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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 05:58 AM Thread Starter
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Harmonic Balancer

Anyone know where to get a Harmonic Balancer for a good price (01 D2 SE7)? I'm finding them for about 500 USD on average.

Michael
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 06:20 AM
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Wow steep price!
I had to replace one on one of my trucks a couple years back, bought a used one for maybe $50.
As I recall they have an external balance weight on them ( could likely transfer the weight from your old one).
I likely have one in a bin somewhere but I’m in Canada.
I would advise contacting Paul Grant, I bet he could help you out with one.
If not P.M. me and we can work something out.
What is wrong with your old one? Slipped ring or cracked at the keyway?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by masantschi View Post
Anyone know where to get a Harmonic Balancer for a good price (01 D2 SE7)? I'm finding them for about 500 USD on average.
I thought only the Ford engines suffer from that. Old Ford Explorer, Ranger V6, LR3 V6 2006's with the Ford Cologne engine.
Dave

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 12-17-2018, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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What is wrong with your old one? Slipped ring or cracked at the keyway?
Yeah - I really want my heavy duty bumper and so I don't want to have to pay 500 on that vs the bumper, but will if I have to, obviously.

My current one has a very slight crack right now and it's not so bad I can keep using it for awhile longer, but it's starting to make a little noise now, so I know I"m going to need a new one sooner rather than later. The one that's on there now was used and lasted a good 6 years now... I may hit up Paul as I think he's basically rebuilt my entire truck over the years. lol

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 04:46 PM
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-27-2019, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by masantschi View Post
Anyone know where to get a Harmonic Balancer for a good price (01 D2 SE7)? I'm finding them for about 500 USD on average.
If you want new i think you can save some bucks if you import it directly from UK https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advance...ords=LHG000060

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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If you want new i think you can save some bucks if you import it directly from UK https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/advance...ords=LHG000060
Thank you Fery - I'll have to save that link. I do a lot of searching and sometimes don't really find what I want or it's 4 pages deep on a Google-Search and I overlook it. The old one is still 'ok' and considering I only use the truck on the weekends and off-road, it'll probably be fine for a while.

That said, I was talking to Sobieski last night and this is going to be on hold for a little bit. My coolant reservoir cracked (1" crack about 2" above the outlet tube in the front) on Saturday. I ordered a new reservoir and cap which should be here on Friday, but, I'm worried I may have bigger issues going on here.

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by masantschi View Post
Thank you Fery - I'll have to save that link. I do a lot of searching and sometimes don't really find what I want or it's 4 pages deep on a Google-Search and I overlook it. The old one is still 'ok' and considering I only use the truck on the weekends and off-road, it'll probably be fine for a while.

That said, I was talking to Sobieski last night and this is going to be on hold for a little bit. My coolant reservoir cracked (1" crack about 2" above the outlet tube in the front) on Saturday. I ordered a new reservoir and cap which should be here on Friday, but, I'm worried I may have bigger issues going on here.
Mike, what's going on? What do you think its happening? Did it over pressurized? What temps has your truck been running at?
Dave

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 12:03 PM Thread Starter
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Mike, what's going on? What do you think its happening? Did it over pressurized? What temps has your truck been running at?
Dave
This should should probably be a new thread but I'll give some of the details here; I won't know more until the weekend. I ordered a new Reservoir and Cap and they are supposed to be here on Friday. When I get them, I plan to install and then perform a gas/pressure test at the reservoir to rule out that. I had to cancel dropping the truck off at the welders because of this... *sighs*

The facts -
1. Truck overheated last Spring (red light did come on). It was shutoff immediately
2. I changed the Water Pump, Coolant Reservoir, Cap, Hoses, Tstat and Belt.
3. Circumvented the TB heater plate by just capping everything off and running it from my Intake Manifold directly to my reservoir.
4. Since I had it apart, I went ahead and changed shocks/springs, and SS brake lines (has nothing to do with this but it's still something that was changed afterwards)

After that, it gave the following: 1590, 1171, 1174 and a 0306. As a result, I performed the following:

1. Smoke Test on the Intake Manifold. I found air to be coming from my valve cover PVC hoses AND the TB Heather Plate, where I had only put on a vacuum cap and hadn't clamped them.
2. Hose Clamped those rubber vacuum caps
2. Bought a PVC Kit and Replaced those as well as the baffle
3. Restarted and ALL the codes went away after a Drive Cycle, but were stored.

Took it over to the welder on Friday and he took the measurements and we planned for me to bring the truck back today for completion; however, I stopped at the Grill for 30 min and came outside to find a nice puddle on the ground. Opened it up and couldn't see where it was coming from but noted I had half a reservoir of fluid left and my house is only a mile from that Pub so I elected to drive it home real quick. Did such, put it in the garage and found the leak. Ordered the new part, cancelled my bumper appt, and am patiently waiting - but going through all the worst case scenarios in my head...which include buying a used motor and rebuilding it.

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

For Used RRC Parts: Paul Grant [
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 12:30 PM
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This should should probably be a new thread but I'll give some of the details here; I won't know more until the weekend. I ordered a new Reservoir and Cap and they are supposed to be here on Friday. When I get them, I plan to install and then perform a gas/pressure test at the reservoir to rule out that. I had to cancel dropping the truck off at the welders because of this... *sighs*

The facts -
1. Truck overheated last Spring (red light did come on). It was shutoff immediately
2. I changed the Water Pump, Coolant Reservoir, Cap, Hoses, Tstat and Belt.
3. Circumvented the TB heater plate by just capping everything off and running it from my Intake Manifold directly to my reservoir.
4. Since I had it apart, I went ahead and changed shocks/springs, and SS brake lines (has nothing to do with this but it's still something that was changed afterwards)

After that, it gave the following: 1590, 1171, 1174 and a 0306. As a result, I performed the following:

1. Smoke Test on the Intake Manifold. I found air to be coming from my valve cover PVC hoses AND the TB Heather Plate, where I had only put on a vacuum cap and hadn't clamped them.
2. Hose Clamped those rubber vacuum caps
2. Bought a PVC Kit and Replaced those as well as the baffle
3. Restarted and ALL the codes went away after a Drive Cycle, but were stored.

Took it over to the welder on Friday and he took the measurements and we planned for me to bring the truck back today for completion; however, I stopped at the Grill for 30 min and came outside to find a nice puddle on the ground. Opened it up and couldn't see where it was coming from but noted I had half a reservoir of fluid left and my house is only a mile from that Pub so I elected to drive it home real quick. Did such, put it in the garage and found the leak. Ordered the new part, cancelled my bumper appt, and am patiently waiting - but going through all the worst case scenarios in my head...which include buying a used motor and rebuilding it.
Up to where do you fill the Expansion tank? 1.All the way to the top? or to the fill line when cold? Its possible that the expansion tank was faulty or the cap. I am hoping its not gases or a cracked block. I had an old D2 once that went to the red. But it was fine I drove it till over 200K +with a rear external head gasket leak. What temps where you reading before this with the scan?
Dave
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1991 Range Rover Classic Green 'The Turtle' 200K+ miles (Sold)
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Up to where do you fill the Expansion tank? 1.All the way to the top? or to the fill line when cold?
Funny that. Prior to this, I always just opened up my breather and then filled the tank till it came out of the breather. I was on the phone with DiscoMike one time, working on a HG job on my old one, and he was the one that told me to do that - and it worked...<shrugs>. This time, I actually did the Shop procedure and left the fluid down at the mark. I'm going to fiddle a little more with it once I get the new tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariDave View Post
Its possible that the expansion tank was faulty or the cap. I am hoping its not gases or a cracked block.
I'm hoping it was just a faulty tank or cap too. My cap did not 'click' when I put it on last time and just torqued down so it's possible - but then, it was a new cap and there shouldn't be any reason for it to already be bad? I don't want it to be a HG job, or a cracked block, though I'll take the former over the later obviously. Regardless, if it's either, I may still just pull the whole thing and rebuild it. It couldn't hurt to put a new timing chain in it, new oil pump, etc... I've been putting those things on hold for 200K but may just do it now if it comes down to it.

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

For Used RRC Parts: Paul Grant [
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariDave View Post
Up to where do you fill the Expansion tank? 1.All the way to the top? or to the fill line when cold?
Funny that. Prior to this, I always just opened up my breather and then filled the tank till it came out of the breather. I was on the phone with DiscoMike one time, working on a HG job on my old one, and he was the one that told me to do that - and it worked...<shrugs>. This time, I actually did the Shop procedure and left the fluid down at the mark. I'm going to fiddle a little more with it once I get the new tank?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SafariDave View Post
Its possible that the expansion tank was faulty or the cap. I am hoping its not gases or a cracked block.
I'm hoping it was just a faulty tank or cap too. My cap did not 'click' when I put it on last time and just torqued down so it's possible - but then, it was a new cap and there shouldn't be any reason for it to already be bad? I don't want it to be a HG job, or a cracked block, though I'll take the former over the later obviously. Regardless, if it's either, I may still just pull the whole thing and rebuild it. It couldn't hurt to put a new timing chain in it, new oil pump, etc... I've been putting those things on hold for 200K but may just do it now if it comes down to it.
Here's where it cracked... Right on that seam, but left to right vs up/down.
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Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

For Used RRC Parts: Paul Grant [
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-28-2019, 01:36 PM
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Funny that. Prior to this, I always just opened up my breather and then filled the tank till it came out of the breather. I was on the phone with DiscoMike one time, working on a HG job on my old one, and he was the one that told me to do that - and it worked...<shrugs>. This time, I actually did the Shop procedure and left the fluid down at the mark. I'm going to fiddle a little more with it once I get the new tank?



I'm hoping it was just a faulty tank or cap too. My cap did not 'click' when I put it on last time and just torqued down so it's possible - but then, it was a new cap and there shouldn't be any reason for it to already be bad? I don't want it to be a HG job, or a cracked block, though I'll take the former over the later obviously. Regardless, if it's either, I may still just pull the whole thing and rebuild it. It couldn't hurt to put a new timing chain in it, new oil pump, etc... I've been putting those things on hold for 200K but may just do it now if it comes down to it.
I never fill it to the top. I always fill it till the line. Let it cool over night and check it in the morning and fill it till its at the line again. Years back before the rovers I had a jeep Cherokee classic and I had the shop fix the radiator when I came back to pick it up I saw that they had over filled the expansion tank and the jeep was about to over heat. I had them turn it off and take out coolant till it was at the cold line. After that it never over heated again. There is a reason there is a fill line when cold on the expansion tank. I remember Mike saying to fill it to the top, I never followed that.
hope its just the expansion tank. Let me know how it goes. Heading back to the Caribbean on Wednesday morning. Been driving my LR3 2005 V8 for the past 3 weeks here in NYC best Rover ever. Had it now for over 7 years super reliable never an issue. Just sit and drive. If my D2 engine craps out on me and its expensive to replace I am just getting another LR3 V8.

Dave

The City is a Jungle.
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1999 LR Disco II SD7 White 150K miles 'The Beach Boy' (PR truck)
2005 LR3/ D3 SE 4.4 Bonatti 'Fancy Professor' (my girl's LA LR3)
2005 LR3/ D3 SE 4.4 Bonatti 'The Rhino'
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(my NYC LR3)
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1991 Range Rover Classic Green 'The Turtle' 200K+ miles (Sold)
1988 Range Rover Classic White 'The Rust Bucket' (Sold)
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-12-2019, 04:44 PM
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Here's where it cracked... Right on that seam, but left to right vs up/down.
How is your D2 doing?

Been in PR, thinking I should Replace vis Fan and AC Fan. Was off roading through a beach area driving very slow and saw temps rise to 200F. DOn't want temps too rise any higher.
Dave

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Present Land Rovers
1999 LR Disco II SD7 White 150K miles 'The Beach Boy' (PR truck)
2005 LR3/ D3 SE 4.4 Bonatti 'Fancy Professor' (my girl's LA LR3)
2005 LR3/ D3 SE 4.4 Bonatti 'The Rhino'
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(my NYC LR3)
De-tangoed Headlights, LR4 Style Grille, Dueler Alenza HL 255/55/19

Past Land Rovers
1999 LR Disco II SD Niagara Grey 'Old Rhino' 200K+ miles (Sold)
1991 Range Rover Classic Green 'The Turtle' 200K+ miles (Sold)
1988 Range Rover Classic White 'The Rust Bucket' (Sold)
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How is your D2 doing?

Been in PR, thinking I should Replace vis Fan and AC Fan. Was off roading through a beach area driving very slow and saw temps rise to 200F. DOn't want temps too rise any higher.
Dave
Tested positive for exhaust gas. I don't have a fluid leak I can see, but I can smell it. I'm getting intermittent 1590, Misfire in 6 [accompanied by a 1590] and then 1171 & 1174. I've performed a smoke test and there's no further leaks in the plum after replacing the pvc hoses and capping off the heater plate inlet/outlet. I've been driving it now because the BMW is in the shop till Friday and it's driving ok except for a bit of a shake at around 30-35 mph which I'm thinking is probably because of that misfire. Once I get the bimmer back, I'll buck up for the gasket kit (on sale at AB right now) and start breaking it down. Probably going to go ahead and knock out my timing since I'm gonna be working on it (saw a small leak from that front seal).

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

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