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LR3 - Replacing the suspension compressor

246K views 114 replies 47 participants last post by  Enaidabey 
#1 · (Edited)
How To: LR3 - Replacing the suspension compressor

Since I didn't find this information on the site, I decided to join and create a how to replace the suspension compressor thread. I hope this helps you all if needed in the future. I purchased my vehicle brand new on December 2005, when they first became available. I have not had any problems with it until now, off course, the warranty has expired :)

After a few days without a soft suspension on the LR3, I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor and install it myself. Total cost $530 (OEM compressor) and about 1.5 hours of my time.

Land Rover wanted $900 (retail) for the compressor and about 2 hours of labor @ $125 an hour + diagnostics, tax, shop supplies, etc..etc....... Bottom line, the job would have cost me about $1300 - $1400.

Tools needed:



Part # LR015303



Here is how it’s done.

The compressor is located in front of the rear drivers side tire next to the outer portion of the frame.



The first thing to do is to disconnect the battery, so that all electronic components don't kick in do to the auto leveling system.




Next, you will need to remove 3 screws that hold the compressor and remove the 3 air lines that are connected to the compressor. You will also need to remove two plugs that power up the compressor and transmit the signal to the computer.

*** The trick to removing the air lines is to hold the base plate flushed against the compressor while you pull on the air line.






Once that portion has been done, you will need to remove the 3 bolts that hold the compressor in place (2 on the bottom and one on top).







Now you can remove the old compressor and install the new one in the reversed order.

New compressor installed.



No errors on the dash....



Note the icon showing the suspension at full height



I hope this helps.....
 
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#39 ·
Whole day nightmare.....

Compressor from Ebay: Easy
Remove Bottom Cover: Easy
Remove Air Lines: Impossible
One was physically ejected by over pressure prior to the repair leaving an unuseable end.
One was still melted into the pump.
One low pressure line (the "blue" connector) came out easily.

Removal required cutting the one melted line.

Remove Bottom Bolt #1: Easy
Remove Bottom Bolt #2: Easy - with an ratcheting offset screwdriver plus T-27
Remove Top Bolt: Impossible w/o removing top cover
Removing Top Cover: Very Very Difficult even with two bottom bolts out
Removing Top Bolt Take Two: made my own tiny/stubby hex wrench
(Once the top cover was removed, I should have removed the bracket per the suggestion of some other poster)

Once the old pump was on the bench:
1. broke existing connectors to remove piece of high pressure hose inside of the pump. Removed the copper fitting inside the high pressure hose that was inside of the pump.

Now the hacking begins:
1. Removed 2" of additional high pressure hose from each of the two feeding hoses on the car.
2. Inserted the copper fittings in the two pieces of "borrowed" hose. Inserted these in the new pump.
3. Reinstalled the new pump on the bracket
4. Purchased four "right size" copper splices for plastic high pressure hose, some high pressure hose from the hardware store, and some very small hose clamps.
5. Spliced the pump back into the system using the above.
6. Reinstalled the top cover...except it won't go no matter what. Removed the sound deadening from the top cover. Eventually struggled it back into place sans foam. Someday I will open it up and put the foam back in...
7. Hitch up electricals.
8. Reinstalled bottom cover.
9. Turned on the car, worked like a champ. Code cleared etc.
10. Sprayed splices with some undercoating so they are somewhat protected.

I recommend that you don't do the above. If you find that the you can't remove the air hoses (they are "fused"), then I would punt and bring your pump to the dealer and have them put it in. Even then, there is some magic to getting that top cover on / off which is key for getting the pump out.

Have fun...but not as much fun as I did.
 
#40 ·
On my installation it cleared the fault code, no issue. But in doing some further testing I have found that my suspension won't go down using the switch (except twice, right after ignition turned on; but hasn't worked at all for a number of further tries, even after turning ignition off then on). Since I don't use the down position it isn't too much of an issue because when you go high it goes up, then it will go down automatically based on the speed sensor. So for off road not an issue. Anyone else had this. Maybe a dealer reset needed?
 
#41 ·
I understand everyone's effort on dismounting the compressor from the bracket, but I find a lot easier to remove a compressor still attached to a aluminum bracket.You take the bracket out , then , you can remove a compressor out from the bracket clean the mountings, attach a new one and mount the bracket back to the chassis with the compressor already attached to the it.No need to struggle with a top plastic , sound deadening cover, nor awkward position if the top allan key bolt.Actually , in my case the top allen key turned out to be a star key( the new ones are all allen, whereas the old one were two 4 mm allen and one star.)
Yesterday i successfully renew a compressor with a overhaul kit (repair kit with bunch of springs and O -rings and few screws, provided by LR dealerPN JPO 500010).I also had a new dryer laying around for the past 6 months, so i changed that two.Now, regarding the air lines, some members reported them being melted, my were seized , especially intake and exhaust pipe connectors( two black ones on the side of the compressor). I sprayed them e few times with a penetrating oil , waited about a 20 minutes, total and they released with no problem .Dryer blue connector was OK and disengaged fine with just a little PUFF of air, no need to connect any computers to de pressurize the system at all.Compressor has a separate valve block , so when you remove the pipes , it does not release air from the entire system, not even the air tank, that why you hear only small puff , oposse to big hiss.
Taking the aluminum bracket off the chasis is a little hard, when it comes to top bolt, but at least is visible, with a flashlight,and you need 10 mm ratchet with a with swivable head and a little patience and no need to wrestle with a upper compressor cover.
When i tried to remove the compressor from the bracket itself( at the comfort of my house) ,. the long , star key screw snapped, although it was sprayed with a penetrating oil also.I said to myself , no biggy , i will re drill it and fabricate a different screw, but broke a few drill bits and and went sideways making the hole off center, bigger and protruding a screw base , making me miserable and bracket un usable, at least for me.Besides , bracket , alone was in pretty bad shape, it looked like it lost weight, oxidized too much. I Called dealer, regarding a bracket and they only one in stack, luckily i had a 20% off coupon., so it was't that bad.It is also a good idea to change a captive clips, that hold bracket screws to the chassis. they don,t have to be original , from dealer, you can pick them up from any hardware store, as they just M8 x1.25 clips and you need three of them . My were pretty corroded , so I figured , since i have a new bracket i might as well get a new clips.On the side note , bracket does not come with any screws, but my did somehow. i was told , to the surprise of a parts guy, that bracket must have been a special order and never picket up and one of the mechanics must have attached this particular screw, that i desperately need anyway, since it looked odd , anyway.
Overall with a little delay(bracket) I re attached compressor to the new holder and off I went with installing everything back to the chassis.You have just enough room to catch first thread with a top bolt, third hand helps , with a kipping the bracket with a compressor UP in place, as it is heavy.
After that everything else is just reverse order , fire up the car a, check for leaks and enjoy.
 
#42 ·
One quick addition to the installation, I did not applied a blue thread lock to the top compressor bracket, instead I applied a anti seize compound to prevent a future breaks . screw that keeps the buttom compressor cover , from the button also broke and i had to re drill it and install a different one.It use to be phillips screw, but now it comes as 10 mm hex, i guess LR realized the problem and update it.
 
#43 ·
Just changed my pump out yesterday. It's critical that the top cover gets removed in order to allow access/clearance for removing the top bolt.

I also spent time trying to figure out which hex wrench to use on the second bolt only to later find that it's a torx!

This is the second pump that I've had in the car and I found that the previous mechanic only put in the two bottom screws of the bracket! Of course I realized this only after I had taken the top cover off. Popped off the air lines by pressing the metal flange against the housing while pulling on the line.

I put the new pump with minimal issues. It was kind of tight replacing the top bracket bolt with the top cover in place but i was able to finger it in and then tighten with a box end wrench.

By the way, you get the top cover off by muscling it. (I did the work at a military base hobby shop and the shop manager happened to be an ex land rover mechanic)

Once I got it all buttoned up and replaced the suspension relay, I turned on the car only to find that the pump was still not functioning! Arrrrrg!!!

Further inspection discovered a blown 60amp suspension fuse! I replaced thee fuse and the system worked likeca champ. So I'm thinking, $600 part and 3-4 hours of labor for what could have been a $4 fix. Bench tested the old pump and it was in fact shorted out and bad. Yeesh!

Yet another 4 hour job that will only take 30 minutes if I ever need to do it again. Definately a DIY job, Good luck!
 
#44 ·
There is now a 70 amp relay upgrade also.

Further inspection discovered a blown 60 amp suspension fuse! I replaced thee fuse and the system worked liked a champ. So I'm thinking, $600 part and 3-4 hours of labour for what could have been a $4 fix. Bench tested the old pump and it was in fact shorted out and bad. Yeesh!
Yes, the 10E fuse remains 60 amp but LR has upgraded the R7 relay in the engine compartment fuse box to one now being rated at 70 amps. The part number is YWB500220.

Apparently the relay change is supposed to occur when a dealer replaces the compressor and then does the air compressor software update that reduces cut off pressure from about 240 psig down to around 210 psig.

I do not know if you took your compressor apart yet but when I did, I found that I had a broken con rod inside and that jambed the motor so to speak.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060
 
#45 ·
I have the same issues with my LR3. About 2 months ago the yellow "suspension fault normal height only" light came on, now the amber light is on and its stuck in access level. The compressor quit running all together. Is there anything additional that you have to do besides swap out compressors? Im trying to save some $$ and try to fix it myself. The above post sounds encouraging. Any thoughts?

Thanks, James
 
#46 ·
Install Schrader valve in air tank?

The problem is most likely the air compressor but perhaps it is other stuff and that problem tells the air compressor not to do anything. The link below details the installation of a Schrader valve in the air tank of 2005 to maybe 2007 threes. For Model Year 2008, the unused threaded bung was removed from the tank.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Schrader Valve Air Tank Air In install

Anyway, the Schrader valve allows one to inject air into the system. The air system for the most part, does not care where the air comes from, only that there is near 200 psig air available.

If you have a full air tank and still the 3 will not rise, then perhaps the compressor is OK and the trouble elsewhere - the odds are not however.

I might add that if the compressor is OK and there is a fault elsewhere, the compressor will probably start up upon engine start and then quit as soon as the air system computer detect a problem. In other words, if you do not hear the compressor for a few seconds at engine start up, the compressor is probably not good.

Also you can jump the air compressor relay that is located in the engine compartment fuse box and that should cause the compressor to run if it will regardless of other system problems.
 
#48 ·
My compressor still works...but only right after start up. Itll raise and lower no problem for about a minute, then it faults.

If i shut the truck off and switch it right back on, fault is reset and compressor works for about another minute.
no blown fuses.

What could be causing the fault? Hate to replace the whole thing if its just a dryer or something simple.
 
#49 ·
These Compressors can actually become "weak". This is the problem. They have enough strength to raise and lower but to the ECU its not up to snuff, therefore throwing an error message. In the case of a weak comp. there unfortunately is no other solution but to replace and reprogram. The reprogramming can only be done by the dealer. And I think its very important to do so, for the mere fact that you don't want to replace the comp. again.
 
#50 ·
Thanks for the concise answer. If you dont mind me asking, why does it ecu need reprogrammed if the new comp (once its installed) is not sending a "weak" signal. Hopefully my indy rover shop (pikes peak rovers) can do the programming.
 
#51 ·
New relay plus new air compressor plus software update.

The update refers to a software revision that LR came out with that is to be flashed via the dealer T4 when a new air compressor is installed. One of the revisions within the software reduces the compressor routine shut off pressure of about 240 psig down to something nearer 200 psig; 210 psig I think.

This means the air compressor runs more often, but does not have to work as hard or generate as much heat. Also related to the upgrade was replacement of the existing 70 amp relay with a 70 amp relay of a different part number. One presumes the replacement relay is more robust.

File 7 of 10 per the link below shows a picture of the relay, the part number, and there are comments as well.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
 
#54 ·
The update refers to a software revision that LR came out with that is to be flashed via the dealer T4 when a new air compressor is installed. One of the revisions within the software reduces the compressor routine shut off pressure of about 240 psig down to something nearer 200 psig; 210 psig I think.

This means the air compressor runs more often, but does not have to work as hard or generate as much heat. Also related to the upgrade was replacement of the existing 70 amp relay with a 70 amp relay of a different part number. One presumes the replacement relay is more robust.

File 7 of 10 per the link below shows a picture of the relay, the part number, and there are comments as well.
DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - LR3 Air Suspension fuse 35P ECU Manual Shut Off Switch
I learn something new every day. What date did this revision occur? I think my rig is onit's 3rd compressor. I replaced myself in the fall of 2010 but didn't do the reprogramming. I don't like the sound of the compressor so I think I may leave the original pressure program.
 
#55 ·
One relay and two software bulletins.

There appears to be at least 3 Service Bulletins issued.

LTB00331 dated 07 DEC 2012 relates to the relay replacement.
LTB00250 dated 15 JAN 2010 relates to the software update
LTB00270 dated 09 APR 2010 appears to be a restatement of 250.

There may also be newer ones as well but I do not know of them.

Also in the above bulletins, there are no hints as to what or why, just do it.

I guess that is in the tradition of "never admit you are wrong". Actually the relay replacement bulletin does make reference to possible damage to the relay contacts, but makes no mention that the replacement relay is a different part number from the removed relay.

The software update bulletins say nothing other than do it when you install a new compressor. Inferred is that if you are not installing a new compressor, you do not do it. That may of course just be LR getting around some suggestion that the existing fleet should have the update, and of course nothing is free.
 
#58 · (Edited)
2006 LR3 SE

Hello all and thanks for the great thread. I had my suspension warning light inspected by a well known repair shop in San Antonio, TX and the computer says I need a new pump. I am looking online for a replacement and have a couple of questions.

With the new part# LR023964 it appears I need a new relay as well, yes?

With the new part# LR023964 is there a software update that is needed as well?

If I find a rebuilt part# LR015303 do I still need a new relay?

With part# LR015303 it's just a straight part swap still as described in the OP?

Thanks again.
 
#59 ·
You do not need either the update nor the relay.

It is Land Rover that needs both the update and the relay installed, not you.

The reason is that generally Land Rover parts installed by the dealer are guaranteed for about a year. If the update is not done nor a new relay installed, then LR figures the odds are they will be on the hook for a number of new compressor units. It probably only takes about a 30% replacement rate for any margin made on a part to be significantly reduced.

The new and old part numbers are externally the same compressor so it does not matter what part number you get,. It is in your self interest to have the software updated and relay replaced, (and you pay for it). The relay you can do yourself but the software update pretty much has to be done by a dealer or if you have a Faultmate, well then you can also do it yourself.

Probably you will see a hand written number in white felt pen scribbled on the end of whatever compressor you purchase. This is because Hitachi is constantly updating parts inside in an attempt to I suppose, reduce cost of production and hopefully improve reliability. The hand written numbers are how they house track the changes in house. One of the jpg's in the file link below shows the hand written numbers from my removed compressor.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060

For that it is worth, with all the changes, the compressor seems to be getting somewhat reliable; the problem is now the air dryer, hence a replacement compressor should include new desiccant beads inside the air dryer. Below is a link re desiccant discussion.

Compressor repair. - Australian Land Rover Owners
 
#60 ·
It is Land Rover that needs both the update and the relay installed, not you.

The reason is that generally Land Rover parts installed by the dealer are guaranteed for about a year. If the update is not done nor a new relay installed, then LR figures the odds are they will be on the hook for a number of new compressor units. It probably only takes about a 30% replacement rate for any margin made on a part to be significantly reduced.

The new and old part numbers are externally the same compressor so it does not matter what part number you get,. It is in your self interest to have the software updated and relay replaced, (and you pay for it). The relay you can do yourself but the software update pretty much has to be done by a dealer or if you have a Faultmate, well then you can also do it yourself.

Probably you will see a hand written number in white felt pen scribbled on the end of whatever compressor you purchase. This is because Hitachi is constantly updating parts inside in an attempt to I suppose, reduce cost of production and hopefully improve reliability. The hand written numbers are how they house track the changes in house. One of the jpg's in the file link below shows the hand written numbers from my removed compressor.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060

For that it is worth, with all the changes, the compressor seems to be getting somewhat reliable; the problem is now the air dryer, hence a replacement compressor should include new desiccant beads inside the air dryer. Below is a link re desiccant discussion.

Compressor repair. - Australian Land Rover Owners
Thank you very much for the all the detail and the quick response. Now the only question is do I try to disconnect the compressor only or try getting the entire unit out, bracket and all...
 
#61 · (Edited)
Bracket and all.

The consensus seems to be it is easier to get the bracket plus compressor out rather than getting the compressor loose from the bracket.

There is one bracket bolt that is hard to get at but doable whereas compressor only, it is near impossible.

The hard part is undoing the air lines to the compressor without wrecking the fittings. To remove the air lines, push in on the fitting and pull gently on the air line, but it does not seem that way.

Also get some thread undo fluid and squirt in and around the air line fitting surrounds - seems to help, plus lots of wiggling.

Suggest you have the 3 on frame jacks and F26E removed or better yet, battery disconnected as the air system can let go. It is not supposed to but ....
 
#63 ·
Feel like a low rider

So my suspension light came on about 2 weeks ago and there was no difference in the ride till a couple of days ago. I parked my 2006 LR3 in my drive way for 3 days and took off out of town. When I got in it Monday to go to work the car was dropped as low as it could possibly go and it was so bouncy I was being thrashed around the car like a bobble head. When I tried to adjust the cars height nothing happened, the lights on the knobs will not even light up. However, they will light up when I first start the engine but the car dings within 2 seconds and the height option lights turn off. I'm guessing it's my compressor that needs to be replaced?? Yes, I'm a girl. I admit I don't know much about cars but I can fix just about anything what comes with instructions including my lift gate! Just want to make sure these are the right instructions for my issue. Thank you and please don't make fun of me, my head already hurts from all the bouncing around driving home from work. :)
 
#113 ·
Feel like a low rider

So my suspension light came on about 2 weeks ago and there was no difference in the ride till a couple of days ago. I parked my 2006 LR3 in my drive way for 3 days and took off out of town. When I got in it Monday to go to work the car was dropped as low as it could possibly go and it was so bouncy I was being thrashed around the car like a bobble head. When I tried to adjust the cars height nothing happened, the lights on the knobs will not even light up. However, they will light up when I first start the engine but the car dings within 2 seconds and the height option lights turn off. I'm guessing it's my compressor that needs to be replaced?? Yes, I'm a girl. I admit I don't know much about cars but I can fix just about anything what comes with instructions including my lift gate! Just want to make sure these are the right instructions for my issue. Thank you and please don't make fun of me, my head already hurts from all the bouncing around driving home from work. :)
I Have one to am a Female with the same problem. Right now I am going to get R7 Suspension Compressor module relay and F3(5A) Suspension Control and or F35 (5A) Suspension Control module
 
#64 ·
Compressor plus perhaps a small leak as well.

Probably you need a new compressor assuming the one in there is more than about three years old. If the compressor is good, there are many other things that could keep the compressor from at least starting up.

About all I can suggest for starters is to try a hard reset as below. The idea is to hopefully clear some of the fault codes and perhaps your compressor will start and run for awhile; hopefully long enough to get your 3 back up as driving around on the stops is no fun.

I am inclined to think that maybe the compressor does work, but not well. If so, it may be that the air dryer desiccant beads are deteriorating and plugging things up. If so, a new air dryer generally resolves this problem.

The reason I think your compressor is still working somewhat is that even though the air suspension trouble light was on, your 3 still maintained height.

Leaving the 3 un-started over the weekend allowed the auto level program to release the air that was in the system. Probably you have a small leak somewhere as well, hence there is more than one problem to be solved. Either that or the compressor does not work at all but your system is so leak free that it took two weeks plus the weekend for all the air to escape.

I wonder, did you use access mode a few times in that couple of weeks to lower the 3 and if so, I assume that the 3 did go back up. If so, the compressor was probably working somewhat.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hard Reset

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.

Disco3Club The Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Club • View topic - How To, Hard Reset on a D3


I would suggest that you review a number of files I have re the air system per the link below. The link is to my main album page. Within, there are three albums related specifically to the air system. Each album has a number of files within. Some of these files are air system block valve diagrams, other are wiring diagrams. I would suggest you download and print them out. You are going to need to reference them if you hope to solve the problem yourself. The first step however is the hard reset as above in the hopes that you can get your 3 back up.

If it goes back up or tries to, look for the files that reference fuse F26E as removal of it will be your next step.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer
 
#65 ·
Probably you need a new compressor assuming the one in there is more than about three years old. If the compressor is good, there are many other things that could keep the compressor from at least starting up.

About all I can suggest for starters is to try a hard reset as below. The idea is to hopefully clear some of the fault codes and perhaps your compressor will start and run for awhile; hopefully long enough to get your 3 back up as driving around on the stops is no fun.

I am inclined to think that maybe the compressor does work, but not well. If so, it may be that the air dryer desiccant beads are deteriorating and plugging things up. If so, a new air dryer generally resolves this problem.

The reason I think your compressor is still working somewhat is that even though the air suspension trouble light was on, your 3 still maintained height.

Leaving the 3 un-started over the weekend allowed the auto level program to release the air that was in the system. Probably you have a small leak somewhere as well, hence there is more than one problem to be solved. Either that or the compressor does not work at all but your system is so leak free that it took two weeks plus the weekend for all the air to escape.

I wonder, did you use access mode a few times in that couple of weeks to lower the 3 and if so, I assume that the 3 did go back up. If so, the compressor was probably working somewhat.

Hard Reset Instructions

In brief, to start the hard reset process, open the hood but close all doors and let your 3 go to sleep - no radio display etc and no key in the ignition. This will take a couple of minutes and do not open any doors until the reset is completed. (I find that it is often a good idea to have the drivers door window rolled down and the key in my pocket whenever fooling about the vehicle.)

Disconnect the ground battery terminal from the main starting battery.
Disconnect the positive battery terminal from the main starting battery.

(I assume that you only have one battery in your 3. If not, disconnect the others as well and leave them disconnected until after all is done.)

Connect the negative cable to the positive cable. (NOT the battery.) You will need a short length, (a foot or so), of light gauge, (14 to 18 gauge AWG, insulated stranded copper), wire to span between the battery cable ends as there is not enough slack in the positive and negative battery cables for the ends to touch each other.

Hold all together for about a minute or more, as you are discharging memory modules within the engine computer and elsewhere. Then it is suggested you just let all sit disconnected for say ten minutes prior to commencing to put the battery cable ends back on the battery posts per the following.

Reattach positive terminal to the main starting battery positive post.
Reattach negative terminal to the main starting battery negative post.

Start engine and hopefully no or fewer warning lights.
Reset time on the radio - note that the station presets are still there as not everything is erased. Nothing much else needs resetting either.

You can now connect up the other batteries if you have a multiple battery setup.

This is a link to a thread in disco3 re the hard reset procedure.

DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Hard Reset

This is a link to a thread on Disco3Club re the hard reset procedure.

Disco3Club The Discovery 3 and 4 Owners Club • View topic - How To, Hard Reset on a D3


I would suggest that you review a number of files I have re the air system per the link below. The link is to my main album page. Within, there are three albums related specifically to the air system. Each album has a number of files within. Some of these files are air system block valve diagrams, other are wiring diagrams. I would suggest you download and print them out. You are going to need to reference them if you hope to solve the problem yourself. The first step however is the hard reset as above in the hopes that you can get your 3 back up.

If it goes back up or tries to, look for the files that reference fuse F26E as removal of it will be your next step.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Home > Member Galleries > bbyer
Thanks for all your help.
Today I replaced the 60amp fuse and the suspension light turned off, the height control light turned back on! This is a good sign! I hear the compressor TRYING to work and it looked like the tires were inflating but the car never raised back up so it's still very low to the ground and still very bouncy. Oh and now my check engine light is on and my suspension light is also back on so I'm assuming I have blown the fuse again. I will try the Hard reset tomorrow but I don't think it will help much. Think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and buy a new compressor.
:bawling:
 
#66 ·
at least you have isolated the problem

Yes, you are correct, it is most likely the compressor.

It could also be a wiring short to the compressor but given that you can hear the compressor trying to work, the odds are its motor has quit. Per the link below, with mine, the connecting rod disconnected from the rotating part, broke the con rod and that jammed the electric motor so it would not rotate - hence blown fuse as it should be.

DISCO3.CO.UK Photo Gallery - Broken Air Compressor RQG500060

The solution was a new compressor.

It sounds like you figured out the air system wiring diagram and then were able to translate the pretty picture into the real world of under the hood. Well done.

I do not think I would even bother with the hard reset procedure as the new fuse did for a short while make most of the lights disappear and gets things back to normal.

If you have the NAV, call up the 4x4 info screen. I use it to watch the air system. With no air, you will not see much, but once you get the compressor replaced, keep an eye on the 4x4 info for a week or so to see that all is as it should be. If you watch it long enough, you will get to know what normal looks like and if lucky, will be able to observe small troubles before they become bigger ones.
 
#68 ·
#70 ·
Browsing this whole thread but my compressor issue seems to be slightly different. I actually had a crack in the compressor bracket so I replaced it. When we re-installed the compressor and the bracket together, the pump started making a loud rattling and vibrating noise. Does this mean the compressor / pump is going bad? My LR3 still lofts and lowers but the vibration noise is loud. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
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