Hey guys, So i thought i'd just update you all on where i'm at with this problem..
I had a chat with the workshop fella, down at my local LR dealer. I made him aware of the recent Mechanical work i have performed, it took a bit for me to get his confidence - however after explaining my career in Piston engines, he understood that the car had been competently worked on.
He told me that he only ever changed oil a few times on a 4.0 V6 lr3 and stated that they we're rare out here in the outback. I forwarded my theory to him about the key/immobiliser/Red Light Blinking situation. He stated they "order vin specific keys direct from the UK" and then carry out a "Handshake" procedure using LR diagnostics. So i proposed to have my car brought in, to try out this "Handshake" procedure. He then went on to tell me That he was FULLY BOOKED - but at the same time was compassionate about my predicament, as any good old mechanic should be, and told me to go ahead and bring it in. (this was 5 days ago on saturday the 31st of May)
I Had my lr3 put on a flat bed, and taken down shortly before Lunch.... . . It was Sad to see it sitting on its Arse getting dragged off to the mechanic
He was quite vague with information on what his Diagnostics system could actually perform, but he was confident that they could pair the key to the vehicle.
June in Central Australia is peak Tourist season, and is extremely busy with retired caravaners and off road adventurers passing through or staying in Alice Springs - Also 2 days from now, over the 'Queens Birthday' long weekend, Alice Springs is host to 'Finke Desert Race' one of Australia's Largest Off Road endurance races . THIS TYPE OF ACTION
V V V
So with all that in mind, i've been patient and gave him until yesterday (wednesday) before i gave him a call.
So far he has gone through and checked pretty much everything that i have checked - CJB fuses, BJB fuses, Earth points, Fuel pressure. He Told me that he'd cleared all showing fault codes - and his diagnostics told him that the car was accepting and recognising the key, showing crank speed, airflow, etc etc. . . no more blinking light with key in ignition (apparently). However the car is still a non starter as it was when i had it at my place.
Here is the series of events when he tries to start it - which are EXACTLY the same as when i had it.
1) Key in ignition > turn to accessories > turn to crank > Engine cranks and keeps cranking even with starter position trigger disengaged > Engine does not start. (occasionally fires once for a split second)
2) With No.1 spark plug lead off and a spare plug attached to check for spark > when turned to crank it sparks ONCE and ONCE only. it throws out 1 spark then nothing hence the results from event 1.
The ignition system is receiving 12 volts - but only seems to produce spark on the crank to start circuit and not the "run" circuit.. . this what i decipher as a potential cause of the problem after studying wiring diagrams.
things to consider. . .
1) the dealer couldn't tell me whether the cam sensor showed functionality with his diagnostics ?
2) Is the ignition switch potentially the cause of this ? (stuck on crank)
3) Could it possibly be that the timing has been incorrectly reset ?
4) Worse case scenario i'm guessing is the ECM could be fried ? (would like to avoid jumping to this conclusion)
If theres any guys here on the forum that are in the Know, and could please share advice for this situation, it would be greatly appreciated.
I have my Girlfriends parents up from interstate, for the long weekend. We will have to cancel most of our plans if the "Black Beauty" is out of order. Embarassed Embarassed Embarassed
Any help would be greatly appreciated.