Tachometer not working - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 07:21 AM Thread Starter
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Tachometer not working

Bought a used 1995 Landrover Discovery last month with a non functioning Tachometer. Any suggestions on where I should start to look for the problem?

Thanks in advance to all who replhttp://landroversonly.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif
y!
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 07:57 AM
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Alot of times that means the alternator is on it's way out. Is it out all the time or does it pop back to life after driving the truck for a few miles?
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 09:47 AM
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Badger is right, your alt is on the way out.

Do a search here for "alternator" - there's a ton of info on both OEM and HD aftermarket replacements.

How many miles on your Disco? While you're changing the alt, you may as well replace the serpentine belt and the belt tensioner (if they haven't been replaced before).

Is this your first LR or your latest fix? Are you thinking of modifying it? Post some pictures!

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 12:25 PM
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Mine was just a loose connection on the back of the alternator. Bent it so it fit tighter and I've put about 30k on since with no alternator problem.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 01:09 PM
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Good point- the tach can indicate a failing alternator, but it can also just mean a bad tach or connection.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-22-2006, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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It's out all the time
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-23-2006, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brahmabullet
It's out all the time
Well before I started replacing expensive parts I'd have someone sit inside and I'd fiddle with the connection at the alternator to see if the tach starts moving. If it doesn't, then it's probably something else. I'm not sure if there's fuses involved with the tach or not (I don't have a manual), but I'd check into that, too. Absent either of those, I'd check the back of the tach to make sure that's plugged in. Before replacing the alternator, I'd a) check the output from the alternator and b) check the wire continutity from the tack to the alt. You can do this with an ohmmeter. Just to make sure the wire isn't broken someplace. Abesent any of the aforementioned it could be the tach is bad or the alt is going.

JH
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-23-2006, 07:25 AM
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Very good point! Though it never hurts to have a functioning alternator as a spare, it's better if you get the simple/inexpensive stuff checked first.

The alternator comes out pretty easily and quickly, you could probably have it tested in 15 - 20 minutes. I know some auto part stores test starters free of charge, do they test alternators, too?

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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 01-23-2006, 06:52 PM
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You don't need to take the alternator out to test it, all you need to do is start the engine, put a voltmeter on the pos and net battery terminals and see how many volts it's putting out when charging.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 05:15 PM
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Thanks guys this was a big help. Battery with motor off read 12.5v, started motor and it showed 14.7volts.

I tightened the central clip with long nosed pliers put it back on and now I have my taco back .

Much appreciated.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 08-11-2014, 07:06 PM
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just happened to me, alt...

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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018, 08:57 AM
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hello can you please answer me? what do you mean central clip can you explain precise?
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 02-15-2018, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhmover View Post
You don't need to take the alternator out to test it, all you need to do is start the engine, put a voltmeter on the pos and net battery terminals and see how many volts it's putting out when charging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LenL View Post
Thanks guys this was a big help. Battery with motor off read 12.5v, started motor and it showed 14.7volts.

I tightened the central clip with long nosed pliers put it back on and now I have my taco back .

Much appreciated.
hello can you please answer me? what do you mean central clip can you explain precise?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 11-16-2018, 10:01 AM
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There's a spade blade at the back of the alternator with a plastic female connector feeding a single 16 or 18 gauge wire.
This loose connection causes the tach to bounce around or stop working completly.
Clamp down on that female connector with plies just enough to to close the gap of the brass contacts for a firm fit onto the blade on the back of the alternator.
In regards to the alternator and starter they are a remove and replace item completely including the distributor if your own a 95 or older LR.
LR dealerships enjoy making a big profit giving you a big dollar replacement bill.
LR in the US do not sell alternator or starter bearings and brushes (small parts) which are the only wearing items needing replacing if the stator, rotor and diodes meter as good.
Bearings and brushes (small parts) for alternators and starters can be had and ordered from England costing way less like 1/30 the cost than a complete alternator and starter replacement.
Spare alternator and starter I rebuilt in storage at my end should I have a failure including a spare distributor which is very hard to find at Pick-n-Pulls these days.
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