in the crank case and black light the engine in a couple of days. Mike |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
![]() Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Parker, Colorado
Posts: 5,331
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Quote:
Mike |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Former NAS LR TECH, Current AUS LR TECH
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: DOWN UNDER
Posts: 1,740
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actually a comprehensive diyer, could do head gaskets as well. The entire parts can cost less then two hundred dollars and a few hours. you also need a torque wrench as well.
trick is to have a second vehicle. that way you can shuttle your way to say a local shop that will let you use their parts washer. That way you can clean everything off, also too buy some vacuum line while your in there, I am sure all the vacuum lines are need replacement. and before you go and buy the kit from AB or Rovers north check the dealers, you might find all the parts included with it are cheaper including new bolts and the like for everything. The dealers are aware of the job and a good parts guy will know exactly what you need. a good one, not a rookie but a good one.
__________________
I work on Rovers. Got a question just ask. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 433
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Rovin4life - pass that by me again.... You aren't serious about changing head gaskets for "two hundred dollars" are you??? The job took me multiple weekends and was not easy in any way! I am a veteran of years of engine work and still found the job challenging. Natvboy seems to have a leak (or two)...let him tackle that problem if possible without removing the heads. Valvecover gaskets alone will take all day if done carefully even if you have the correct 12 point deep socket just to start. Doing headgaskets will likely end up being a $500+ job with decoking, reseating valves, milling the head face and pressure checking etc. Just getting to those rear head bolts is difficult (I broke 2 sockets removing them) and paid $130 to the dealer for new ones (the after market headbolts I found were crap).
Natvboy, in 97 a new rear seal was used at the back of the crank but I am told it leaks just like the earlier design. These engines leak at both ends of the crank but my experience is that the valve covers are the most leak prone. When you take them off you will see how badly they are designed. If this is your leak, consider yourself lucky and spend lots of time cleaning the mating surfaces - use the best gasket seal. How much oil are you finding on the ground - if it's only a single drip per day, that's considered normal. The transmissions and T cases leak also. Good luck, but spend the necessary time to find out where the leak(s) originate from. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 170
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Actually have yet to see any on the ground. Just think there is a rediculous amount accumulating around the bottom of the engine and oil pan. Thanks guys I think once my sister gets out of the hospital I will change the valve cover gaskets first and move from there.
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Forward!
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Quote:
Hell you might just want to try retorqueing the screws holding the valve cover. On my 97 my valve covers leaked like a sieve, and found out a couple of the screws were finger loose! Got the correct socket, retorqued, been good to go for about a year. They are rubber and unless they are all dried out retightening isn't a problem. Just clean it up when your done and keep an eye on it. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 778
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Quote:
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2006 Range Rover Sport HSE Rimini Red 2001 D2 CDL ![]() 1998 D1 ('Henry' Sold 05/05 Bought Back 01/06 Retired) 1988 RRC SWB ('Silver Bullet' Retired 05/98) |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Ft. Worth, Texas
Posts: 490
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Uhhhhh
If you are not leaking on the ground and it is only a "wet" look to the underside.... DONT Worry yourself too much! Just keep an eye on the levels. A small amount of oil can go a long way to looking like major leak with the dirt and grime that builds up around it. Honestly, if you did not have a little glazing under there I would wonder what was wrong. ![]()
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That is not a leak! That is undercarriage rust inhibitor. 98 Discovery |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 170
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Cool thanks for the input guys. texasrover I am always on dirt/gravel roads so what you are saying about the dirt making it look worse makes sense. By the way, what are the torque specs for the valve cover and oil pan?
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