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Electrical issues after reinstalling fuse/relay junction box

29K views 38 replies 14 participants last post by  DCL 
#1 ·
I had an issue with water entering my passenger side floor (U.S. model) because of a rotted sunroof drain tube. In order to install the replacement tube I had to disconnect the wiring harnesses from the Junction Box behind the glove box. Everything disconnected without an issue and I was able to remove the junction box, fit the new drain tube, and reinstall the 6 wiring harnesses I had removed. 2 on the back of the JB, 1 at the bottom, and 3 in the front. I've double checked all connections, except the back two, but they were seated good before I installed the box.

The issue I'm having is the sunroof and front left and right windows will not operate. I'm also receiving an emergency brake fault and sensors for the front and rear doors are tripping telling me the doors are open. From what I've been able to track down on various forums are it seems these are connected to the C585 wire harness slot on the JB. I've removed and reseated this connection but still have the same issues. The rear windows are operating fine.

Can anybody confirm if that is the correct harness I should be looking at? Any ideas of other items to check would be much appreciated. I'm pretty technical and able to troubleshoot basic electrical issues if someone has any schematics they could share.

I've attached photos of the JB. The C585 connection is in the upper right on the front facing photo.

Thanks,
Erik
 

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#2 ·
Join disco3 uk forum and ask there.
Also check for a warped cowl right above the Pollen Filter duct water gets in through there.
Dave
 
#3 ·
Thanks, I've posted there. The cowl looked fine. The source was the end grommet had dry rotted and fell off, so the tube was inside the car just draining water in there. That part should be fine now since I've installed the new tube. Seems like a poor engineering oversight to make it so difficult to replace a part that has such a high failure rate.
 
#4 ·
Exact Same Problem

Erik,

I am having the exact same problem after performing the passenger sunroof drain repair. Removed and then reinstalled the CJB and am now having the same issues. Sunroof doesn't work, interior light wont turn on/off, getting alerts that all doors and tailgate are open, front window don't work, parking brake fault (although it works) special programs unavailable. I cannot recall if there are others.

Did you get it sorted? What was the problem?

Thanks,

Philip
 
#5 ·
Guys, I hope you guys fixed it. I have the same problem after removing CJB and putting back the connectors. One of the connectors in the Rear if not properly seated or locked would cause that , sunroof not working, right and left front window not working, Parking Brake Error, There are probably more, luckily I called my indy mechanic and just told me that something was not seating properly in the CJB. Just like that I check the rear connector and it was not fully latch for lock position. These freak me out as I just got the LR3 1 week ago and I'm already attacking all these known problems. Luckily I never had any leaks, but just wanted to do preventive maintenance. But the original drain tube/nipple was there and it was done.

That was my case, the symptoms are similar, but some of you could have had some damage wire from water ingress.
 
#6 ·
I dont have shares in this believe me, i'm just using it since it appeared and never had water damage issues since, i highly recommend it
 
#8 ·
Hi, new to this forum. I know topic is a bit old but experiencing same issues and then some. Does it make a difference if the rig does not have the original head unit and amplifier that used the fiber optic cable for communication? Repaired my drain tube and when I installed the cjb all electrical gremlins came out. I can get it to turn on but only passenger front window works, only tailgate latch responds to key fob and when I turn lights on, weird buzzing sound coming from CjB. Re-seated all connectors and still the same. Thanks in advance for any info shared.
 
#10 ·
Hello, my name is Aaron, and I'm an LR3 owner...(Hello Aaron). I had sunroof leaks and windshield cowling leaks. After deciding a year was long enough to drive around with blue painter's tape all over the car I repaired the leaks. Replaced the cowling and sunroof assembly entirely, THEN started getting codes codes codes. It started with errors saying I had 4 bad ignition coils and one bad coil group. Mechanics #1 & #2 swapped the coils and got the same errors so assumed it was the ECU. Mechanic #1 said they also found some bad grounds and a zapped radio sensor. Replaced that Sensor. Same errors. Mechanic #2 didn't find anything mechanic #1 didn't already try. Both suggested, "it MUST be the ECM!" Replaced the ECM, all the same codes came back. And more. Mechanic #3 (!) found lousy wiring repairs done by mechanic #1 and re-repaired those. Also, just in case, replaced the ignition coils throwing codes. That issue was gone. But still getting constant dash system shut-downs, CAN bus codes and multiple parking brake errors. Said he was getting bad readings from the Crank Shaft sensor and Central Junction Box (I asked #1 & #2 to investigate the CJB but both gave me reasons why it wasn't the issue). Crank shaft sensor repaired, no improvement. Oh and I had them replace the alternator since most fail (or have failed) by the 150k I had just past. Central Junction box sent to "Module Experts" for Inspection / Repair. They found fried wiring on the board and are currently "assembling" a replacement from used parts. This has been a 6-month process. Waiting for the repair now over a transportation-less Christmas (I guess Covid is the best time for that to happen). Hoping we found the issue. Cause if the CJB replacement goes in and immediately gets fried again, there will be a very well equipped LR3 going up for sale. The lousy part of all of this is, the car is driving GREAT through this entire ordeal. Zero mechanical issues. Just a soggy fried brain. I wonder if anyone has stripped their techno-rover back to the basics. Seems like that could be an entire specialist service. Call it "Damn Fine Dumbed Down Rovers."
 
#11 ·
Haha. It’s entirely possible that water ingress boffed your CJB. If there was water pooled in the bottom, you took it out (and sloshed the water around inside) to repair the leaks, and reinstalled it with water in new places...

why not just throw in a used one from eBay? I swapped mine on both my RRS and my LR3, no biggie.

are you getting errors on the MS or HS canbus?
 
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#12 ·
I was told the CJB required VIN-specific programming.

Mostly Medium Speed But I believe it kicked out a high speed code at one point as well. not sure if that was from other modules calling in trouble.

Here's the full list:
Audio System
-medium speed CAN communication bus

Body Control
-interior lamps 1 circuit
-interior lamps 2 circuit
-lost comm w/inst cluster control module
-internal control module software incompatibility
-ignition system failure group 2
-lost comm w/vehicle immobilizer

Instrument Pack
-medium speed CAN communication bus
-lost comm w/ride level control module
-lost comm w/parking assist control module

Parking Aid
-lost comm w/instrument cluster control module
-lost comm w/ body control module
-internal control module software incompatibility

Parking Brake
-C1A55-64(A8) Unknown

Steering Angle
-lost comm w/ vehicle dynamics control module

Transfer Case
-V0155-87(2E) lost comm w/instrument cluster control module

Transmission
-V0155-87(2F) lost comm w/instrument cluster control module

Vehicle Dynamics
-V0155-87(2B) lost comm w/instrument cluster control module

Also in case this helps anyone in the future, DO NOT send any parts to "Module Experts" They are absolute criminals. Kept putting me off and finally said they couldn't find a replacement, Requested they return my original fried CJB (Cause at least I could drive the car with it installed but they say it got lost because I sent them a fedex tracking form, it was never picked up so now its just gone? Offered to return my $ but then didn't. I had to call the bank. Unbelievable.
 
#13 ·
I had a similar experience trying to use turner diagnostics in the UK. was without my gear for months, spent a fortune on customs in-out... ended up cancelling charges with the bank and breaking even in three months, complete nightmare.

anyway, I’ve swapped CJB on my LR3 and my RRS, never coded or programmed anything.
Reviewing your laundry list of codes, I’m having flashbacks of my RRS. I was getting 40+ faults from 16 computers when pulling codes. The IPC was at fault, so I tried to send it to “THE” LR specialists in UK, **** that. Finally got it back, and used it to code a second hand IPC for $80 from eBay.

the MScanbus runs from the OBD port to the IPC, every other computer is in between. If the IPC fails, all of the computers wig out because they get missing or corrupted messages.
Does your rig ever go into “crash mode” with the hazards flashing and no-start?
 
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#14 ·
I had a similar experience trying to use turner diagnostics in the UK. was without my gear for months, spent a fortune on customs in-out... ended up cancelling charges with the bank and breaking even in three months, complete nightmare.

anyway, I’ve swapped CJB on my LR3 and my RRS, never coded or programmed anything.
Reviewing your laundry list of codes, I’m having flashbacks of my RRS. I was getting 40+ faults from 16 computers when pulling codes. The IPC was at fault, so I tried to send it to “THE” LR specialists in UK, **** that. Finally got it back, and used it to code a second hand IPC for $80 from eBay.

the MScanbus runs from the OBD port to the IPC, every other computer is in between. If the IPC fails, all of the computers wig out because they get missing or corrupted messages.
Does your rig ever go into “crash mode” with the hazards flashing and no-start?
Yes exactly. "System shutting down" hazards flash, doors unlock. But still drives great. Its fine if it crashes while its running, but if not, I'm stuck in the grocery store parking lot for 45 minutes looking like a terrorist. I asked this question to the LR of North America Facebook group today and got six replies saying the same: "Its the instrument cluster" Best specific answer was "The instrument cluster is bad and is sending out a corrupted message across the can bus. Unfortunately the instrument cluster is a terminating resistor, so it can’t be unplugged for diagnostic purposes."

I Called Roverland Parts to ask why they only sell 2005 & 2006 Instrument clusters and they say too many people bought them and couldn't get them re-flashed with the VIN. Apparently at 2007 they started to make this a VIN-specific part. Was yours 2007 or later? Appreciate the help. Its been six months of car in the garage during covid with an antsy girlfriend and fear of the country imploding. Deep breath...
 
#15 ·
they're lying sacks of $H!T. I talked to my local dealer, they told me some similar crap, and tried to sell me a brand new cluster for $1475+labor+tax

they can be reflashed, it's just not a documented/supported process. I reflashed mine with my nanocom EVO, only thing that come out poorly was I couldn't carry over the original mileage. everything worked perfectly afterwards. I spent $80 (although I already owned the nanocom which was $600ish).

many people suggest that it's the solder on the IPC harness connection. I removed mine and reflowed the connector to no avail, and after having inspected it, I don't really see how that could've been the "likely failure point" at all, plus getting your needles back on correctly was next to impossible.

you'll either need a nanocom or GAP tool (can't help you with the GAP tool tho), a used cluster, and about 15min.
 
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#16 ·
Hey all. I am having similar issues, different symptoms. I have the GAP-Diagnostics IID Tool and they will allow me to take a used Instrument Cluster with less miles and program it to higher miles. It was and addition $40.00 USD. I have not done it yet but will this week when i get the used CLUSTER.

I did pull my relay junction box tonight to see if there was any corrosion because I did have major water issues because of the drain tubes tubes. I had all new tubes and the sunroof track replaced by the Freeport Long Island land rover dealer in NY.

I posted here what I have tried so far....

I did not go with the rebuild companies. Dealer by me wants 850 for cluster and my old cluster or extra 300 (core charge). I took my cluster apart and looked fine, as did the Engine control unit behind battery. So I will put the Central Junction box back making sure I seat it perfectly and clean connections with electronic cleaner. I have to ask GAP if I can Flash/Program CJB with the tool for sure. Probably yes, but i will confirm.

So thats where i am at with My 2009 L320 Range rover sport HSE-

Here is the info from other message board...

have some electrical gremlins. My symptoms is the instrument cluster while driving goes dead and then comes back and sometimes flutters.

Then it comes partially back on, fuel gauge take a little while longer to kick on.

Videos of symptoms

Electrical issue - Google Drive

drive.google.com
drive.google.com


So I am checking all the grounds points today off the main wiring harness. I did have some major leaks in due to drainage tubes in sunroof. changed all drainage tubes and sunroof track, problem solved. Wondering if this issue is somehow related. Here are the codes from the Gap IID tool its throwing, when it happens. B1A00-48. cant find any reference anywhere. Could it be BCM unit? All ECU Software up to date except Transmission. I am not updating that because it is working fine.

I did add a trailer wiring harness recently and when i connect it to trailer it pulses/flashes every 2 seconds. it was a genuine harness. I may just need to update CCF config, will test that too.

I did leave the sunroof open once too and it rained and I change shifter.

I have a AXCESS wiring kit for after market radio, but doubt that is the issue. i do see the U0184-87.


What I have done;

1. I have changed the battery and alternator to brand new. Voltage was fine from battery and alternator before and now
2. Visually inspected the Engine Control Unit behind the battery in engine compartment and in the 2009 model it is sealed in plastic rubber compartment. It was like brand new. I cleaned it anyway with electrical contact cleaner.
3. Hard Reset Didn't work, hasnt ever helped me!

What I will Try- Instrument cluster rebuild likely cause-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0NYMQOa7Ss



L320 - Range Rover Sport 2009
Vehicle scanned on 16-01-2021 11:44
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

Instrument Pack
  • U0184-87 (27) Lost communication with audio unit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:18:32 at 104018 mi )
  • B1A75-92 (26) Fuel sender 1 circuit - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:38:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A76-92 (26) Fuel sender 2 circuit - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:38:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A00-17 (26) Control module - General electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A00-48 (26) Control module - System internal failure - supervision software failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:32 at 104023 mi )
Steering Angle
  • C0051-62 (2E) Steering wheel position sensor - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:56 at 104022 mi )
Transfer Case
  • U3003-62 (2E) Battery voltage - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:56 at 104022 mi )
I did get my hands on a electrical reference guide I wanted to share.

drive.google.com

Range Rover Sport Electrical Reference 2005-2009.pdf

drive.google.com
drive.google.com
 
#17 ·
Hey all. I am having similar issues, different symptoms. I have the GAP-Diagnostics IID Tool and they will allow me to take a used Instrument Cluster with less miles and program it to higher miles. It was and addition $40.00 USD. I have not done it yet but will this week when i get the used CLUSTER.

I did pull my relay junction box tonight to see if there was any corrosion because I did have major water issues because of the drain tubes tubes. I had all new tubes and the sunroof track replaced by the Freeport Long Island land rover dealer in NY.

I posted here what I have tried so far....

I did not go with the rebuild companies. Dealer by me wants 850 for cluster and my old cluster or extra 300 (core charge). I took my cluster apart and looked fine, as did the Engine control unit behind battery. So I will put the Central Junction box back making sure I seat it perfectly and clean connections with electronic cleaner. I have to ask GAP if I can Flash/Program CJB with the tool for sure. Probably yes, but i will confirm.

So thats where i am at with My 2009 L320 Range rover sport HSE-

Here is the info from other message board...

have some electrical gremlins. My symptoms is the instrument cluster while driving goes dead and then comes back and sometimes flutters.

Then it comes partially back on, fuel gauge take a little while longer to kick on.

Videos of symptoms

Electrical issue - Google Drive

drive.google.com
drive.google.com


So I am checking all the grounds points today off the main wiring harness. I did have some major leaks in due to drainage tubes in sunroof. changed all drainage tubes and sunroof track, problem solved. Wondering if this issue is somehow related. Here are the codes from the Gap IID tool its throwing, when it happens. B1A00-48. cant find any reference anywhere. Could it be BCM unit? All ECU Software up to date except Transmission. I am not updating that because it is working fine.

I did add a trailer wiring harness recently and when i connect it to trailer it pulses/flashes every 2 seconds. it was a genuine harness. I may just need to update CCF config, will test that too.

I did leave the sunroof open once too and it rained and I change shifter.

I have a AXCESS wiring kit for after market radio, but doubt that is the issue. i do see the U0184-87.


What I have done;

1. I have changed the battery and alternator to brand new. Voltage was fine from battery and alternator before and now
2. Visually inspected the Engine Control Unit behind the battery in engine compartment and in the 2009 model it is sealed in plastic rubber compartment. It was like brand new. I cleaned it anyway with electrical contact cleaner.
3. Hard Reset Didn't work, hasnt ever helped me!

What I will Try- Instrument cluster rebuild likely cause-


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q0NYMQOa7Ss



L320 - Range Rover Sport 2009
Vehicle scanned on 16-01-2021 11:44
Using IIDTool BT V4.0 B2742

Instrument Pack
  • U0184-87 (27) Lost communication with audio unit - Bus signal/message failure - missing a message
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:18:32 at 104018 mi )
  • B1A75-92 (26) Fuel sender 1 circuit - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:38:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A76-92 (26) Fuel sender 2 circuit - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:38:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A00-17 (26) Control module - General electrical failure - circuit voltage above threshold
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:32 at 104023 mi )
  • B1A00-48 (26) Control module - System internal failure - supervision software failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:32 at 104023 mi )
Steering Angle
  • C0051-62 (2E) Steering wheel position sensor - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:56 at 104022 mi )
Transfer Case
  • U3003-62 (2E) Battery voltage - Algorithm based failure - signal compare failure
    ( on 16-01-2021 11:37:56 at 104022 mi )
I did get my hands on a electrical reference guide I wanted to share.

drive.google.com

Range Rover Sport Electrical Reference 2005-2009.pdf

drive.google.com
drive.google.com
found a youtube video



Okay- So I found some information. I can buy a used instrument cluster with less miles and flash it with GAP Diagnostics IID tool, about 175 USD for cluster and 37 USD for Flash from GAP. I own a Gap already (512 USD). or I can send it away for 300 USD ( ebay shop called - http://stores.digitalautotech.com/). I called the place in above youtube video https://dashboardinstrumentcluster.com/ and they have a location in Miami florida now and they want 600 USD for repair. I also found a repair guide in Russian (chrome translated it) I am going to tear down cluster (powerfulUK made a video how to tear down) and check solder joints and connector.

My green board is loose too. Dealer wants 842 USD and my old one back, just for the part. SO i have options. TLinks below.

How to remove cluster;


How to break apart Cluster


Discussion on Instrument Cluster on message boards- talk about changing with used, dry solder

https://www.rrsport.co.uk/forum/post580585.html
https://disco4.com/forum/instrument-cluster-intermittent-fault-167675.html?highlight=Cluster

Russian Post on how to solder chip in instrument cluster. (it could be connector as well) I am going to try this - If i screw it up, i can always go get one from dealer.
https://www.drive2.ru/b/499836887549084441/?page=0#comments

Fixing dry or cracked solder joint

 
#18 ·
I believe it’s an IC failure on the clusters, and not a dry solder joint I resoldered numerous connections on mine and it didn’t help
 
#19 · (Edited)
So i did purchase a used Instrument Cluster and programmed it with the GAP Diagnostics IIDTool. And it worked perfectly. Now I have one minor issue. When I purchased the used cluster, the menu was in Italian. When i went through the below procedure, it didnt set it to english. I tried changing the CCF to english and that didnt work. Reason why, i think, is that i pulled the Logic 7 radio out, for a kenwood , leaving top panel non-useable. JUst sits at the land rover screen. I ordered a new wiring kit that will allow me to keep the logic 7 in the Glove box and working and then it should work. The hard part is over and the new IPC is in and car runs and the gremlins are gone. I also cannot clear the service interval. I have a email to GAP, but likely if because head unit is out of vehicle. I have it and could swap it and try, but I will wait till the harness. @2reverendALC I did not go with rebuild based on all your feedback in this post. I had already owned GAP IID tool and boy did it pay for itself on this one. Used console for me was $184 with shipping and tax. $40 USD for programming update for IPC, fast lane service they call it.

Ready (from GAP engineering)

First, keep in mind that it needs to be the same model year range, 2004-2006, or 2007+ due to fascia changes. Odometer value can only be raised, not lowered and to a maximum of 262k km. If the car is higher than this value, the odometer value will not be raised.

Step 1: Update your IIDTool ( I did have a issue with this. I misplaced my original cable and tried 3 or 4 cables I had lying around till one worked. Keep your original IID cable)


-Connect your IIDTool to your computer
-Start the updater software
-Click on Find Device
-Select build 2742
-Click on Program Firmware
-Wait until completion
Step 2: In the vehicle
With the old instrument pack fitted
-Connect the tool
-Menu->Car Config, do not change any settings. Wait until CCF reading is completed.
-Leave the tool connected on the OBD port and mobile App connected on the tool. Do not disconnect the battery, the tool needs to be powered.
-Turn off ignition/remove the key


The following steps need to be done without delay between each other.
-Disconnect and replace the instrument pack with the new one.
-Turn ignition ON
-Restore the CCF backup to the new instrument pack (Menu->Save Restore->Restore Settings->Car Config...)

VIN Reset
-Menu->ECU Flash->IPC Reset, wait until completion
-Turn key OFF, wait one minute
-Turn key ON, wait one minute
-Try to start the engine, if it doesn't start, turn the key off, one minute, then on one minute. Repeat key cycling and delays until engine starts. It can take around 3 cycles before the engine starts

Finalizing

Menu—ECU Flash—IPC, select the desired version

Menu->Service Test->Instrument Pack->Synch odometer
Menu->Service Test->Instrument Pack->VIN Learn
 
#32 ·
doing stuff like this, it's not "dealer authorized" and really not even well documented. when I flashed my IPC (which I was told cannot be done), I had to connect my programmer to the truck with the old IPC in place, and power on. then loaded up the flash programmer, and got all the way up to the WRITE SOFTWARE step.. power off truck, swap clusters, power truck back on, and hit GO.

worked like a charm, despite all of the nay-sayers... and it circumnavigated all of the programmer's built-in steps to prevent this sort of tomfoolery
 
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#38 ·
no, I don't believe "sleep" is advantageous here. the purpose of this little dance is to allow the programmer to confirm that all computers are in fact the correct computers (sync'd to the vehicle). my nanocom queries the destination computer and does some "checks" before allowing the software to be written, and this circumvents the checksum error that an incorrectly coded ECU will give.
 
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