ktm_525

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You should beable to pry/rip/slide off the rubber bit by itself re the old switch and hence sort of expose the switch bits but leaving the hard plastic bit in place. Looking up into the V, you will probably see white corrosion stuff that can be scraped away with a pointy thing and probably you can get the switch working again while waiting for the new one.

The new one, (that is the RR Sport switch) will have the JAE connector; the official LR3 part requires you to have to remove the whole upper handle bit as the switch is hard wired to an interior wiring harness. If you do the mod, keep as much wire as you can, (cut close to the removed switch), as you only get about 1/16" of wire to play with re crimping the new JAE pins.

I just noticed this message. I presume that you found the Disco3 link below as you have the info re the JAE connector.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Switch Replacement Rear Upper Hatch Release

No, you do not have to pull the license plate off or anything really, you just pry the old switch out, that is if you are doing the mod. Wait until you have the new one so you can see where the spring plastic clips are.

Removal is supposed to be easy but it is not. I did not wreck mine but LR has changed the design a bit so removal of the new switch would be even harder. The newer design glues the soft rubber bit to the hard plastic behind so as to stop water getting in between that causes the problem, (corrosion), in the first place. continued new message - thousand letter limit.