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New to RRC but not to wrenches. Crank but no start issue

3K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  Marthijn 
#1 ·
Hello all. I am new to the Range Rover world and I picked a doozy of a vehicle for my dive into it. I bought a 1995 RRC from a friend of a friend. They were the second owners and have had the truck since 1997. It has 157k on the odometer and up until this no start issue it supposedly ran fine and was a daily driver. Anyways on to the problem and what I have checked

Vehicle cranks strong but doesn't even try to catch.

I tested for fuel pressure while cranking and it is approx. 40psi and drops to approx. 35psi with key off. I have spark to every spark plug but it looks weak. I have confirmed timing is accurate. I also have the smell of unburnt fuel in the exhaust, I loaned out my noid light set so I currently cant check injector pulse. I cleaned the engine ground strap. and checked the connections on the ignition amplifier module. Each cylinder has approx. 137psi of compression dry.

The spark plugs, ignition wires, and distributor cap are all new. The battery is new.

But even with starter fluid the engine doesn't even try to catch. What am I Missing?!?!?!?!
 
#3 ·
Have you checked the timing yet? We know it's getting air, fuel and spark now we just need to know if it's happening when it should
 
#9 ·
You mentioned the cap and rotor, wires, and plugs are new? If the distributor hasn't been R&R it's not likely 180 out unless the wires were installed 180 out. Have you double checked the firing order and direction the rotor rotates? Just a thought.

I've also had ignition issues due to bad grounding. I know you mentioned the ground strap was checked but the also said spark looks weak. You could try adding a ground or jumper ground to battery to test. That current has to have a route back to the battery.


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#10 ·
If you changed the rotor button you could have disturbed the shaft of the distributor. They have a plastic clip holding the top section of the shaft to the lower section. They become brittle with age and often break if you pull too hard on the rotor button to remove it. It will screw up your timing and could easily put the timing out 180 degrees.

Has it ran since you owned it. If not you do not know whether the distributor had been removed or not.

You say that there is smell of unburnt fuel from exhaust. Have you actually pulled the plugs after trying to start it to see if they are wet?
 
#11 ·
If a engine gets starter fluid and a spark it should fire. without any computer or injection system.

if this is not happening there is A: no compression: piston damage (compression test) or timing chain snapped or jumped a teeth
B: there is no spark

Are you shure the rotor arm is turning when you cranck it?
When you put the cranckshaft pulley on TDC is the rotorarm on nr 1 cilinder ( first attempt is not ok try another 180 degree)

Or igntion is faulty, everything is brittle on it as mentioned before, absolute far better alternatives nowadays ( Mallory but the best is 123ignition)

I hope you get some result
 
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