Easy swivel leak fix? - Page 2 - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #16 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 10:50 PM
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I hold you Aussies in awe... is it the great tucker and warmth? Up here in Canada, with only rations of aged pemmican and frozen fingers, we'll never match your speed!

Cheers, Pavel.
The cold makes you work faster.
Broke a CV up in the snow one time. It took me 1 1/4 hours to replace it in the snow with a spare I carry. I only had engine oil to put back in and I was not 100% sure I got all the broken bits out. So I did it again when I got home in the garage in the warmth with all the correct tools, jacks etc. It took me 3 hours to do the same job in the garage.
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post #17 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 04:19 AM
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You people want to do it the hard way. There is no need to disassemble the hub at all. Just remove the brake calliper and unbolt the swivel housing from the diff housing. Slide the whole hub assemble out, bringing the axles with it. Then just remove the out seal and fit the new one and slide the whole assembly back in and bolt it up. Takes only about 30 minutes a side.

Cutting seals just defeats the purpose of fitting a new seal.

Finally, Land Rover did not go to grease because it is better than oil, they did it as grease does not leak as easily. Oil is a lot better to use.
Ian-thank you for bringing reason into this equation.

Why folks want to half-ass jobs that if not done right can cost them a broken down truck, more expensive repairs and the risk of failure at the most inopportune time is beyond me!

Cheers Mate!

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post #18 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 04:25 AM
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Originally Posted by p76rangie View Post
The cold makes you work faster.
Broke a CV up in the snow one time. It took me 1 1/4 hours to replace it in the snow with a spare I carry. I only had engine oil to put back in and I was not 100% sure I got all the broken bits out. So I did it again when I got home in the garage in the warmth with all the correct tools, jacks etc. It took me 3 hours to do the same job in the garage.
After reading about a challenege team changing a CV joint in seven minutes, I once timed myself in disassembling a front hub.

As my wife and I were going to the theatre that evening and the truck was late being delivered, I did this in my bathrobe no less.

11 minutes from driven onto the lift to a fully disassembled hub/swivel assembly.

The young man had grenaded the lower swivel pin bearing.

I will admit that this truck had belonged to a body shop before this young man and had me maintain it for years before they sold it so the fasteners were probably in better condition than most, and I did have all the tools laid out in orderly fashion before beginning, but I was pretty pleased with that pace.

Now that I have the tool truck, I've obtained some tools that have made the job even easier and faster. The t-handle ratcheting box wrench is a huge time saver for removing swivel balls from axle housings.

Yes, I am still alive, and still in the Rover parts business.
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post #19 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 06:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by PTSchram View Post
*challenege team changing a CV joint in seven minutes
*11 minutes from driven onto the lift to a fully disassembled hub/swivel assembly.
*had me maintain it for years before they sold it so the fasteners were probably in better condition than most, and I did have all the tools laid out in orderly fashion before beginning
*The t-handle ratcheting box wrench is a huge time saver for removing swivel balls from axle housings.
You are forgetting a few key points:
1 I've never done this procedure before
2 I go into shock when I see British engineering which requires a rest &/or a beer to recover
3 I don't have all the perfect tools at hand
4 I'm old, slow thinking/moving and lazy
5 I clean (paint?) everything as I go which wastes considerable time

I know what a "ratcheting box wrench" is but what's the "T-handle"?

Cheers, Pavel

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post #20 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-26-2014, 08:08 AM
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I know what a "ratcheting box wrench" is but what's the "T-handle"?

Cheers, Pavel
You have to remember that PT sells snap-on tools, so this is probably what he is referring to Snap ON Tools 10mm T Handle Ratcheting BOX Wrench RTBM10 | eBay
I have not seen one before, but it looks interesting. You would pull and push on the T handle to work the small ratchet spanner on the end that is on a pin pivot connected to the handle.

But there are also spanners like I posted on the recent thread dealing with the power steering bolt that would get in there as well.

But then again you maybe should have ditched the standard bracket while you had it off so that you can get to it next time. I have brackets that extend the brake lines up so that you can get extra axle travel without stretching the brake lines.

PS. you know I have just been joking with you with most of my comments. I would hate for you to take them seriously
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post #21 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 07:24 AM
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I have used the same repair that Ian states as well. But What I find is usually there is a reason the seal is leaking in the first place. Rusted or pitted swivels...which will tear the seal up. Also the preload on the swivel itself may need to be re done.
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post #22 of 24 (permalink) Old 08-27-2014, 08:14 AM Thread Starter
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rovermech,

The seal in our Disco was 18 years old and, compared to the replacement, was no longer soft and compliant when examined. I've found, in general that "rubber" parts on these vehicles (most brit cars?) aren't as long lasting as on our old American vehicles. We have both Ford and Willys jeep vehicles which have original engine and axle seals (even window gaskets) still functional after 50 years.

p76rangie, don't worry, no offense. I have a very very thick hide (being a boarding school product). The "T-handle box end wrench" design looks very useful but I'd like to actually see one in action. Also, the Snap-on prices are too dear for me.

Cheers, Pavel

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post #23 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-11-2018, 08:21 PM
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I replaced both hub assemblies thinking it was the cause of the leak when I didn't need to.

Does anyone have a link for the genuine Land Rover Axle Seal ? Also for the boot which is now rotting off from the oil dripping. Is the leak coming from the Swivel ball or the front Diff housing?
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post #24 of 24 (permalink) Old 12-12-2018, 07:36 AM
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Garage
This is an OLD D1 topic.
Count the swivel balls on your D2



Total = zero

Happy Happy Happy

2002 D2 se7 6 seater . complete engine rebuild with flanged liners , 2 inch lift, terrafirma shocks, LT 275/65r18 Cooper stt tires, d1 modified front bumper, safety devices rack, 30" l.e.d. Light bar
2004 D2 se5 (sold)
2001 D2 se5 (parts truck)
2000 D2 se7 (retired)
1997 D1 (sold)
1957 Series 1 88" future projet
2006 Suburu legacy outback (gets me around when the disco is not)
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