Ignition problems with 2006 Range Rover Sport HSE - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aachour83 View Post
I have fixed alot of these with that problem. I have found a fair amount of them have a bad ground on the passenger motor mount. Land Rover sometimes didn't drill the hole deep enough and it seems like the bolt is tight but it has just bottomed out in the threads. If that ground is good then depending on the weather you might have water dripping into your CJB(central junction block). Passenger kick panel area. There is a problem with the mouldings on the outside of the A pillars leaking water through the clip holes. There is a updated kit to reseal those mouldings. If you need the part number I can supply it. If that all looks good you probably have a bad ignition switch.
Even though I am not affected by this, I will be the only one that says thank you for the post.

Martin
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-06-2012, 06:59 AM
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Hi guy's not sure if this is connected but i have an 07 RRS and had the same non starting fault i changed the battery and the fault went away for 6 months, then the charging light came on and a series of faults came on the display, changed the alternator and all faults went away, seems like a slight drop in voltage is fatal to these RRs's.
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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 07-18-2012, 12:46 PM
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aachour33, I'm now experiencing this intermittent starting issue with my 06 RRSS. Can you tell me how to find that passenger side motor mount ground? I'm not sure how to search for it in the online tech manual. Thanks!
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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-11-2012, 06:50 AM
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Hello,

Since the 1st week of July 2012, I have been experiencing the same issues w/my 2006 Range Rover Sport (after having no problems since purchasing it in October 2006). The car has been in the shop 3 times in the last 3 weeks, and each time I pick it up, the "Vehicle Fault System Shutting Down," loss of instrument panel and entertainment system, intermittent failure to start, etc. continue to intermittently replicate. The 1st time the car went in the shop the dealer installed a new battery, the 2nd time they "updated software" and yesterday the dealer installed a new ignition switch. The issues replicated before I could get the car home (about 18 miles from the dealer) & then the vehicle didn't start for ~ 5 minutes (heard nothing but the click noise).

During the last trip to the shop, prior to installing the new starter switch, the dealer advised that they checked the battery ground, checked the central junction block for water but found none, and checked the mouldings on the outside of the A pillars, but found no leaking water through the clip holes.

What other solutions have any of you found? Please email me @ [email protected] or text me @ 202-744-7223!
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-16-2012, 10:26 AM
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my 2007 hse sport has had this same issue now for the 3rd time. It will work fine for a month or so and then one random morning all you hear is "click". It would sometimes fire up after the 3rd or 4th try but now nothing. It's not budging for a couple days....and then out of the blue, it starts up fine. Every time I finally get it cranked and into the dealership, they look at me like I'm stupid because they cannot get it to "replicate the problem" for them. I'll drive it on back home knowing nothing has been fixed and it will happen again soon. I had the battery changed even though the old one was only a few months old and that clearly wasn't the problem. Last time I tried to crank it so much it started popping up all kinds of error mssgs and then the air conditioner went out. $$$
I printed this whole thread topic out for them so they could see everybody's suggestions...but they won't take it serious until they actually see it not starting. Saying they won't blindly throw parts on it or don't want to mess with anything.
I'm taking it in (having it towed) to the dealership this week. It will probably crank up just fine for them when they get it, and if that happens and nothing get's fixed, I'm selling the thing while its cranking. I love my Rover to death and had just bought a new set of tires and rims for it, but I don't care how good it looks, if it's not dependable, I'm not wasting my time or money on it.
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-25-2012, 05:51 AM
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Add another to the list. My 06 has the same problem. Battery finr as well as terminals. Sounds like a ground issue like aachour83 has seen. Thanks aachour83 for the info, which I will take to my mechanic.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 09-02-2012, 07:08 AM
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I fixed mine! i have a 2006 Range Rover 4.4 with the same intermittent starting problems, it started with a few clicks then became progressively worse over 6 months. I read this post 50 times before but I found a few other posts similar and those posts said it was most likely the starter. I pulled the starter motor off and the housing to the starter motor cracked, so when I would turn the ignition on the starter motor was hitting the cracked piece and not engaging into the flywheel of the trans. That explains why it was intermittent since it would sometimes engage past the cracked piece. I bought a piece of shit remanufactured starter from Pep Boys for $170 bucks and it starts perfect now...
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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-08-2012, 03:33 PM
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RRSS starting issue

Thank you all for the posts concerning the RR starting issue. I've just experienced this same issue and my 08 RRSS is at the LR dealership now. The've diagnosed a bad starter. They've replaced the starter and wanted to keep it overnight. After reading these posts, I am hoping the they got it right. I'll find out tomorrow.
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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-09-2012, 05:29 AM
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just to follow up... I had a loose wire connection to my starter. The Mechanic said he had to rotate a full 3 times to tighten it. Could it have really been that simple? I had a local mechanic look at just my connections. The land rover dealership would have surely ripped me off! It has been a full 3 months now with no issues. One happy guy right here!
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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 02-12-2013, 01:27 PM
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not starting

I had the same non starting problem with my 2006 RR Sport. Myself along with a friend of mine found that there was a loose wire connector that connects to the starter. Its the wire that runs to the ignition switch. problem solved. I'm the one who noticed the wire wasn't connected when we dropped the starter and I'm not even close to being a mechanic!
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-26-2013, 04:07 PM
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I also have a 2006 RR sport. All my issues started about a year ago. It first started with the door locks locking and unlocking while all the dash lights coming on and it wouldn't start when this happens. I didn't realize until it was dark outside that the hazard lights were flashing as well. Earlier this year being frustrated we tried hitting the dash and this would make it work again. We took the cluster out and tightened the wires and the issues stopped for a good 6 months, now that the issue is back and it's gotten worse. Sometimes hitting the dash won't help and then the power steering goes out and it won't go out of first gear. Dangerous and extremely frustrating. Haven't taken it to a dealership, I'm in Alaska and our RR dealership closed. Just want to fix it and sell it.
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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 02:54 PM
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Hi i am having the same problem. I just try starting my 97 range rover at walmart and no hope. I had to walk home with my kids in a 103degree heat, though i live very close. My car lights are on, radio is on. But the dash broad is off and the car won't. Start. Not even a click when i turn the key. The walmart auto shop even try to jump but the battery but still the car won't start. So they are saying its not the battery. Am speechless.
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 08-22-2014, 09:25 PM
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What happens if you measure battery voltage at the battery when you turn the key - if it drops below 10 - then current is probably being supplied to starter motor - if not it could be bad relay ? Or ignition switch ? Bad ground - the problem might be less intermittent. I had similar problem on my 911 - apparently vet common - cheap plastic ignition switch behind the key - lucky that was only a $12 part and 30 min DIY fix - not sure how complex it is on these cars - starter relay should also be cheap to replace - the click could indicate bad relay ...
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-08-2017, 04:13 PM
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I have a 2006 RR Sport and am having the same ignition problem. Any suggestions?
Marcelo
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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-12-2019, 04:02 AM
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Cool Possible Solution to intermitent not starting

If you have the following symptoms , this might be a fix for you, and save you a packet of money!

1) Car will not start when turning the ignition key, and date/temp readings are ----- on the dash.
Waiting between 3 - 40 min for the temp reading to re-appear, with a beep, indicated the car can start again
Trying to start multiple times and fiddling with starter relays under the hood, on occasion seems to get the car going, but is nothing related to that, it's just co-incidence that it starts afterwards. Unless of course you have a bad starter motor relay or starter motor, but then you won't get the immobilizer effects kicking in.
I have found the fault is related to temperature, and just opening the windows or shielding the dash from heat can work.
You simply have to leave the ignition switch on, and when the temp read re-appears you are good to go.


2) You are driving and:
You hear the locks clicking
A beep
Entertainment system and aircon shutdown
Hazards come on
If you switch the ignition off it might not start
This fault can cycle intermittently on and off whilst driving

The fault gets worse over time, and with me being in a hot country South Africa, I noticed on a particularly hot day temps over 34Deg.C the faults completely disapeared.

The dashboard is terminated on the High Speed CAN bus, which seems to talk to other modules like immobilizer, entertainment, zircon etc, and the system goes in to lockdown mode, if communication is disrupted. The main symptom is that the dash no longer receives the outside temp reading, which is quite telling, I have no idea what part of the car sends the temp readings.

The diagnosis approach I used, once it was fairly certain the fault was intermittent, temperature related, and dashboard related, was to strip out the dashboard, remove its rear cover, then connect it back balanced over the rear of the steering wheel.

Just being more exposed to the air temperature, listened the symptoms . Using a can of Freeze use to isolate thermal related dry joints in electronics, spraying different places when the fault appeared, eventually lead to the corner of the MCU chip 64F2638F20 which is in a 128 pin Quad Flat Pack (QFP) format. Pins 37/38 HRxD1/HTxD1 seem to be the culprit, from where the bus emanated. Scanning the chip with a thermal infrared thermometer showed a distinct hotspot on this corner, no bought related to the power to drive the high speed bus. The obvious conclusion is that the thermal cycling of the part had causes a joint on one of these pins to fail intermittently, and a quick spray of freeze in this area, caused the fault to go away after about 15-30 seconds. Possibly because the high speed bus protocol had to re-establish itself.


I had some links but am unable to submit on a first post

So the fix, is to re-solder pins 37/38, which are on the lower RHS as you look at the QFP. They are covered in a conformal coating, which disintegrates with heat, so running the dry soldering iron over the pins, removes the coating, and then with a wetted tip. you can re-flow the two joints. I found i best to work through my iPhone with camera zoom at max, or there was no chance to get this right. Make sure you don't form a solder bridge between the pins.

This process of diagnostics, took several months, and having the can of freeze on hand, made the problem way less severe with a workaround.

I hope this can be useful to some of you, and I realize you may need to get the help of someone handy with a soldering iron and good eye sight. If not your local electronic repair shop, could also be contacted to reflow the joints for you.

I believe repacking the dashboard is in the region of $1,500 and requires specific programming, and transferring the milage back, so not really a weekend swap out. I also found the scrap people only wanting to sell all the other immobilizer components with the dash.

Good Luck.
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