Not starting "M" and "S" light flashed, Intermittant starting problems - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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Not starting "M" and "S" light flashed, Intermittant starting problems

Hi, I have a 99 Disco 2 with 85000 mi, I drove up a steep bumpy street and two lights manual and sport mode lights began to flash and went into limp mode. I didnt drive thru any puddles or rain in the past week. I turned off the car, didnt start, 5 min later started and no lights. then drove 15 min.

2 hours later started right up. drove about 15 min through stop lights and highway and stopped at a light down the street from my house and it stalled. i was also facing down a hill. coasted to the side and would not start for a good 20 min trying about every 5 min. NO LIGHTS except for the SES light that has been on prior for a bad O2 sensor. 20 min later started up and got me home. Battery connections look good and tight.

Any ideas i could test in my driveway. college student here going home for thxgiving and it is a 6 hour drive.... hope it makes it!!
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post #2 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-18-2009, 07:11 PM
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You have low voltage somewhere. That battery is bad, the connections are dirty, the grounds are not clean. It may give the outward appearnce of all is good, but it would be important to have those things checked by a machine that can measure the voltage at the battery and the alternator.

Most of your local auto parts people will do these tests for free, Autozone, Advantage etc..they want you to buy the new battery from them, cool, free installation.

In the picture below is the grounding to the body of the vehical you may want to remove the nut and use a brush or fine file to clean them up. I recently had the same issue and it was the battery. Replaced it and it is fine.




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post #3 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 09:50 AM
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x2, I was on the trail and it happened to me...Luckily someone in the group had rovacomm or testbook or whatever and said the same thing, the trans computer didn't like a low voltage when I tried to put the cdl on. Let the truck run with no radio/air/etc. for a good while and didn't have any problems the rest of the day, but it ended up being a bad battery (SLS conversion recently and the compressor had drained my battery one too many times before I could get the ECU switched to rear coils) and I just replaced it with a diehard platinum.

Good Luck!

2004 Discovery

WAR DAMN EAGLE!
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post #4 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by leeawalden View Post
x2, I was on the trail and it happened to me...Luckily someone in the group had rovacomm or testbook or whatever and said the same thing, the trans computer didn't like a low voltage when I tried to put the cdl on. Let the truck run with no radio/air/etc. for a good while and didn't have any problems the rest of the day, but it ended up being a bad battery (SLS conversion recently and the compressor had drained my battery one too many times before I could get the ECU switched to rear coils) and I just replaced it with a diehard platinum.

Good Luck!
It was T4. Which Diehard? PM2 or PM1

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post #5 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 12:50 PM
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You need voltage of 13.6 to 14.4 volts, if you don't have that then go to Sears and buy the new Blue marine 34 Series battery which is a deep cycle battery.




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post #6 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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So i just pulled off the terminals and cleaned them. the truck turns over fast and strong no sign of a bad battery, how can the battery still be the problem. Did yours just go bad all of a sudden? mine was never drained or died in the past 6 months. and after i put the terminals back on the lights are off but the truck will not start?

i read it could be a bad neutral safety switch or corroded connectors. does anyone know where to find the box under the truck by the tranny??

. but i need to figure this out asap i want to go home for thxgiving and not be left stranded....
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post #7 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 04:52 PM
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If it is cranking, it won't be a neutral interlock.


Check the inertia switch.

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post #8 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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gear position switch (xyz)?
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post #9 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 05:25 PM
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gear position switch (xyz)?
No, that is how it knows if it is in P or N. If it is cranking, that is not the problem.

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post #10 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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its definitely not the inertia switch, that happened to me once and i had to push it in to start. this problem is happening when i m driving, the car just turns off and the M and S lights flash. Then let it sit a while and if it feels like it will restart.
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post #11 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 05:39 PM
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then it might be the CkPS (crankshaft position sensor). There are a few threads on this failure lately.
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...se-help-36386/

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post #12 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-19-2009, 07:18 PM
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Run the truck up to autozone and have them test the battery or whatever else, they do it fo' free.

This one...

DieHard Automotive Battery, Platinum P-4 - Group Size 34/78DT (with exchange)


Why get the marine battery when this one is the same spec, cheaper, and longer warranty?

The PM-1 groupe 34 is 1150 CCA, but I don't think you really NEED that. This is my second battery with 800+ CCA. I ran the exide orbital for a few years but it died because I never could get somewhere to get the SLS switched to coils in the ecu and it just eventually drained the bat one too many times, but never had a problem other than that!

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post #13 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 05:25 AM
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eh, I like overkill.

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post #14 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 09:47 AM
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Have we determined a new battery is in order yet?


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post #15 of 27 (permalink) Old 11-20-2009, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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i tried to start the car it turns over but no kick at all last night before i cleaned the battery terminal the m and s lights flashed after reconnecting it hasent started since

Last edited by skylark27; 11-20-2009 at 02:18 PM.
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