01 Discovery 2 engine noise. Lifters vs slipped sleeve? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 08:49 AM Thread Starter
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01 Discovery 2 engine noise. Lifters vs slipped sleeve?

https://youtu.be/D-4VXlmqNrc
https://youtu.be/IkgEMccNruI

Posting for a buddy.
His 01 is making this noise. Click links above to see short videos. Hopefully one of y’all more familiar with this engine than myself can help.
Backstory: Started 6 months ago.
Happens when engine gets to running temp, not at cold start.
Any way to determine what the noise is coming from without ripping the engine apart?
Follow up is if it is a slipped sleeve what would be your course of action? Sinking thousands into a repair simply isn’t an option.
Thanks in advance for any input.
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Def110 View Post
https://youtu.be/D-4VXlmqNrc
https://youtu.be/IkgEMccNruI

Posting for a buddy.
His 01 is making this noise. Click links above to see short videos. Hopefully one of yall more familiar with this engine than myself can help.
Backstory: Started 6 months ago.
Happens when engine gets to running temp, not at cold start.
Any way to determine what the noise is coming from without ripping the engine apart?
Follow up is if it is a slipped sleeve what would be your course of action? Sinking thousands into a repair simply isnt an option.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Is it overheating?
Is it leaking coolant?
Is it Loosing coolant internally?
Is it misfiring?
Has it loss power?
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 09:58 AM Thread Starter
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No overheating issues.
No leaks oil or coolant.
No coolant loss internally from what I can tell. It has been run for 6 months with this knock and has not needed any coolant.
There was a misfire issue a while back, but I believe it to be attributed to a romp in the water. Hasn't misfired since.
I don't see a significant power loss. It's never been a fast car but it does seem a little slower when accelerating than some others I have been in. Couldn't say if that is attributed to this.
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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 10:23 AM
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No overheating issues.
No leaks oil or coolant.
No coolant loss internally from what I can tell. It has been run for 6 months with this knock and has not needed any coolant.
There was a misfire issue a while back, but I believe it to be attributed to a romp in the water. Hasn't misfired since.
I don't see a significant power loss. It's never been a fast car but it does seem a little slower when accelerating than some others I have been in. Couldn't say if that is attributed to this.
How many miles on the engine?

It could be a slipped liner that has not ruptured the head gasket, or it could be low oil pressure. (make sure its not due to low oil pressure) or it could be lower bearings knocking. If its not affecting anything I would not bother. Many have been driving with tick and tap noises coming from the engine which do not effect the truck. Mine sometimes has a tapping sound, But it runs fine. Try Rotella 15W40 oil see if that helps with the noise.
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120k. Original engine. Heads were just done about a year and a half ago by a Rover shop.
If it is a slipped cylinder liner I'm guessing if it is not fixed it will eventually cause a catastrophic engine failure? As far as I know that isn't something that you can keep ignoring forever.
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 10:34 AM
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120k. Original engine. Heads were just done about a year and a half ago by a Rover shop.
If it is a slipped cylinder liner I'm guessing if it is not fixed it will eventually cause a catastrophic engine failure? As far as I know that isn't something that you can keep ignoring forever.
You can get it diagnose by an LR Indy shop. There is a lot of info on slipped liners in this forum. You can use the search function.
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 10:39 AM
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I would add - what temperature does it run at?
If over 200 degrees (f) then I would deal with that first and switch to a 180 deg thermost, as well as a good flush and new green / regular coolant.

The oil isn’t a bad idea in warm climate.
Where in the world are you from?

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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Not sure what temp it runs at, haven't tested. On the gauge it sits right in the middle even when heading up mountain roads.
The car is my friends in Salt Lake City that I am visiting.
Can't run a warm weather oil now. I have changed oil before twice a year from warm climate to cold climate oil changes.
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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 12:46 PM
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Your temp gauge will never move until it is too late. By design it stays in the middle until your truck is overheated and then it moves; often that is too late to prevent a blown head gasket. It does not click, click, click up toward hot; it goes in one movement. You would be wise to go out today and get a third party temp gauge and watch the temps. Generally folks get one that plugs into the OBDII socket.
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Generally folks get one that plugs into the OBDII socket.
I went with this type. I got a ScanGaugeII.

I have this same tick right now but won't know what it is until I tear it down next month - I've gotta do my head gaskets and timing/oil pump then and my bet is it's my lifters not getting enough oil/pressure from my pump. If you haven't resolved your issue by then, I'll report back. S

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post #11 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 02:08 PM
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I went with this type. I got a ScanGaugeII.

I have this same tick right now but won't know what it is until I tear it down next month - I've gotta do my head gaskets and timing/oil pump then and my bet is it's my lifters not getting enough oil/pressure from my pump. If you haven't resolved your issue by then, I'll report back. S
Just read another D2 forum from New Zealand. I copied and pasted this info below:

I'm using Shell Helix HX3 which is a 20/50 - Oil pressure much better as well - runs at about 2.5 Bar when
warm.

From that article it seems that it could well be piston slap. They cured that by expanding the skirt of the piston.

"On that motor which had exactly the same hot rap we found the piston skirts had collapsed in about ten thousandths of an inch. That was enough to make them rock when they got hot, and they rapped good and loud.

On that engine we expanded the piston skirts and refitted the pistons. No more rap. But did that repair need to be done? Loose piston skirts would not lead to a failure. Ill bet that motor would have run 25,000 miles with that rap, maybe a lot longer. In any case, new pistons are the fix. Liners are not involved at all, unless the block were to crack when the head bolts were cinched down one more time"

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post #12 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info here guys, Looks like it's probably too much to tell. Sounds like he got quoted an obscene about to replace the engine or top hat gasket the engine.
Sounds like most shops won't pin a head if that is the issue.
I guess my only other question is if it is a slipped cylinder sleeve, how long can it be driven like that? He's already gone 6 months on there with no side effects other than an annoying knock at idle.
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post #13 of 25 (permalink) Old 02-25-2019, 02:28 PM
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Have you double checked for exhaust leaks? They can be mistaken for motor tapping, also another thing to double check is the flex plate.
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Have you double checked for exhaust leaks? They can be mistaken for motor tapping, also another thing to double check is the flex plate.
This sound only happens once car is warm and at idle.
Once warmed wouldn't the exhaust leak not be heard any longer?
The Flex plate sounds kind of like a loud rattle right?
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I have had exhaust leaks that got worse as it warmed up but generally I saw a snapped bolt with that.

One flex plate I heard that was bad I swore had rod knock it was so solid. Another was almost lifter tick like.
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