[D1/RRC/Defender] CV Joint Replacement - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 1 (permalink) Old 03-20-2007, 10:37 AM Thread Starter
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[D1/RRC/Defender] CV Joint Replacement

CV Joint Replacement
Courtesy of 01001010
Original thread here

This is the procedure taken from the Land Rover Workshop Manual and several members of two separate boards to change a Constant Velocity Joint on a 1996 Discovery. The job isn't a very difficult one, but unless you don't have the tools, time and patience for the job, should not be attempted.

We begin as any repair to the drivetrain would, by removing the tire of the specific side that will be worked on. That in itself, as we all know, can take a single person up to 10 minutes to manually remove if the lugs were previously placed using an impact gun. You then want to pry the rubber cap from the flange, remove the cir clip and shim that is located at the very tip of the stub axle...

One could, and should remove the caliper first after removing the tires, but I was so excited I wanted to gut that thing quickly. To remove the caliper you will need a 13mm 12 point socket/wrench Because you don't have much space to turn a wrench, a socket with an extension would definitely get the job done quickly)...

The top bolt...

The bottom bolt...

Now you can remove the flange. You'll need the 2&1/16th socket to remove the lock-nuts (referred to as a shim in the manual). In my case, both of the lock-nuts were DANGEROUSLY loose! So loose, I was able to remove them with my hand! You'll also need to pull back/up the flaps(2) on the middle shim that have been folded down...

After removing the shims and lock-nuts, give the hub/rotor a little tug and the outer bearing will come loose. After pulling the bearing off, you can now pull on the hub/rotor assembly and it will come off freely. Now you're almost ready to pull out the CV. But first, make sure that you place a pan of some sort under the swivel if you haven't already drained it. Once the first bolt is removed, the oil will drain out of it.

NOTE: Oil would have been used on pre-97 Discoveries. If you don't have a drain plug on the knuckle, you're swivel is, or should be filled with grease.

After you've removed all six bolts, and the mud guard, you are now ready to pull out the stub axle, cv, and the axle. ...

When I was removing the bolts, I noticed only a few drops of oil come out. When I finally removed the CV, I found the swivel to be completely dried out, relatively speaking. I also noticed the oil that was left was contaminated by water (shown circled), and a coolant-looking liquid (pointed out by the small arrow).

Make sure that the oil seal on the knuckle is removed (pointed out by the red arrow)...

After blasting the crap out of the remaining oil in the CV with compressed air, and spraying it with WD40, you will now need to remove the Stub Axle from the CV. I did it the way a neanderthal would have done it. I put the CV in a straight position, held on to the opposite end of the axle, and lightly banged it against the floor of the shop a couple of times. When that came off, I realized that the stub-axle's needle roller bearing was completely damaged. The rollers are now spread out all over the floor of my shop. This meant I had to replace the bearing, and while I was at it, I replaced the oil seal within the stub axle (which had come in the CV replacement kit I bought from AB)...

Place the axle and CV on a soft grip vise. If you don't have one, I used AC insulation tubes and wrapped it around the axle to put it in my vise. If you don't mind smacking your already damaged CV, you can use a normal hammer, but if you're going to have that CV rebuilt, then use a rubber mallet to hit the edges of the race (pointed out by the arrows) to take it off the axle...

Before placing the new CV on the axle, make sure to replace your cir clip as well. I didn't know I had one until I looked on the upper flap of the box the CV came in, so don't throw your boxes away until you are COMPLETELY done with your rebuild because you'll never know whats in there. Place the ring, and cir clip on the axle... (notice the insulation tube)...

Take your new CV...

and while holding it in one hand, compress the cir clip a bit and slip the CV on the axle until the very edges of the race hold the cir clip compressed in place. Take a rubber mallet and lightly tap the CV into place. You'll hear the click of the cir clip opening again. Give the CV a tug to make sure it won't come off. You now have your new CV on the axle...

Now head back to the truck and slide that baby in there. Don't forget to place your seal on the stub axle and PLEASE don't forget to put your mud guard on (I did, after I had torqued the bolts to spec). You'll need Loctite 270 & 520. I went looking for those but only found color designations, blue and red. The stub axle bolts use Red, which is the High strength compound. Blue is used on all the other bolts, including the Caliper bolts...

The mudguard is pointed out by the arrow...

Reassembly is a reverse of the above steps and should now be a P.O.C. Then place your drain plug on the knuckle tight, and remove the fill plug. If you're using the One Shot grease, I would put some INTO the CV first. Also, I put the grease into a bottle with an adjustable tip, as the packaging it comes in will make a mess of things while refilling. Make sure to turn the wheel so that you can see the cavity within the knuckle. This will allow the fill-up process to go by quickly. Filling up can be done with the front wheels in a stright position, but because the fill-hole is only MMs above the CV, the grease wont flow as quickly and you'll have to stop every once in a while to let the grease flow to the bottom.

Vuala!!! You have now replaced your CV joint and dirtied the crap out of yourself and your wheel with your dirty gloves!!!...

Now go test it out!!!


Last but not least, make sure you have an assistant who isn't going to fall asleep on the job....

Last edited by 01001010; 03-20-2007 at 11:53 AM.
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