Steam Cleaned Cylinder - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Steam Cleaned Cylinder

I have a 2000 DII with 117,000 miles and after pulling the heads I found that cylinder 3 was steam cleaned. I was thinking that the block might be cracked since it's an inside cylinder but after pressurizing the block to 35psi it doesn't seem to be leaking. Also the head gaskets seem to be good with no signs of a slipped liner. I also pressurized the head to 120psi and put it in a tank of water with no leaks. Are there any other things I can look for or test while the block is still in to find the cause?

Background on the issue. I was driving down the highway when it started running really rough. Then the temp spiked and it looked like a lot of steam coming from the tailpipe. I pulled over quickley, let it cool down and added more antifreeze. It seemed to idle fine without overheating but I only made it about a 1/4 mile before it did the same thing. I had it towed and it hasn't been started since. Thank you, Kevin
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 08:07 AM
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Sounds like just head gaskets. Get yourself some composite head gaskets & new head bolts and you should be good to go. Check w/PT on the forum he should be able to fix you up.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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I was originally going to replace the head gaskets but my concern is why one of the inside cylinders are steamed. My understanding is only the outside cylinders can have that issue since they are next to the water jacket but maybe I'm missing something.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 11:35 AM
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From what I hear a cracked block is bout the only thing to steam clean a piston. Hopefully PT or someone will chime in and be specific. I can tell you a pressure test of 35 psi sounds kindofa crappy test. At least 130 to get close to compression psi. You really need it dye checked and examined by a professional before you just go throwin stuff back in. They often leak behind the liners...this all info is from someone getting ready to do this. I havent actually encountered this problem but read every possible paranoia inducing thread
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-12-2012, 12:04 PM Thread Starter
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I agree, I don't want to put it back together till I know what went wrong. I can go higher on the pressure test for the block but I wasn't sure how high I can go before it will blow the freeze plugs out. Does anyone know what psi I can go up to?
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-13-2012, 12:43 PM
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PT could give you better advice...pm him maybe. Or hell call him and ask for advice then buy the parts you need.

I think a dye check is the for sure way to teat for all that but hell Ive never even thought about considering a problem like this until I bought my disco so my past mechanical experience is useless.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 04:19 AM
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50 PSI is about the max you'll want to pressurize a block.

Pressurize the block, put a halogen light near the block to warm it up around the cylinder in question, allow it to warm up and then start looking for leaks.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the suggestion, I'll try that this weekend. If by chance it still doesn't leak have you seen anything else that would cause a clean inside piston that I can check for?
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-19-2012, 12:32 PM
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Have you ever had oversize valve seat installed in your heads?? I've seen where heads have been machined to accept an oversize valve seat installed and the machinist cut into the water jacket (generic, not just related to Land Rovers). Sometimes it's not even visable and sometimes the heads can vary from set to set in the casting process & were talking a small amount, but sometimes just enough to make a difference where even a good machinist can cut into the water jacket & not know/see it. A head can be pressure tested and show no signs of leakage, but then exibit signs of leakage once installed causing a real head scratching session. What's not apparent when doing a head pressure test is it's not torqued on the block!! I've seen a head that passed a pressure test, but then removed and placed on a bare block with a blank gasket, then torqued to factory specs, pressure tested on the bare block and leaked like a screen door. So pressure testing a removed head is not always 100% accurate.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 11:00 AM Thread Starter
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Well the halogen light and 50psi confirmed the block is cracked, thank you PT. Now to decide what to do. I'm not sure if its worth fixing or if I should just part it out. They don't seem to hold their value much in my area.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 12:23 PM
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Sorry to hear the block is junk, if you go for a used engine, get in touch with P.T. or Paul Grant regarding a good used engine, be it a 4.0 or a 4.6.
If you opt to parts it out let us know cause there are always people looking for good D2 parts.




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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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What does a good used 4.0 normally go for?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-24-2012, 04:01 PM
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So where was the crack at?

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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-25-2012, 05:22 AM Thread Starter
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It appears to be near the intake side behind the sleeve in cylinder 3. It's hard to tell exactly where without pulling the sleeve but some soapy water confirmed the crack.
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