OBD II Code: P0695, Fan 3 Control Circuit Low - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 04:27 PM Thread Starter
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OBD II Code: P0695, Fan 3 Control Circuit Low

This code just popped for me, and appears to be an engine fan code. It was 105* when it happened. I immediately pulled over and shut the truck down. I could tell something was different because the truck sounded different - like the fan was much louder. It's pretty hard to describe noises, but wasn't the typical quietness from the engine. It reminded me of the kind of airflow sound that larger semi truck engines have when taking off. I also noted that as soon as I shut off the AC system, the engine sound went to normal and the temp stabilized. Truck drove fine after that but the code still remains. Can someone here help me connect the dots to what may be going on and how these things effect each other?

Also, I'm working with a newly installed radiator, coolant, and thermostat. Any input appreciated!

Mike G

2005 LR3 HSE
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post #2 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 04:48 PM
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Sounds like maybe the aux fan going bad.
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post #3 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 04:55 PM Thread Starter
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This might be a silly question, but which one is the aux fan? During my radiator replacement I had half the front end disassembled and didn't see another one. I assumed "auxiliary" would suggest there's more than one fan. Is that correct? Or is it referring to the main fan? :shrug

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2005 LR3 HSE
Bonatti Grey
4.4L V8
Tan Leather
202K+ on body, 80K on replaced 4.4L
Rhino 2.5" Lift Rods
TerraFirma 18" steel wheels
285/65/18 (32.6") RBP rubber
SYA Off-Road Bump Stop Extension Kit
Limiting Straps
TerraFirma rock sliders

Last edited by Mike Germann; 06-19-2017 at 06:22 PM.
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post #4 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 07:06 PM
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The electric one
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post #5 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-19-2017, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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Interesting. I don't think mine even has one. Wonder if it was previously removed, as I just purchased this about a month ago. Where should it be in relation to the engine fan?

Mike G

2005 LR3 HSE
Bonatti Grey
4.4L V8
Tan Leather
202K+ on body, 80K on replaced 4.4L
Rhino 2.5" Lift Rods
TerraFirma 18" steel wheels
285/65/18 (32.6") RBP rubber
SYA Off-Road Bump Stop Extension Kit
Limiting Straps
TerraFirma rock sliders
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post #6 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 12:37 AM
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Check fuse 10E in the engine bay junction box, if that's good the main engine elecro-viscous cooling fan is electronically supervised by the ECU so a problem with it will make the engine ECU log that fault code.... check if the connector(C2270 attached) is not loosen eventually try to stop the fan with a rolled up newspaper when the engine is hot... if you can you need a new one, or if it's not spinning fast check the relay too also verify resistance across the black wire in the plug and body to rule out a bad earth.... what ever it is the problem is in the fan's circuit(attached)
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post #7 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 06:04 AM
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I was thinking D2.
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post #8 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 10:21 AM
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Is it an electric fan, or just an electric clutch with rotational power coming from the water pump? I think mine is going too. Good AB repair video on youtube on how to replace the fan (part of the replacing belts proceedure): https://youtu.be/1IghvL4sh4M?list=PL...Q9zGB3J5Esn-RY
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post #9 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 12:42 PM
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It's an electro-viscous complex unit controlled by the engine ECU with PWM signal

My friends call me Fery

2000 Discovery Td5 ES manual

Hawkeye v.6, Nanocom EVO,
VDM UCANDAS, oscilloscope


if you think my english is peculiar it means you didnt hear my japanese

ALL MY ADVICES ARE BASED ON MY OWN KNOWLEDGE AND MY WAY OF UNDERSTANDING THE DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION OF SYSTEMS... I'M NOT A LAND ROVER TRAINED SPECIALIST JUST AN ADDICTED ENTHUSIAST.
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post #10 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 03:52 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the replies gents, much appreciated! I looked up the 10E but saw multiple forums that said the 10E was for suspension? Perhaps that was on other models? Either way, my fuses were all good. I also checked the fan connector, and the wires looked good. To be safe, I reseated the connector. As for the fan relay, I got my multimeter out but wasn't sure how to check the fan relay with the diagram provided on the component. I read that some auto relays should read INFINITE resistance, and others should read ZERO resistance. Wasn't sure which one this should be, but I got infinite resistance across them all.

The fan doesn't seem to spin very quickly, but once I turn the A/C on, it picks up speed. This may have been the air-y sound I was hearing before.

I recently had the fan out for a radiator replacement, but it's run for 300+ miles since then without issue, so I don't think it's a post-installation problem from that maintenance evolution.

On a side note, I also have a whiny pulley, so if I gotta take the fan off to test it I may as well replace the belt and that whiny pulley. Looks like it's coming from the idler but I'll try to grab a photo.

Mike G

2005 LR3 HSE
Bonatti Grey
4.4L V8
Tan Leather
202K+ on body, 80K on replaced 4.4L
Rhino 2.5" Lift Rods
TerraFirma 18" steel wheels
285/65/18 (32.6") RBP rubber
SYA Off-Road Bump Stop Extension Kit
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post #11 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 04:30 PM
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... I read that some auto relays should read INFINITE resistance, and others should read ZERO resistance. Wasn't sure which one this should be, but I got infinite resistance across them all.
That's not good, no relay should have infinite resistance on the coil cos it's a solenoid... across terminals 85 -86 you should have resistance usually around 80 Ohm but it can vary depending on the relay's type just that it can't be open circuit cos then the relay is fubar

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2000 Discovery Td5 ES manual

Hawkeye v.6, Nanocom EVO,
VDM UCANDAS, oscilloscope


if you think my english is peculiar it means you didnt hear my japanese

ALL MY ADVICES ARE BASED ON MY OWN KNOWLEDGE AND MY WAY OF UNDERSTANDING THE DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION OF SYSTEMS... I'M NOT A LAND ROVER TRAINED SPECIALIST JUST AN ADDICTED ENTHUSIAST.
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post #12 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 05:59 PM Thread Starter
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Sounds like that relay troubleshooting may have narrowed it down. I'm not sure if I measured pins 85-86, I didn't see where they were labeled. Wouldn't I need to apply a test voltage to the relay to check its function, to see if it clicks? Just curious, I've worked with them before on planes but am unfamiliar with working on them in vehicles.

Hypothetically though, if that relay were bad, what would be the indication? Would the fan not work at all? Or would it not kick on during increased temps? It's kicking on when the car is at idle and A/C on. The RPM's just up a little bit when it happens and I can hear the fan spinning faster.

Is it possible this could be an intermittent shorting condition? It's 110* here in Central Valley, CA....I figure if there would be an overheating issue it would have just happened, I had the A/C cranked waiting at idle in the In-N-Out drive through line. Ran fine though.

Stumped.

Mike G

2005 LR3 HSE
Bonatti Grey
4.4L V8
Tan Leather
202K+ on body, 80K on replaced 4.4L
Rhino 2.5" Lift Rods
TerraFirma 18" steel wheels
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SYA Off-Road Bump Stop Extension Kit
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post #13 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-20-2017, 09:46 PM
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I don't know exactly how that fan operates cos the description is vague but as it's combined viscous-electric unit it might work on viscous coupling even without any feed... make sure that the relay is ok, if it's a normal 4 pin relay the coil is across the two parallel terminals but it should be a scheme on it's casing
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2000 Discovery Td5 ES manual

Hawkeye v.6, Nanocom EVO,
VDM UCANDAS, oscilloscope


if you think my english is peculiar it means you didnt hear my japanese

ALL MY ADVICES ARE BASED ON MY OWN KNOWLEDGE AND MY WAY OF UNDERSTANDING THE DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION OF SYSTEMS... I'M NOT A LAND ROVER TRAINED SPECIALIST JUST AN ADDICTED ENTHUSIAST.
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post #14 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-21-2017, 04:51 AM
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The fan can mechanically bind internally.

Imagine a fan clutch but instead of the bi-metallic spring telling it when to engage and disengage, it uses an electrical signal from the ECU. When they fail, they can not engage at all, or sometimes they can stick and stay engaged full-time.

They're using these on alot of the pickup trucks these days. They last alot longer, but they're expensive when they fail- don't know about the D3 on that, but I assume it's like all Rover parts.
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post #15 of 113 (permalink) Old 06-22-2017, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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The fan can mechanically bind internally.

Imagine a fan clutch but instead of the bi-metallic spring telling it when to engage and disengage, it uses an electrical signal from the ECU. When they fail, they can not engage at all, or sometimes they can stick and stay engaged full-time.

They're using these on alot of the pickup trucks these days. They last alot longer, but they're expensive when they fail- don't know about the D3 on that, but I assume it's like all Rover parts.


Good info, mate. any chance that would/could be an intermittent fault? Because it's not consistent, which is making it a PITA to troubleshoot.

Mike G

2005 LR3 HSE
Bonatti Grey
4.4L V8
Tan Leather
202K+ on body, 80K on replaced 4.4L
Rhino 2.5" Lift Rods
TerraFirma 18" steel wheels
285/65/18 (32.6") RBP rubber
SYA Off-Road Bump Stop Extension Kit
Limiting Straps
TerraFirma rock sliders
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