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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-18-2009, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
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Valve Train Issues!!

Has anyone had Valve train issues with any Discos 1996-98 years. I just got news from the shop that I'm having some sort of problem with my exhaust valve and there telling me that I have to redo the top end. I took the truck in to have them check this ticking sound that was coming from the engine. I replaced the cats, gaskets for the manifold, have check out the hole exhaust system everything is solid, and the sound has now become non stop when accelerating at any speed. It sounds like a tin taping sound. I keep getting a code P1177 misfire. All the shop tells me is just get a new truck sell this thing and don't put the money into her. Can anyone give me advice on this issue. what do you think this should cost me to fix or should I find a new motor? or just get put the disco up for sale. Thanks for all your time into helping me.

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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 06:47 AM
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There is a Land Rover Bulletin on carbon build-up on exhaust valves. Bottom line the repair involves a valve job (pulling the heads and having the heads reworked) and either replacing the exhaust valves with a new carbon cutting style valves or cleaning and enlarging the exhaust valve guides. At this point with the tapping the carbon is probably built-up so much that top end type fuel cleaners won't help you - but prior to a costly valve job - I'd give some of the snake oils a try. Lucus Fuel injector cleaner, DB44, Seafom, Marvel Mystry oil - probably a dozen other snake oils that can be run through either the gas or intake on a vacuum. The goal of these cleaners being to flush out he bult-up carbon from the top end of the motor thus eliminating the carbon build-up that is so thick it is interfering with valves or top of the pistons causing the tapping. If you try flushing the carbon understand it will take multiple applications, and regular treatments to keep issues away.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 03:21 PM
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If you live anywhere outside of the northeast, then I'd be inclined to take the shops advice and sell her and get another one. Disco prices in the northeast are a bit overpriced, but just about every place else - there are great deals to be found. I would not put a couple thousand into fixing the heads knowing that other parts of the engine are likely worn as well. I'd just replace the engine in that event. Either way, considering the deals to be had on another Disco - I'd preference selling and putting that "repair" money towards another vehicle. Obviously only you can decide if that's the best course of action for yourself...

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 05:08 PM
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I don't know, I think i'd try the "drain the oil, fill with atf, run for 20min, set for 20min, run for twenty min.
then drain, flilter & new oil.

I'd try that twice, with a short drive (10mi) in between, if it seemed headed nowhere, I'd pull the exh manifold on that side (easy) look & exh valve with flashlight & mirror b/4 I threw in the towel.

What if it's only a sticking lifter?

My '97 gets atf flush every year.

luck,greg

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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 06:32 PM
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mine taps after warm up so I figure I probly got a beat lifter, but the engine runs smooth and no pops in the exhaust unless i rev it a few times, I figured these were like the old slant 6 dodge engines that always tap, do you have a pop in the exhaust idleing? did they do a compression test? does it idle rough? pop in the ex at idle and rough idle I would lean toward sticking or burnt valve same if you have a cylinder with extra low compression, this is my first rover so i am just speaking in general with engines

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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 08:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone. The shop told me as last remedy to take it to a place that has a machine that can run a system cleaner. Then if that doesn't work then take it back to them to do a compression check on the engine and go from there. The disco runs strong . I myself today used Amsoil Engine Flush ran the truck for twenty minutes changed the oil & filter. Also used seafoam in the gas tank. It ran good for moment, I ran it on the highway for less than a mile or so and the sound returned. I almost think that another time with a engine flush might work. But fear that I have to do a valve job. Along with that I feel that I invest in doing that with other parts that I think that might need replacement since the truck is getting torn apart that far should be change If I decide to keep the disco. The truck has lots of leaks from seals from the head gaskets to valve covers, power steering to oil lines from the oil pump small leak from the radiator. I checked Atlantic British web site at the parts, this is what it would cost for parts
1 ERR3443 VISCOUS FAN CLUTCH
$149.95

2 ERR7280 GASKET - FRONT COVER
$8.95

3 602087 GASKET - OIL PAN
$8.95

4 9240 TRANSMISSION FILTER KIT - ZF AUTOMATIC
$59.95
5 9397D HOSE KIT - POWER STEERING
$114.95

6 9009A TIMING CHAIN KIT - WITH 4.0 MOTOR
$109.95

7 ETC4765GK THERMOSTAT WITH GASKET - 190F - FROM 1987
$14.95

8 9370DC HOSE KIT
$104.95

9 9205G PCV KIT - GEMS ENGINE
$24.95

10 STC4378OE WATER PUMP - ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT
$179.95

11 STC4082HBK HEAD GASKET SET COMPOSITE V8 ( WITH HEAD BOLT SET )
$195.95

Order Subtotal *: $973.45

Now I just have to find out what it will cost to do all the work. The place where I go that I only know of charges 89.00 an hour for all labor. Is this a good rate or should I try to find someone else. Does anyone know of a good shop in the Eureka Ca. Arcata Ca area would help so much.

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 08:35 AM
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those part prices you listed are high, my trans filter kit for my 1998 disco was only $15 usd at autozone, shop around you can do better on prices, my plug wires were $27 pre greased and same high temp and same diameter as the lucas ones with correct boots, i am very suprised the parts i am able to get from pep boys and autozone, think my rear brake pads were under $30, you may be able to get a shop thats around $75 p/h labor but also some shops will charge you more if you buy your own parts cause they are not makin a profit on the parts, most shops mark up parts 10% over their cost +/- in my experiance

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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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So I have talk to another person who says to do a intake system cleaning. That should fix the problem. If this doesn't work then I would have to do a valve job. Hope this works.

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoveryHV View Post
So I have talk to another person who says to do a intake system cleaning. That should fix the problem. If this doesn't work then I would have to do a valve job. Hope this works.
Ask disko mike about the benefits of an ATF flush on your engine.

As I said above, I'd do it myself several times.

The sludge/varish buildup isn't goin away easy, think how long it took to get that way, if that's what is wrong.

It's worth trying several times, way cheaper than a teardown.

If your primary concern is the ticking noise, and you've eliminated an exh manifold leak, the next likely is a lifter sticking.
Especially if it went away and came back.

Intake cleaning will do nothing for a sticking lifter.

luck,greg

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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 02:38 PM
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Your being given correct information. Sounds like and carbon fouling for sure. What's your truck worth to you? If it where mine I'd go ahead and have the work done because it's cheaper than having a car payment......ymmv.
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-20-2009, 03:19 PM
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flushing the motor will not help carbon build-up. Maybe if the motor is gunked-up or has a lifter issue but carbon build-up is not the same as a gunked-up motor, the 96 GEMs 4.0 Disco was mostly effected by carbon build-up issues. Carbon build up comes from poor fuel or lots of in town driving or long idle periods. The carbon is in the intake, head ports, on the valve stems and back of the valves and on the tops of the pistons. It may take more than one application of a cleaner to realize benefits and stop any tapping from carbon build-up. If the carbon has built-up enough to tap run double doses for 3 - 4 tanks of gas. You can also disable the fuel pump and put a stong mixture of gas and cleaner in a pressure pump and run it through the fuel rail but is sounds as if you are using folks to help you. Don't give up yet. Run some Lucus injector cleaner and Marvel Mystery oil in the thing - double doses. after doing this you are probably going to need to install new plugs - they will foul. Flushing the motor may help for other reasons but if it carbon build-up flushng the motor is not doing anything
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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So another day at another crazy repair shop. I was refer to go to this shop that has the only machine that cleans out the intake and this guy thought he was mr I know land rovers. Tried telling him all I know went down the list of stuff that I have done to the truck, he didn't want to hear that I knew a bit about this disco. became a big pain in the ass. Now because of all the testing to my truck from all these mechanics trying to figure out where this chirping sound is coming from. My transmission is making this high revving noise in first in second gear. To get the sound to happen they figured they would put the truck in Drive brake it and rev it till it made that chirping sound. It's on going for this truck I swear. They say it's the valves and a total tare down to see what's happening. The engine runs strong I don't get it.

So if it's a sticky lifter what does that mean. A tear down ..

The only shop that I trust, the owner is cool go's to auctions and show's me that he can get a 2002 range rover with 90,000 miles for 8,000 bucks. Right there on the computer screen a dreamy Range Rover. 8,000 bucks. or 2003 with 75,000 Discovery3 if I'm correct for 1,500 dollars. I think it was the first year of the new body style for Discovery 3. He's telling me sale the truck and buy another one. I found a used engine that has 45,000 miles for 1200 bucks too and the shop wants 1200 bucks to install it too. 2,400 bucks to hopefully have a good engine.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 03:39 PM
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just sell it - - I'll buy it shipped to my house for $500
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 04:36 PM
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unfortunatly real good mechanics can sometimes be hard to find and finding" know it all" mechanics that jump to conclusions(usualy the most expensive repair they can think of)can be easy, in all this running from shop to shop has anyone done a compression test to prove wheather it is the valves? if this is carbon buildup on the valves then you clean the intake syatm and do what was said above with additives in gas to try and solve it, if the noise is a collapsed lifter ytou need to try flushing the oil systm as said above, a compression test should let you know where you stand, reving the engine does nothing but let you know that yup theres a noise lets make a wag (wild ass guess)about what it is, i am new to rovers but engines are engines

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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 04-21-2009, 05:44 PM
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'At's a shame

'96 RR SE - sold dammit
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'97 D1 SE7 - I'll be buried in it
Like Flukey

Some bushings, Ford injectors, airtex fuel pump, timing chain , valve covers, crankcase scraped clean, side exhaust, twin 4" 110watts on bumper, sony, twin 12" electric fans, timing chain, guages, waterpump, no front sway, cut off front apron, 245/70/16 sumitomo all-terrains, front shock towers, shocks, starter, alternator, window reg mod, clean MAF, autolite plugs & autozone wires 50k and counting, front hubs, rod bearings, freed CDL, balljoints, Sony sound, u-joints, etc.


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