89 Classic needs help - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 03:27 PM Thread Starter
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89 Classic needs help

Hello all.
New to these forums. I have a membership to one of the other rover forums but I am having a hard time tracking down my problems.
I am absolutely stumped

Heres whats up
The rover fires up easily. Have no problems starting it.
Revs up perfectly in neutral
Put it in gear and there is just no power. On flat ground I can go about 100 yards full throttle before it will even think about shifting to 2nd

Ive pulled the engine.
Replaced the head gasket
New Cam
new rod bearings
new timing chain and gear
new fuel pressure regulator
new upgraded injectors
new battery
new filter
good fuel pressure
new coil
new distributor
new plugs
new wires
o2 sensors were cleaned

Check engine light is on

Now drives exactly the same as it did prior.
Approx 210000 miles
Compression is about 120-125 on all

Took it into mechanic. He had it for 4 months and timed the engine. Thats about it. I had to pick it up
Please help me diagnose

Thank you all very much
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post #2 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 03:42 PM
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Are you saying that the tranny is slipping?
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post #3 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 03:47 PM Thread Starter
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I do not think it is tranny related (i don't think)
What I meant was that it takes forever to even get up to speed before shifting
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post #4 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 06:16 PM
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Did you replace all those items before it started to play up or after.
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post #5 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-11-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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When I received this Rover, all this was already present.

I will admit that when I did the head gasket, I did not have the heads machined.
Totally my fault, but still thought it would drive better after the other improvements.

Would a warped head cause the problems that I am having?
I am getting a white wet vapor out of the exhaust, however I am not getting milky oil.

Also, Could sticky valves cause my issue?
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post #6 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 09:26 AM
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Garage
okay, hmmm any restriction to the exhaust? Cats or muffler? seems to be low on compression. is the e-brake frozen, corroded rusted in the drum? You replaced a lot of things, no new rings? or hone of the cylinder walls? o2 sensors cleaned? new ones are better idea, mine go out every 2 years or so, well at least one does..
check engine light, have you cleared the ECU computer?,,unplug it turn on key, turn off key they plug it back in... see if light is off when you start? maf sensor TPS throttle position sensor could be bad..you can check it with volt meter..are you losing coolant? does it run differently when cold or warm? in all the years i have owned my range rovers and read these forums I have never heard of this particular problem, is the timing off 180 degrees? any major vacuum leaks/ i use propane to find these..
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post #7 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-14-2019, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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" in all the years i have owned my range rovers and read these forums I have never heard of this particular problem"

Ha this made me laugh. Just my luck haha

I do not believe the exhaust has any blockage.
I reset the emissions relay by pushing button inside. Check engine light turned off and has not gone back on.

I purchased an engine rebuild kit and rings came with, however they were much thicker than my original ones and did not fit. Did not really make sense to me.

Before I went and spent $200 more dollars on O2 sensors, I thought I would clean them. They looked good as they were, however it was not able to really look inside.

The Ebrake is not frozen
I have cleaned 2 MAS that I have. Does not change anything
I do not know how to test the throttle position sensor. I have a voltmeter, but it is still in the box. HAHA I have not learned to use it yet
Timing makes the most sense, but I really really thought that I put the timing gear and chain in correctly.
There is some coolant leaking somewhere and I am getting a white vapor out the exhaust. Head gasket is gonna be changed.

Can a cracked or warped head with sticky lifters cause my problem? I was under the impression that I will lose power, bu not as much as I am experiencing.
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post #8 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 10:59 AM Thread Starter
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I called one of my other mechanics and explained what is going on (import auto shop owner)
Here's his response

Get rid of it and cut your losses.
Thinks the liners slipped and would cost $10,000 for a new engine with new sleeves.
Said that parts are becoming scarce and that sooner than later, parts will be obsolete


Thoughts....
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post #9 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 03:26 PM
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Step 1 get new mechanics 😉
Step 2 stop speculating.
Knowing beats “I think” Evey time.
A leaking sleeve would not act as you have described. 8 slipped sleeves- maybe?
If I were you I would rule out an exhaust restriction,
If you have not mastered a multimeter I will not attempt to advise diagnoses with a back pressure gauge or even a vacuum gauge 🙃
Simply..... Make a BIG exhaust leak. Loosen off front pipe to manifold connections and drive it.
Report back here.

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #10 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 03:53 PM
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TPS and O2 sensors are not going to make a bit of difference when under full throttle.
You could have wrong cam.
You could have fitted the timing chain/cam wrong and your valve timing is out.
You have changed the fuel pressure regulator and you could have fitted the wrong one.
You state that you have fitted upgraded injectors. As there is no such thing, you have obviously fitted the wrong ones.
You have stuffed around with the distributor and timing, are you sure they are now set correct.

You have stuffed around with everything that could be causing your issue. It is impossible on a forum to work out what one you stuffed up.
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 07:42 PM Thread Starter
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I will unbolt the exhaust and test

The injectors I ordered said "4 Hole Nozzle Bosch Upgraded 8X Fuel Injectors For 89-98 Land Rover v8"

The cam # was ERR5924

It was at a reputable British 4x4 shop and he set the timing

The fuel pressure regulator was Beck/Arnley 158-0239

This engine was in a different rover that was pretty beat up.
When I received it, I got it running again. Ive been replacing things bit by bit and not one thing has even changed the way it has run.
I am trying to look at what has not been changed yet.
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 07:58 PM
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Somewhat agree, but if the timing was “set” bye the mechanic that had it for 4 ? Months then that’s not likely it. But then again he had it 4 months????sounds like they didn’t know or care to know what they were doing to me
But would explain low compression possibly? Fuel pressure would have to be out by a lot I would expect to cause what you describe

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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I am also going to do a compression test tomorrow.

The mechanic had it for 4 months but does not mean he worked on it for that long.
It just sat there and he kept telling me he would get to it he would get to it.
He did the timing and some other minor stuff earlier and then he was gonna tackle the remaining issues.

I know I did a compression test when I first got it and it was approx 120 in all, but that is just my memory from months ago.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:08 PM Thread Starter
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I must admit that I really should have gone through and fully rebuilt the heads and figured out the rings when the engine was out.
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 03:51 AM
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Personally I would stop acting blind and get something like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/AEM-30-4110...cAAOSwdxJaqZCs
At least it will tell you whether it is a fuel issue.
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