Rear brakes sticking SIII - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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Rear brakes sticking SIII

Hi
the rear brakes on my 1973 SIII SWB are not releasing fully,
at first pump on the brakes, the rear brakes respond, nothing from the front, then a second pump and all brakes working together as they should.
I'm pretty sure the master needs replaced or needs a kit, i've been loosing fluid slowly, and there appears to be fluid running down on the servo unit.
I have not touched the shoes so am assuming they are fine. Does this problem sound like the master playing up, or the brake failure valve or a combination of the two. Can anyone help me out??
many thanks
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 10:31 PM
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Sounds like your rear brakes need adjustment. Also sounds like they need cleaning as they are not retracting very quickly. There are springs in there to retract them, if they are "sticking" they aren't retracting very fast. Also possible they have deteriorated rubbers in the cylinders slowing the retraction. This, being said, you don't explain why you think they are sticking. Do you mean they continuously rub? The fronts don't come on till the second pump because all the fluid in your first pump is going to the rear because they are so far out of alignment.

A leak at the master cylinder does mean you need a new or rebuilt M/C.
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-25-2011, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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they don't seem to be releasing properly. when the brakes are used, the rear brakes stay on, not fully, but are still dragging, but if left overnight do not drag untill used again. they then proceed to get very hot if driven longer as expected. the brake pedal is somewhat soft too, they have been bled (as instructed in Haynes manual i did this as the brakes were disconnected when i replaced the diffs ~8 months ago) but no air seems to be in the system. before this a sometimes a double pump was needed to get a strong response but a single pump was suffice normally. hope this helps.
thanks for your help i will check the shoes tomorrow when i get the chance, to eliminate that as a problem
cheers
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011, 09:30 AM
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Like Greg S says first adjust the brakes, but you do have more than one problem. You should have a dual brake reservoir I am actually just about to go start rebuilding mine as my front reservoir has an external leak. The kit was not cheap, around $70 for a few seals.

1971 88 last of the series 2A, Series 3 trans, Fairy OD. Second owner since 1977.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-26-2011, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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took the shoes off, and everything looked OK inside, adjusted them, but found they're not spinning freely all the way round on the RHS hub even with all adjustment let go, thought the drum could be distorted from when they got hot, swapped with LHS drum, same problem but not as bad. LHS hub is fine with both drums. RHS is fine if the drum is not on hard against the hub. will the drums need replaced? i do have a complete 11 inch set, however they have different dia. studs, would it be worth just swapping the whole set over? definately is dual brake with plastic reservior
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011, 03:59 AM
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Also sounds like you need to replace the hose that runs from the frame down to the Y fitting on the differential. They will act just like a check valve when the get punky on the inside.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-27-2011, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by TerryS View Post
Also sounds like you need to replace the hose that runs from the frame down to the Y fitting on the differential. They will act just like a check valve when the get punky on the inside.
If you are going to rebuild the master cylinder then while it's apart I would change all three rubber hoses. Like TerryS says it could be restricting return flow causing the rear brakes to drag.

Just a heads up if you plan to rebuild your master cylinder. I just did mine and the one seal that was leaking was NOT in the kit. That is the front seal for the dual reservoir. I have contacted the supplier but not heard back yet so mine is still in pieces.

1971 88 last of the series 2A, Series 3 trans, Fairy OD. Second owner since 1977.

Last edited by Busboy; 04-27-2011 at 01:50 PM.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-29-2011, 10:11 AM
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If was going to those lengths I would rebuild the entire system. Don't take chances with brakes, Series brakes are not very good to start with so any loss in performance is risky.

"Your only supposed to blow the BLOODY DOORS OFF" Charlie Croaker. The Italian Job. 1969.


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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-29-2011, 07:16 PM
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...Series brakes are not very good to start with ...
Sorry, I've got to disagree with you there. Maybe they aren't very good if some owner or other incompetent has bodged them.

That being said, I have converted mine to front disks but for different reasons.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 12:17 PM
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Brake Lines in Series IIA

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Originally Posted by Greg S View Post
Sorry, I've got to disagree with you there. Maybe they aren't very good if some owner or other incompetent has bodged them.

That being said, I have converted mine to front disks but for different reasons.
Greg - is it true that for my Series IIA the brakelines run where three lines handle the rear brakes PLUS the driver's side brake, and then one line handles the passenger side brake?

The shop that is working on my car has put in a brand new Master cylinder, new brakes and drums, lines, etc., all of it, and the passenger side brake is not fully releasing.

So they say that they are going to re-run the lines two to the front and two to the rear to balance it out better. How does all of this sound to you?

Thanks!
Mike

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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 10-11-2018, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeShaw View Post
Greg - is it true that for my Series IIA the brakelines run where three lines handle the rear brakes PLUS the driver's side brake, and then one line handles the passenger side brake?

The shop that is working on my car has put in a brand new Master cylinder, new brakes and drums, lines, etc., all of it, and the passenger side brake is not fully releasing.

So they say that they are going to re-run the lines two to the front and two to the rear to balance it out better. How does all of this sound to you?

Thanks!
Mike
Update - Brakes locked up and had it towed back to the shop. They found that a wrong part was used, and they're replacing all worn parts and the incorrect part. I hope to get the car back this week. About the three lines/two lines stuff. I figured this out, I got the Haynes manual for the Series 2A, and you can see that some older systems had the lines run to 3 wheels and then to 1 wheel, vs. two and two (front and back wheels). So now I have the newer system.

I'm really motivated now to do everything I possibly can by myself. It's a steep learning curve, but I'm starting the process. This forum is encouraging. Thanks all!
Mike

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