LR2 Hood Switch - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #16 of 18 (permalink) Old 07-28-2016, 07:46 PM
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That doesnt sound correct to me, AFAIK that assy is plug and play, have some patience and download this http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/Freelander2_Manual.pdf (large file) you can find accurate info in it in the proper repair section
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post #17 of 18 (permalink) Old 11-17-2018, 05:55 PM
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Super helpful post. Unlike other suggestions about taking off the grill (not easy in my 2011 LR2), I could get the switch connector out from the engine side. On the engine side of the connector and on the top, there is a flexible arm that can be pushed down to unhook the connector. A little jiggling while pulling gently released the connector. I made my jumper from a length of coax cable core and taped it in place. Tested it with the hood open and started the car. No Open Bonnet message. Sweet.
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post #18 of 18 (permalink) Old 03-22-2019, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by OldManRunning View Post
Super helpful post. Unlike other suggestions about taking off the grill (not easy in my 2011 LR2), I could get the switch connector out from the engine side. On the engine side of the connector and on the top, there is a flexible arm that can be pushed down to unhook the connector. A little jiggling while pulling gently released the connector. I made my jumper from a length of coax cable core and taped it in place. Tested it with the hood open and started the car. No Open Bonnet message. Sweet.
Replaced the switch today. I ordered it before I realzied you could just short the wire harness out. But it might be nice to have the switch, in addition to making the alarm go off at night it probably warns you if you're driving with the hood unlatched...

Here's how I replaced the switch, it was pretty easy:

1. Remove the four top bolts on the grill cover (torx or flathead screwdriver). The grill cover is now loose and gives you some wiggle room.
2. Remove the Pax side headlight.
- Two obvious bolts on top.
- This is the cute part. There's a plastic latch on the bottom, but you release by pressing the black plastic extension lever on the top of the headlight assembly behind the headlight. It's obvious when you look behind the headlight.
- Unplug the headlight electrical harness, remove headlight.
3. Now you can access the two bolts that hold the hood latch in place, remove these with a socket and fingers (need to pull the grill cover away a bit).
4. Locate and unplug the latch electrical connector from behind. It has a plastic lock tab to squeeze, then pull straight back.
5. Now you can pull the entire latch assembly out from the engine side. It's still attached to the latch cable, so move it towards the driver side to get some free play and wiggle it out around the PS hoses.
6. Now that it's out you can easily get a grip and release the plastic lock tabs on the switch, remove and replace the switch.
7. Re-assembly is the reverse. Don't forget to plug in the switch connector, or your car won't lock! You can do this at the very end if you forget. Same for the headlight plug, but it's easier to install with the headlight partly out.

If you just wanted to short the connector I think you could access that from behind on the engine side without removing anything.
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