2006 LR3 4.4L Coolant Steam and Overheating - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #16 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Also, on a another note, I will be doing my rotors and brakes on this vehicle...2006 LR3. I would like to go a bit on the performance side, with minimal brake dust. I see there are some compatible rotors with the holes drilled and ceramic brake pads. Would you kindly review and give some recommendations. Thanks in advance.
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post #17 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 12:03 PM
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You'll probably have to pick one or the other- power or dust.

The Akebono ceramics work great and they're not too bad on dust. I've never had any sort of luck with drilled or slotted rotors on anything other than a performance vehicle. We tried them on our f250's and all we got was pulsation and poor wear. I've put them on my M5 and got exactly the same, plus grabby performance unless really hot.

Your best upgrade would be to replace the rubber lines between the frame and calipers with braided stainless. You'll see a marked improvement. And, they don't put off dust, wear out or cause pulsation.
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post #18 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 03:51 PM
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Because air isn't lighter than water and won't rise to the highest point. The designers just put that part on there as decoration.

When your system vaporlocks and you lose a head gasket, send Ian the bill.
I said it made it easier and it does. I is certainly not essential, as has been now proven.
I know that you love experiments. Get a bit of clear hose and connect it to your garden hose. Put the clear section higher than the outlet of the hose. Turn on the tap and see how long the air stays in the high part of the hose.
You just try to scare people into taking your advice, whether this be that it will cost you a fortune or, as in this case, it will destroy your motor.
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post #19 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:01 PM
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Ian says he knows more than LR engineering and he's probably right.

Ian, being a professional mechanic, when you're done with a customer's car, do you give them back a little package of all the extra parts that you figured weren't necessary, or do you just hang onto those?
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post #20 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 04:29 PM
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Ian says he knows more than LR engineering and he's probably right.

Ian, being a professional mechanic, when you're done with a customer's car, do you give them back a little package of all the extra parts that you figured weren't necessary, or do you just hang onto those?
Your a real dick. Every post I state that it is desirable to have the bleed screw. I certainly do not recommend removing it or that it should not be there. I have just said, and proven to be correct, that you can still get the system bleed without it. It just takes longer. My solution is not good for a dealer or other mechanic who wants to get it bleed in one go and get it back out of their workshop.
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 06:18 PM
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Also, on a another note, I will be doing my rotors and brakes on this vehicle...2006 LR3. I would like to go a bit on the performance side, with minimal brake dust. I see there are some compatible rotors with the holes drilled and ceramic brake pads. Would you kindly review and give some recommendations. Thanks in advance.
It really depends on what you class as a performance brake. For example, brake pads used in race cars are useless when cold, yet they are the ultimate "performance" brakes. Holes and slots give better performance on-road, but fill up with dirt and mud off-road. Brakes are not a one size fits all situation. You need to better identify in what situations you want them to "perform".
For example, in my ute I use a hard pad that will not overheat when being used a lot off-road. They are not particularly good for the first few stops of the day until they get some temp into them. In my wife's disco I use softer pads that give better stopping when cold and around town, but can get too hot off-road.

Then you have to think about all your electronic controls that were designed for the standard brake setup. Like traction control, ABS, hill descent, stability controls, etc. What affect will making dramatic changes to the braking system will have on these. Down here it would actually be illegal to change the braking system on a vehicle with stability control.
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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:14 PM
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Every post I state that it is desirable to have the bleed screw. I certainly do not recommend removing it or that it should not be there. .
Then why are you arguing with me that it needs to be replaced?
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:16 PM Thread Starter
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So when I refer to performance, I meant braking with a trailer in tow. I have a construction company and tow a trailer at least once or twice a week. However, I am more interested in minimizing brake dust more than anything. The pads I have on the truck work just fine. The rotors and pads were replaced in 2014, so I would like to be proactive and replace now rather than wait to hear the grinding noise. So I would like some recommendation on pads and rotors that would minimize brake dust.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:44 PM
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So when I refer to performance, I meant braking with a trailer in tow. I have a construction company and tow a trailer at least once or twice a week. However, I am more interested in minimizing brake dust more than anything. The pads I have on the truck work just fine. The rotors and pads were replaced in 2014, so I would like to be proactive and replace now rather than wait to hear the grinding noise. So I would like some recommendation on pads and rotors that would minimize brake dust.
usually less dust means harder pads which mean less braking when cold.
What do you have against brake dust?
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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-12-2017, 07:56 PM
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Then why are you arguing with me that it needs to be replaced?
The map pocket on the door trim on my wife's disco is broken and I should replace it. Does it cause any issues other than an inconvenience.....NO. Would I suggest anyone removing it.......NO. Would I suggest that it is an essential thing to replace...... NO.

The bleed screw comes into the same category. It is just like the 14CUX systems. They didn't have a bleed spot on the heater hose, then they started fitting them, then they stopped fitting them. They can make life easier and if you have one, use it. Can you live without it....... you certainly can.
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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 04:45 AM
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So when I refer to performance, I meant braking with a trailer in tow. I have a construction company and tow a trailer at least once or twice a week. However, I am more interested in minimizing brake dust more than anything. The pads I have on the truck work just fine. The rotors and pads were replaced in 2014, so I would like to be proactive and replace now rather than wait to hear the grinding noise. So I would like some recommendation on pads and rotors that would minimize brake dust.
The trailer brakes should be handling that task.

If you want quiet and low dust, buy OEM pads from the dealer. The manufacturer builds around customer satisfaction. They don't want a steady stream of customers back at the dealer under warranty complaining about noise and dust. Better braking performance is going to entail increased wear, especially on the rotors, and dust.
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:03 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning and thanks for the feedback. Got it on the brakes/performance/dust issue. The brakes I have on the LR3 now worked just fine. Also, I found the crack on the T-stat housing, it was on the lower right side where it connects to the engine block. This is where I was seeing the intermittent puff of steam. All is good and thanks again for all your reviews and suggestions.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 05:18 AM
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A couple of parting suggestions:

I would keep a close eye on temps and coolant reservoir levels over the next few weeks. These engines are notorious for losing head gaskets when overheated. With luck, you dodged the bullet and all will be fine. But, if you have a problem, it's better to catch it before it becomes a much bigger one.

I would also recommend one of the multi-gauges that plug into the OBDII port. They have a function that allows you to set an alarm. The temp gauge doesn't begin to move until you're already deep into a problem. The early warning might save you an engine- for under $100.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:24 AM Thread Starter
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Good morning. Good point CT090 and Yes, everytime I drive since the replacement of the T-Stat housing, I have been keeping an eye on the gauge. Thanks for the advice for the gauge on the OBDII port. Is this the same as the scanner tool or is there a different gauge you recommend. Any brand name?
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-13-2017, 06:39 AM
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Good morning. Good point CT090 and Yes, everytime I drive since the replacement of the T-Stat housing, I have been keeping an eye on the gauge. Thanks for the advice for the gauge on the OBDII port. Is this the same as the scanner tool or is there a different gauge you recommend. Any brand name?
A scan tool is for extracting codes from the engine ECU. The more advanced one's are capable of reading live data coming from various sensors, including temperature.

The gauge I was recommending plugs into the same port and does some of the same things, but its primary purpose is to supply a dynamic readout and warning alarms to the driver.

The one most people on this board recommend and use is this: https://www.scangauge.com/ Another is the Ultragauge.

Rover, as with their previous parent, BMW, uses a gauge that really isn't a gauge. It's an indicator light with a needle. It is not displaying a dynamic readout of the true engine temperature. It sits in the middle once up to operating temperature. Your engine could increase by 20 degrees and the needle won't move. If you popped a lower radiator hose on the highway, you probably wouldn't know until your motor was cooked. The Scangauge gives an audible warning on any input you select at whatever setpoint you choose. I'm not sure, but the LR3 may be able to provide trans temp data. That would be of particular use to you, pulling a trailer.
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