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Buying an 05 LR3 tomorrow and need some pointers

3K views 6 replies 6 participants last post by  lexor40cal 
#1 ·
I have searched and found a few threads on topic, but all seem to be old. Tomorrow I'm heading out to look at a 05 LR3 SE with the Jaguar V8. I'm looking for advice only on what to look for. What has been a typical fail? Are the transmissions strong? Is the Jag V8 reliable? I've read a lot of complaints about these vehicles, and been told not to buy it unless I can get the warranty. Well this one is off warranty but is a private sale and about $5000 cheaper than anything at the dealership.

Just looking for advice, what last and what fails. What to look for, what are some red flags.

I am very mechanically inclined, but am totally green when it comes to anything Rover. I was actually planning on buying a 4Runner when this vehicle caught my eye, and i can't seem to see anything else now.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
Just make sure everything works on it, from windows to the radio. They have loads of sensors on them, so fault codes come up on the dash should there be any, drive it for 30miles, cos if they have a code reader/resetter they can turn them off, but they always come back on within 30 miles of driving.

The keyless entery is a bear if the wiring harness is wet, check the passengers front foot well, make sure the underlayment is dry, preferably under the plastic sill trim passengers door opening, that is where the harness lays in a trough, and water sits here if the sun roof leaks.

Cycle the air suspension from access to normal to off road a few times, slowly, so you don't get the overheat warning. Drive it in off road, and make sure it comes down on it's own
Try all the special drive train programs, the trannies are strong, and if anything is wrong the special programs will let you know first.
Run it in auto and manually shift it.
Look underneath, see if the skid plates has been run aground or not.

Of course do the regular, look under the oil filler cap, if it is white/milky it has water in the oil (head gasket), look at the brake pad thickness, not that they are too difficult to do yourself.

Hopefully you have an honest seller and he will tell you what are the issues, good luck

:drive:
 
#4 ·
Before you write the check on the lr3 you choose, have inspected by an independent rover shop. This is usually paid by the buyer, expect to pay at least two hours labor. The inspection is two fold,

1. You find out what issues you may need to address in the near future
2. It's very easy to use the repair bill estimate as leverage for a better sale price. If you find an honest seller he or she will not want to pass off the newly discovered flaws to another buyer & should negotiate with more flexibility.

I debated over selling my Tacoma for an LR3 for quite some time, looking back on that now (almost 17 months) I was crazy to even make the comparison. Even with all the little issues I have with the LR I still feel it's a FAR superior product to the Toyota. Major plus that your mechanically inclined too, aside from the massive amount of wiring it's just like most any other modern vehicle to repair & maintain.
 
#6 ·
All great advice.

It seems like the '05 had more problems than the '06 and newer but that doesn't mean you are going to get one with problems.

See if the previous owner or the/a dealer has a copy of the service records for the vehicle. This will give you an idea of the type of work that was performed, if any.

Seems small but also check to see if the key is present for the hitch receiver.

You're gonna love your new LR3!
 
#7 ·
I have had might just on a year, it had 53k on it when I bought it
($20,000 out the door from a Nissan dealer, Kelly Blue Book $$25,000), it now has 69k.

Initial problem, central locking not working, Land Rover dealer made me buy 2nd key, $250 (nneded 2nd key anyway I guess), which was not the problem, then they fixed the bad crimp in the wire harness channel under passengers side door sill, $150, look for that first

@ 56k the air suspension air compressor went out, and in speaking to mech's, if you do not excersize the suspension on a daily basis this will happen, drop it everytime you get in/out, but don't cycle it too fast, as continual use will make it give overheat error and it will wait until it has cooled before running again. Dealer replacement $1100, used unit $400, but you have to ge the code rsest, dealer cost $100+

Dealer oil change, $135-$175. After a few hits at that, you realise DIY Oil & filter $35, set of ramps, $50. Plus you get hands on your ride, the few blots holding on the skid plates are easy to remove/replace

Today, tail gate actuator cable end broke, researched forum, read Shakytownboy suggested fix, 2 hours of blood sweat and tears, fixed & up and running.

I have to admit, I do like my ride, '05 LR3, it might be a little work, but "she's sure fine looking man, she's something else"
:buttrock:
 
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