keyed ignition switch broken and needs replacing - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-06-2012, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
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keyed ignition switch broken and needs replacing

I have a 94 RR classic. The other day the ignition switch quit working. It would turn fully clockwise without engaging the starter and didn't have the springback in the final 1/8 turn. It turned the power on but would not turn the power off. Had to pull the negative wire at the battery. There was plenty of juice in the battery to do a remote start and get the vehicle into a garage. Pulled the steering column apart and the keyed ignition switch assembly appears to be rivetted around the steering column. Has anyone had to replace an ignition switch on one of these vehicles? Any suggestions.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-07-2012, 05:04 PM
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don't know about a 94, but this the diagram for a 95.

they look like rivits, but they are bolts with no head. use a hammer and a chisel to tap it loose/off.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 04:54 AM
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They're called shear bolts. They had normal heads on those bolts but they shear off when properly tightened to make it difficult for thieves to remove the ignition. You can either use a hammer and chisel or a dremel. The dremel will cut a slit across the top of the shear bolt allowing you to use a flat head screw driver.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 08:53 AM Thread Starter
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Many thanks Paul Grant and lwbblue. Now we know what we're dealing with instead of going on a hunch.
Craig
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-08-2012, 07:43 PM
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Garage
If its only the electrical starter ignition switch only, and not the key barrel with assembly then you should not have to remove the two sheer bolts to replace the ignition switch unless you want to change out the entire assembly. The ignition switch should be held place with a single tiny phillips head screw.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-09-2012, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Classic4Me2. Unfortunately I think its the key barrel, feels like the tumblers are shifting preventing the key from getting its full range of movement. Craig
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-02-2013, 08:14 AM
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I have to replace mine too as the spring seems to be broken. Did you try the dremel slot removal approach?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 04-03-2013, 11:34 AM
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i have a brand new one (model no. STC 1435) - not sure if it's the correct one, i bought it for my 95 rrc but it didnt fit!) if its right, make me an offer for it?
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 06:55 AM
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Does anyone know if there are mid-year differences for a 95 RRC ignition? I need to replace the ignition in my sister's truck, and dont want the above happening. I have not pulled the steering column cover off yet to look at it. The key keeps getting stuck in it. I pulled fuse #12 once and it worked, but doesnt work anymore. So I'm also not 100% sure it's the ignition, and might be the gear shift selector solenoid. Any thoughts are appreciated.

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by signalMTB View Post
Does anyone know if there are mid-year differences for a 95 RRC ignition? I need to replace the ignition in my sister's truck, and dont want the above happening. I have not pulled the steering column cover off yet to look at it. The key keeps getting stuck in it. I pulled fuse #12 once and it worked, but doesnt work anymore. So I'm also not 100% sure it's the ignition, and might be the gear shift selector solenoid. Any thoughts are appreciated.
The 1995 model year for RRC models saw no changes in the ignition switch assembly. There were no changes to the gear selector mechanism either.

Curiously, the ignition switch that the guy from 2013 bought was on for a manual transmission Discovery. For a long time, unscrupulous sellers on eBay were selling them without really making clear that it was something of a bitch to get them to work on '95 RRC's. I have heard people got them to work but I never saw one successfully installed on the hundreds of '95's I've had my hands on.

If it turns out you need either an ignition switch assembly or a gear selector assembly with a good solenoid, I have both used, in good working condition.
Cheers,
Paul

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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-05-2018, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Grant View Post
The 1995 model year for RRC models saw no changes in the ignition switch assembly. There were no changes to the gear selector mechanism either.

Curiously, the ignition switch that the guy from 2013 bought was on for a manual transmission Discovery. For a long time, unscrupulous sellers on eBay were selling them without really making clear that it was something of a bitch to get them to work on '95 RRC's. I have heard people got them to work but I never saw one successfully installed on the hundreds of '95's I've had my hands on.

If it turns out you need either an ignition switch assembly or a gear selector assembly with a good solenoid, I have both used, in good working condition.
Cheers,
Paul
hey thanks Paul ... so to replace the solenoid, I need the whole assembly? Admittedly I have not even looked at RAVE or where to start with troubleshooting the solenoid. Any and all advice is greatly appreciated (from you or the community).

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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-06-2018, 08:45 AM
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This is where the gear change solenoid is located on a 1995 Range Rover Classic. To access it, you would need to remove the center console and drill out the rivets that hold the metal closing panel in place atop the transmission hump. Once the selector assembly is out, it's a PITA to then access the solenoid for removal and replacement. That's why I suggest replacing the entire shift assembly instead of just the solenoid. Another reason is cost. A new solenoid may cost you well over $300 (if you can find one) whereas you can expect to pay about $100 for a used gear selector assembly.

Frankly, I'd put my money on a bad ignition switch. It's either one of two things. First, the switch is just trashed from years of use. The tumblers are worn and the key simply can't find release. The other, more likely possibility is that the solenoid in the switch has gone bad.

Below are front and back photos of the ignition switch for your '95. Notice, on the back side the brass colored assembly that's screwed onto the tumbler assembly with two philips head screws. That's the solenoid assembly. Remove that and unplug the black and orange wiring assembly using a small flathead screwdriver to remove the black connecting end and you should no longer have a problem.
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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Paul Grant View Post

Frankly, I'd put my money on a bad ignition switch. It's either one of two things. First, the switch is just trashed from years of use. The tumblers are worn and the key simply can't find release. The other, more likely possibility is that the solenoid in the switch has gone bad.

Below are front and back photos of the ignition switch for your '95. Notice, on the back side the brass colored assembly that's screwed onto the tumbler assembly with two philips head screws. That's the solenoid assembly. Remove that and unplug the black and orange wiring assembly using a small flathead screwdriver to remove the black connecting end and you should no longer have a problem.
Thanks Paul, are you saying I could unplug that and the key will release (if it's a solenoid issue)? Also, or if not, do you have a nice used ignition assembly I could buy?

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 09:28 AM
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If you remove the entire solenoid piece you will be able to remove the key. The thing is, and maybe someone else will have a better memory, with the solenoid out, it may be possible to remove the key when it’s in any position, including with the engine running. I can’t remember and I don’t have a complete truck here to test.

That said, it’s worth a try and if the solenoid delete poses a problem, I do have a nice ignition switch assembly that I can provide with working keys.
Cheers,
Paul

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 11-12-2018, 11:37 AM
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If you remove the entire solenoid piece you will be able to remove the key. The thing is, and maybe someone else will have a better memory, with the solenoid out, it may be possible to remove the key when itís in any position, including with the engine running. I canít remember and I donít have a complete truck here to test.

That said, itís worth a try and if the solenoid delete poses a problem, I do have a nice ignition switch assembly that I can provide with working keys.
Cheers,
Paul
got it, thanks Paul for the excellent effort here. Will report back

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