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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-13-2019, 05:45 AM Thread Starter
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Long Blocks

I've had my second head gasket failure on my truck in the last 50,000 miles. The first was done by the previous owner and I can't complain about the last one that occurred because it did redline (light and all) and I missed the signs of the failed water pump thinking it was just old hoses, tstat etc. As a result, I'm left with a the truck that has 146000 on it now that needs a new set of head gaskets and a new front seal at a very minimum (leak on the front seal is small but should be fixed now that this is going on).

I suppose I'm looking for some opinions from you guys before I either do one of the following:

1. Replace the gaskets on the top end and replace the front cover and just milk it for another 50 - 60,000, which really should be a long time from now because I just don't drive the truck that often (especially when it's really hot outside), or
2. Get a Long Block

I'm torn because I know I can do option #1 for about $1,000.00 USD as long as there are no problems with the internals on my heads (though remember, I do have a misfire in 6 and I'm wondering what those rockers, etc look like). That would include gasket kit, head studs, pressure checking/testing heads and a new front cover. I'd probably go ahead and fully flush the cooling system at this point and switch to Blue coolant (I have a couple BMWs so it's just easier to have them all using the same coolant).

Option 2 is ideal knowing that I'm planning to keep the truck but things are tight right now. I'm not in any hurry to fix it but if I go with the long block route, it'll probably be next year about this time before I can really justify spending 6K on a Long Block, unless there are other options out there besides the AB Long Block?

All opinions are welcome and wanted on this but please list out your reasonings so I can fully see your point of view...

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-14-2019, 04:15 PM
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Tough call.
I went through similar on my 2000 and then again on my 2002.
It meant the end on the 2000 (rough truck, lots of rust and high mileage)
It meant a full rebuild on the 2002.
I have a local engine rebuilder that I have been dealing with regularly for about 20 years and he has substantial experience with aluminum / sleeved blocks. I was comfortable having him rework my block, recondition the heads etc.
I purchased almost everything from Turner Engineering in the U.K. (Darton sleeves, rings bearings, timing set, oil pump etc.)
I did all the labour including the majority of the engine re assembly.
Was still about $4500 Canadian BUT
Has been nothing but oil changes for almost 3 years (everyday use)

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Was still about $4500 Canadian BUT
Has been nothing but oil changes for almost 3 years (everyday use)
You hit on every reason I'm wanting to do it AND not wanting to do it. When I was changing out my rear shocks and springs, I noticed a big junk of rust/hole on my rear frame. I had this same problem with my 99, except on the front. So I'm trying to decide, do I just get rid of this one and start looking for another that is a AZ truck, OR stick it out, replace the engine etc. or just keep the truck, do a head gasket job on it and drive it till it's done because of the rust.

You literally touched on everything that has me waffling and why I haven't pulled the trigger in any general direction.

Michael
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 07:00 AM
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My 2002 was a California truck and super clean -no rust
A rare find in Southern Ontario.
If not for the overall condition I would not have put that kind of work and money into it.
Hard call and clean trucks are getting harder to find

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 11:22 AM
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I say do the head gaskets for $1000. that way you find out in what condition that engine is in and you can drive it another 50K or so.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-15-2019, 12:15 PM
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I guess head gaskets would do as long as there IS a definitive fault found with the gasket. If not your problem may lie elsewhere.

Mine started out as a #4 misfire and difficulty bleeding the cooling system after a pump failure and overheat (previous owner)

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019, 06:35 AM Thread Starter
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I guess head gaskets would do as long as there IS a definitive fault found with the gasket. If not your problem may lie elsewhere.

Mine started out as a #4 misfire and difficulty bleeding the cooling system after a pump failure and overheat (previous owner)
Overheat was also due to a bad water pump. Prior to the Overheat, I had a hose burst and those were as old as the pump but I just figured it was time to change those hoses, tstat etc. I had assumed since I put a new pump in back in 2013 with a completely new cooling system and HGs, fluids etc, the pump was fine - that's what I get for assuming AND not having bought a $130 water pump vs a $80. Since it overheated, I've got that #6 Misfire with the Air Leak in both banks (1171 and 1174). Like you, I cannot get all the air bled out of the system either...

Michael
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 01:07 AM
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Overheat was also due to a bad water pump. Prior to the Overheat, I had a hose burst and those were as old as the pump but I just figured it was time to change those hoses, tstat etc. I had assumed since I put a new pump in back in 2013 with a completely new cooling system and HGs, fluids etc, the pump was fine - that's what I get for assuming AND not having bought a $130 water pump vs a $80. Since it overheated, I've got that #6 Misfire with the Air Leak in both banks (1171 and 1174). Like you, I cannot get all the air bled out of the system either...

Did you have an ultra gauge with the alarm ?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2019, 01:19 AM
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I found this online:

https://www.lowmileageparts.com/1999...e-P310498.aspx

Not sure if this has top hat liners ...

I was thinking about buying it in case my engine is damaged. I am not sure what the catch is .... engine looks wonderful and the price is right ..
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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Did you have an ultra gauge with the alarm ?
No, not at the time. This is what prompted me to get one. Expensive mistake, though my engine needed some love I suppose as I had a small leak in my front cover and needed to do the timing/oil pump anyhow [146,000 Mi on the truck w/o doing those], so no biggie. This will give me a opportunity to go in and fix some things that have been bugging me a little, minus doing a full bottom end rebuild (bottom end is running really well and should be fine for another 100,000 Mi, near as I can tell). If the bottom end does end up needing something too, I've been doing quite a bit of reading and I'm probably just going to stop at that point, junk the V8 Petrol and do a TD5 swap because she'll be down for a year at that point - once it's over 100F here in Phoenix, I'm not doing any wrenching in my garage.

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Originally Posted by WLADiscoII99 View Post
I found this online:

https://www.lowmileageparts.com/1999...e-P310498.aspx

Not sure if this has top hat liners ...

I was thinking about buying it in case my engine is damaged. I am not sure what the catch is .... engine looks wonderful and the price is right ..
No clue on this. It 'appears' to just be a used Long Block, in which case it is WAY too much money. For a USED Long Block, you should only really be spending 1000 USD or less, to 'your' address? The last time I bought a used Long Block [for my '99] was in 2010 or so and I paid 1200 USD back then for it, and that was shipped to my home address, AS IS. I see them on Ebay all the time for around 500 or so, plus S&H, which if you have a friend with a business you can have it shipped to, you're good to go with freight at about 200 USD or less?

WLAD, it's 6 of 1, half-dozen of another on this. If you aren't doing the work yourself for a swap, it's probably just going to be too much money bro? I don't mind spending money on these things because it's my Tonka and I do all the wrenching myself, so it's always parts only, minus some machine work. Whereas someone who is spending cash to have someone else do the work...ouch. Taking that into consideration, you are going to spend a lot less money if you just buy another one and swap over the stuff you wanna keep, giving you the opportunity to do things a little differently if you desire.

Just my humble opinion...It's free for what it's worth.

Michael
'01 LR Disco II SE7


R.I.P. - 99 LR Disco Series II

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 08:44 AM
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I'm in the same boat. I need a donor engine. My engine has several dropped liners which have just emerged for me for the first time. The previous owner did a monumentally terrible job of "pinning" the engine which I recently discovered when I dropped my oil pan. One piston was fouled by a pin sitting proud of the cylinder and another has a cracked skirt from the same issue. Four of the pins are loose (no locktite) and backing out which has resulted in a cacophony of sounds from the engine as multiple sleeves came loose at about the same time. I'm not sure how a machine shop would do with plugging those holes. I think I would be better off starting a rebuild with a block that didn't have eight holes drilled in it. I've found some decent-looking engines on ebay but they want $1,500-$2k without all the ancillaries. If I went that route I'd have no ability to inspect the engine before buying and I'm not a fan of that. I'm going to try calling local junkyards this week and see if anyone in my town has an engine. I'll do all but the machine work on it including rebuilding the heads. I'm going to stick a hotter cam in it along with fresh injectors, etc. With properly secured liners and non-dex coolant I think it'll be a really good engine for a really long time.

My disco is rust-free, the interior is perfect and I've done quite a lot of work to it. I'm in too deep to throw this one out and start over with another that will eventually have the same dang problems. Stupid cylinder liners.

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2019, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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I'm going to try calling local junkyards this week and see if anyone in my town has an engine.
I wanna say either DiscoMike or PTSchram told me about a place around 7 or 8 years ago. One of them steered me towards someone in Kentucky who (in the tri-state region I think) had access to our engines. They are the ones I bought my previous used Petrol from and was 1200 to my door (I wanna say I had to pay 400 S&H because it was my personal address). It had about 60K on it when I got it and purred like a kitten. Midwest rust got the rear end of previous owner's D2 so my gain on that one till it got totaled the week after I put in the engine...literally. *sighs* I may even have the receipt in my toolbox receipts drawer if I go digging...deep. lol

I'll let you know if I find it and send it along here.

Michael
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:15 AM
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till it got totaled the week after I put in the engine...literally.
Oh man - I can't even imagine the heartbreak. That's my biggest fear just after I've done an expensive / time consuming "thing" to a vehicle.

If you can find that name I'd be very appreciative! I'm sure the price has gone up a little in the last eight years, but I'd certainly pay a competitive price for a good engine from someone who knows what they're looking at!

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-19-2019, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Oh man - I can't even imagine the heartbreak. That's my biggest fear just after I've done an expensive / time consuming "thing" to a vehicle.

If you can find that name I'd be very appreciative! I'm sure the price has gone up a little in the last eight years, but I'd certainly pay a competitive price for a good engine from someone who knows what they're looking at!
Yeah, it sucked. I really liked that 99. It was a loaded up Burgandy. I put the engine in on Saturday, buttoned it up on Sunday. Drove it to work on Monday to make sure everything was running well and gave the wife the keys that night. She drove it to work on Tuesday and while sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the highway, a text-r in a F-250 hit her at about 35 Mph. He hit her so hard that stereo came out of the dash and her truck went up on the Ford Escort in front of her. The Rover was the only vehicle that was still running/driving after the accident but due to rust on the front frame and cross-member, which broke on impact, it was totaled out.

I did some searching and found his information:

Marty Powell [[email protected]]
301 S Lewis
Glasgow, KY 42141
United States
Email: [email protected]

Michael
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 09:16 AM
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Yeah, it sucked. I really liked that 99. It was a loaded up Burgandy. I put the engine in on Saturday, buttoned it up on Sunday. Drove it to work on Monday to make sure everything was running well and gave the wife the keys that night. She drove it to work on Tuesday and while sitting in bumper-to-bumper traffic on the highway, a text-r in a F-250 hit her at about 35 Mph. He hit her so hard that stereo came out of the dash and her truck went up on the Ford Escort in front of her. The Rover was the only vehicle that was still running/driving after the accident but due to rust on the front frame and cross-member, which broke on impact, it was totaled out.

I did some searching and found his information:
Oh man. I hope your wife wasn't injured!

Thanks for passing along his info! I've reached out to him via email. I hope he's still slinging LR engines!

----
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