Engine won't start - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 06:47 AM Thread Starter
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Engine won't start

I have a 2010 LR2. This morning i went to start the car. Pushed the key in the ignition, stepped on the brake, pushed start. The engine started cranking then stopped. This has been happening occasional lately. I usually take the key out. Start the process over and the engine starts. Not this time. After pushing the key back in, stepped on the brake. The brake was stiff. I pushed the start button, no engine crank. The instrument lights come on but that's it.
I thought maybe it was the battery. I bought a new battery but same result.
Any suggestions on what to try? Look for?

Thanks
Peter
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 02:07 PM
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We had an alternator go bad and produce similar symptoms. Apparently it didn't cause any warning lights for some reason, it may have been making some voltage but enough to keep the battery charged for starting.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2019, 09:11 AM
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Originally Posted by pvidulich View Post
I have a 2010 LR2. This morning i went to start the car. Pushed the key in the ignition, stepped on the brake, pushed start. The engine started cranking then stopped. This has been happening occasional lately. I usually take the key out. Start the process over and the engine starts. Not this time. After pushing the key back in, stepped on the brake. The brake was stiff. I pushed the start button, no engine crank. The instrument lights come on but that's it.
I thought maybe it was the battery. I bought a new battery but same result.
Any suggestions on what to try? Look for?

Thanks
Peter
How many miles on the car? Sounds like a starter. Do you have a multimeter or access to one?
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:13 AM Thread Starter
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I have 80,000 miles. No I don't have a multimeter.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:54 AM
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Originally Posted by pvidulich View Post
I have 80,000 miles. No I don't have a multimeter.
my starter went right around 100k miles. After inserting the key, I'd get lights on the radio, dash, etc... But when I pushed the start button the engine didn't even attempt to crank. I'd charge the battery (and even swapped in a new one) and they would almost immediately drain from trying to start it. Does this sound like yours?
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Yes, that sounds very similar.
How much did it cost to fix?
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 11:17 AM
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You should wait until there are some more definitive comments about the problem before spending more money. Just throwing random parts at it is not the right approach. Sounds like you may have already replaced a battery when that was not the problem.

Also you might do a thorough search of this forum to see if this same problem has been resolved by another forum member.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 04:58 PM
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Yes, that sounds very similar.
How much did it cost to fix?
It's a cheap and easy DIY... And that starter will go out sooner or later. AutoZone sells a remanufactured unit that is the OEM Bosch part. If I recall after the core charge, it ran me $150. I'd expect to pay $500+ if you had this done at the dealer (or more) and maybe $300 or so at an indy.

As the above suggested, it's worth testing first if you feel obligated. You can buy a cheap multimeter at your local parts shop or harbor freight and test it for yourself in a under 10 minutes (assuming you have some ramps or a jack/jack stand).

Post up here which method you decide to go and I'll try to help anyway I can. I believe I have photos from my install.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 05:03 PM
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Redtruck - are you out there? Need help here.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2019, 07:44 PM
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I will agree with not just throwing parts at it until it’s fixed.
Yes a starter is a possibility but not the ONLY possibility.
If it is a push button system it could possibly be electrical/ communication issues.
I would recommend having it scanned for codes and/ or properly diagnosed.
Assuming if you don’t have a multimeter you probably don’t have a scan tool either??

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