|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-08-2010 02:54 PM|
|KevinNY||Sounds like a new master cylinder is next. It's actually a very easy job if you remove the wing. I just did it last weekend.|
|09-08-2010 01:54 PM|
OK, so I bled the clutch and here's what happened:
1). I was able to depress clutch to floor while bleed valve was open.
2). We cleared out all dirty clutch fluid and kept it topped off.
3). When I was able to depress the clutch, I was also able to shift gears as you normally would be able to.
4). When we close the valve each depression of the clutch would allow less downward motion. So it might be 3/4 first pump, then half and then stay at 1/4, not allowing you to depress any futher (kind of locking up).
5). As soon as we closed the valve and allowed the clutch pedal back up, we could never depress to the floor and shift gears again until we opened the bleed valve again.
Does this suggest a leak? Or if not that, then what?
|08-16-2010 11:18 PM|
as i recall, series 3 hydrostatic clutch is not adjustable, the length of throw is predetermined.
hydro pressure on the clutch release seems most viable, if this can be eliminated, IE: ensure slave cylinder rod is indeed retracted, then you have a issue in the bell housing.
use some good hardware when you put it back together!
|08-09-2010 08:17 PM|
|Greg S||I had one lock up in the down position, the pushrod in the master cylinder had bent to a 90 degree angle. My foot was on the pedal at the time but I can't explain how it happened. Simply depressed the pedal and it wouldn't come up.|
|08-09-2010 11:38 AM|
|tuxmiller||Nope, it's still in an upright and locked position. Can't even force it down. On to plan "B"...|
|08-08-2010 06:36 AM|
Don't sit there with a shit eating grin on your face, pumping away, and saying 'oh goody,, no more problem.' because you'll just hydrolock it again.
After you were successfully able to push the pedal down once, go get you green bible and adjust the pedal freeplay, and then you can go play.
|08-08-2010 05:13 AM|
|tuxmiller||wow. thanks. what do I do if it's hydro-locked?|
|08-07-2010 05:05 PM|
If the pedal can not be pressed towards the floor, it seems more mechanical, and perhaps, now, the pedal cross pin is so coked as to prevent any pedal shaft motion.
Another possibility is that the check valve on the end of the master piston isn't releasing, because there is pressure in the line still with the pedal all the way up. A few operations of the pedal could have slowly pushed the slave to it's limit, and now the system is hydrolocked. This is probably due to a badly adjusted pedal piston rod.
|08-07-2010 03:46 PM|
Clutch Won't Depress Series III
I'm depressed, but my clutch isn't.
Driving home today in my sweet little lemon, the gears stopped catching smoothly as I shifted. The engine would race a little and then it would catch as I eased up on the gas pedal. Then I could tell I was starting to lose my grip as I could barely make it up a hill.
As I turned into my driveway the clutch would no longer depress. It's locked in the upright position, just like the flight attendant would want it, but that's not how I want it to be. I want it to depress so I can switch gears, which, in turn, will allow me to drive again.
I checked the clutch fluid reservoir and guess what? It was full, so that's not the problem.
Do I have a master and/or slave problem?