Which Hayden Fan Clutch 2781 or 2991? - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-16-2019, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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Which Hayden Fan Clutch 2781 or 2991?

I want to replace the old Fan Clutch on my Discovery II, I believe is the original and looks like it might need replacing.
Which is the best for hot climate idling? The Hayden Heavy Duty 2781 or the Severe Duty 2991? (I have a 2991 in it's original Box new for about 8 years now and I have never used) And what is the difference between them?
Thanks,
Dave

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 08:29 AM
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2991 is the HD clutch. I have both types. The HD clutch definitely sounds like a dump truck and moves more air at lower speeds.


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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 09:13 AM
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Why do you think it needs replacing? When you cut the engine off, does your fan blade spin a bit?
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-24-2019, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tyl604 View Post
Why do you think it needs replacing? When you cut the engine off, does your fan blade spin a bit?
I noticed that my temps when idling with the 180F Tstat in NY during the summer were holding at 194F/195F peaking sometimes to 197F, but coming back down to 194/195F. Months later it started to idle at 197F, then at 198F and not coming back down to 194/195F and recently it peaked to 200F then 202F. But as soon as I drive the temps will come back down, if on highway to 186/188F. Also if I was going up a steap hill it will also be at 188F. After some research it seems that its an early sign that the Fan Clutch is going bad if its not bringing the temps back down on idle, luckly I have a Haynes 2991 Severe Duty Fan Clutch new in a box that I had purchased for my old D2 that I sold 8 years ago. So when I go down to PR at end of April when doing the oil change I will replace the old fan clutch for the new one and see how the temps are when idling. I also have a new water pump in a box just in case. Also the AC could have more power and cool better. I have a feeling its the Fan Clutch. It's about 20 years old now if its the original. I rather catch it early than too late of course. Besides that, the truck has been driving well and seems to like its tropical new home. We have 3 Rovers in three different places LOL so I want to make sure they are all running well. They have all been good to us.
Dave

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 05:30 AM
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I added a new coolant reservoir pressure cap, Hayden #2781 Premium Fan Clutch, Dorman #620-112 Radiator Fan & 180 degree thermostat.
My temps went from highs near the 230's down to 193 with the new cooling parts.

MIKE
- 2001 Discovery 2 SE (NAS LHD) “MYRTLE”, 110K miles, 4.0L V8, NGK Iridium IX plugs, PCV mod, 180* T-stat, Hayden fan clutch/Dorman fan, removed TBH, modded SAI filter, Safari Gard steel guards, Warn XD9000i winch, KO2 265/75R16 on steel rims, EBC rotors/Akebono pads, +2” TF lift & LEDs
- UltraGauge Blue, Foxwell NT510, Nanocom D2 V8 & TD5


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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r View Post
My temps went from highs near the 230's down to 193 with the new cooling parts.
230's?!?!

How the heck did you get the temperature that high without having issues? I use a 50/50 mixture and that type of temperature would scare the hell out of me... anything over 210 starts to scare me because I'm not a chemist and don't fully understand how much mixing changes the boiling point of what you put in, since straight water boils at 212F.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2019, 07:07 AM
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I’m not a chemist either and totally agree 230 is way higher that I would be comfortable with on these engines but FYI pressure and mixture both change boiling points.
Read this

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/tech...ling-point.pdf

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Originally Posted by masantschi View Post
230's?!?!

How the heck did you get the temperature that high without having issues? I use a 50/50 mixture and that type of temperature would scare the hell out of me... anything over 210 starts to scare me because I'm not a chemist and don't fully understand how much mixing changes the boiling point of what you put in, since straight water boils at 212F.
LOL and I am freaking out about peaking to 200/202F. 230F is a done engine.
Dave

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 09:39 PM
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I posted a response to this question on the other forum. Here was my response:

My advise to you learned the hard way... is this -

1) Purchase the cheapest fan and clutch money can buy
2) Purchase the strongest battery you can afford (I just purchased and installed an Odyssey 2150 4 terminal battery which cost $500)
3) Convert to an electric fan setup immediately
4) THROW FAN AND CLUTCH INTO THE TRASH WHERE THEY BELONG

If you don't ..... you risk what happened to me last month ... happening to you.... the fan explodes (Explodes for unknown reasons!) your entire engine is now shredded .... thousands in repairs. All the oil pours out in seconds because the filter and/or oil lines gets stabbed by fan shrapnel ... you have 5-10 seconds to shut it off before the engine is destroyed forever .... hard to do if your in traffic or can't get off the road for whatever reason. All the coolant pours out in seconds because all the hoses come apart.. the temp skyrockets and you need a possible . head gasket job after it overheats.

Everyone on these forums talks about how important the drive shaft and other things are. I never saw anything about fans exploding until after it happened to me at the worst possible time /place - on Top of Mt. Charleston at night ... in the middle of a single digit national weather alert snowstorm .. GET RID OF THE FAN AND CLUTCH UNLESS YOU WANT YOUR ROVER DESTROYED! 1 month later I'm still ordering parts and this has cost me thousands in repairs and I still don't know if it will run the same. Per mechanic there is no way to know if the sudden loss of oil and coolant affected it .. until after it's fixed. I AM LOOKING AT $5,000 in REPAIRS.

I have a 1999 Land Rover Discovery II. Prior to this my Land Rover ran like a Champion. I got high flow cats. The cats must of been faulty because I got an instant MPG increase, instant HP increase and the Rover Purred like a cat. It a Rythmic Purr. It was like a brand new car. I am not even kidding. Now it does not sound the same at all - and I will be lucky if I do not need a new engine. Here is a short list of everything the fan destroyed when it failed:

1) Oil Line - Destroyed
2) Transmission Line -Destroyed
3) Oil Filter - Destroyed
4) 100% aluminum radiator Destroyed (Alli Sport Copy) (1 line was clipped and I'm told there is no way to fix it the entire rad must be replaced)
5) MAF Destroyed
6) Upper Intake Destroyed (MAF Bulb destroyed so entire thing must be replaced)
7) Air Housing Box Destroyed (Clips destroyed, hole in box)
8) All Front Coolant Hoses Destroyed
9) Coolant Reservoir appears destroyed but I don't know how because it was not in the trajectory of the fan shrapnel
10) Thermostat - Destroyed
11) Hood - HOLE
12) Fan Shroud - Destroyed
12) Alarm System Compromised somehow after letting battery drain out on side of road waiting for a tow truck (I had the heat on and was using the electronics). I am told alarm must be reset at Dealership only. And we don't know if it will work because the electrical system appears to be compromised now with lights flickering up and down the guy said that is not normal)
13) Somehow the AC Fuse was shorted out (don't know if this was from the fan or a coincidence.


Fan explosion ripped the hoses off and stabbed the oil filter resulting in loss of coolant and oil in seconds. Oil sprayed everywhere over the engine coating everything is a nasty mix of oil, coolant and trans fluid, The oil light is also on now even though there is oil in the car. Not sure if these means the pump is screwed or what.

In short my Rover is now ROYALLY SCREWED!!

I am ordering parts and dumping buckets of cash into it now. I had to find mechanic in Las Vegas who would let me purchase my own parts. The first mechanic I talked to (recommended on another forum) actually had the gall to tell me to return 1200,00 GBP of parts back to UK (and pay for shipping and a restocking fee) citing shop policy. This would allow my Rover the privilege of being worked on in her shop. And I would pay them for parts + shop markup. Whatever they decided to use of course. Oh, and it would all be new 100% authentic Rover parts. Because they said so. And they are not like the other 4 mechanics I caught telling me the same thing - and putting scrap yard parts in my Rover. And I should trust them. Because they said so. Needless to say I was forced to use another mechanic who would allow me to use my own brand new parts so I could have the security of knowing new parts were being put into the Rover.


Please do not let your Rover become like mine. The Fan and Clutch disaster was really not emphasized enough (or I missed reading it) on the forums. Had I known this was the threat I would have replaced it just like the drive shafts and other parts as preventative maintenance. This should be just as important of not more - than the front drive shaft.


There are more. You can read this guy replaced the Fan ... clutch ... and water pump - and it still blew up. After reading this and other threads it dawned on me - nobody knows the reason the fan explodes. It just does. If yours explodes and you get lucky and the shrapnel misses most things you might only pay $500 in repairs like the other guy or you might get a ruthless explosion like mine and be looking at $5,000 and the possible loss of your truck.

I cannot overemphasize how well my Rover ran before this happened. It was in near perfect condition. The purring sound after putting in high flow cats off and the the pickup in MPG and responsiveness is now not there.





Follow my advise and get rid of that fan and clutch.... or you will wish you did ..

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 07:24 AM
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FYI pressure and mixture both change boiling points.
Read this

https://durathermfluids.com/pdf/tech...ling-point.pdf
Thanks for the share on that Red - it helped.

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by masantschi View Post
230's?!?!

How the heck did you get the temperature that high without having issues? I use a 50/50 mixture and that type of temperature would scare the hell out of me... anything over 210 starts to scare me because I'm not a chemist and don't fully understand how much mixing changes the boiling point of what you put in, since straight water boils at 212F.
It was good thing I had bought and used my UltraGauge Blue to monitor my engine temps. The highest was 230 in Atlanta during the summer. The damn needle on the dash still showed in the middle at 230 degrees!!!
No problems with my V8 since swapping over 180 degree thermostat, 50/50 Zerex G-05 coolant, fan and clutch. I guess I caught it time.

MIKE
- 2001 Discovery 2 SE (NAS LHD) “MYRTLE”, 110K miles, 4.0L V8, NGK Iridium IX plugs, PCV mod, 180* T-stat, Hayden fan clutch/Dorman fan, removed TBH, modded SAI filter, Safari Gard steel guards, Warn XD9000i winch, KO2 265/75R16 on steel rims, EBC rotors/Akebono pads, +2” TF lift & LEDs
- UltraGauge Blue, Foxwell NT510, Nanocom D2 V8 & TD5


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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 08:55 AM
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OK - so after further reading on all of this, I cannot find the PSI for our Cooling System. I'm sure it's somewhere but I'm just not finding it. I've looked [or overlooked it] through the RAVE and just don't see it. Does anyone know what the normal Pressure is for our Cooling System - at normal operation? I know the relief valve on the cap opens at 20psi and the Coolant pump output is around 10psi, but am trying to figure out my true temp/boiling points based off of these details. One could venture to guess since the output of the Coolant Pump is 10, then that's what the system operates at normally and therefore, if your coolant cap does relieve pressure, you have a issue.

My cap opened up on me when it overheated last year. This indicates more than 20psi going through the system with 50/50 [not counting Royal Purple or WaterWetter] coolant concentrate to distilled water. The boiling point of 50/50 with this PSI is 275 - 280 F. Based off of that and the fact the gauge on Juke's truck didn't even move over 230, I'm wondering how close that is. Obviously since I didn't have my ScanGuage II at the time, this is all just for my curiosity at this point and is a crap shoot.

Aside from the 230 that Juke reported, what are the highest people have seen? I don't plan to test any theories, but having more true data than what I used previously, would help - especially living here in the desert.

Michael
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