|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-22-2019 02:02 PM|
Originally Posted by OldManRunning View Post
Here's how I replaced the switch, it was pretty easy:
1. Remove the four top bolts on the grill cover (torx or flathead screwdriver). The grill cover is now loose and gives you some wiggle room.
2. Remove the Pax side headlight.
- Two obvious bolts on top.
- This is the cute part. There's a plastic latch on the bottom, but you release by pressing the black plastic extension lever on the top of the headlight assembly behind the headlight. It's obvious when you look behind the headlight.
- Unplug the headlight electrical harness, remove headlight.
3. Now you can access the two bolts that hold the hood latch in place, remove these with a socket and fingers (need to pull the grill cover away a bit).
4. Locate and unplug the latch electrical connector from behind. It has a plastic lock tab to squeeze, then pull straight back.
5. Now you can pull the entire latch assembly out from the engine side. It's still attached to the latch cable, so move it towards the driver side to get some free play and wiggle it out around the PS hoses.
6. Now that it's out you can easily get a grip and release the plastic lock tabs on the switch, remove and replace the switch.
7. Re-assembly is the reverse. Don't forget to plug in the switch connector, or your car won't lock! You can do this at the very end if you forget. Same for the headlight plug, but it's easier to install with the headlight partly out.
If you just wanted to short the connector I think you could access that from behind on the engine side without removing anything.
|11-17-2018 05:55 PM|
|OldManRunning||Super helpful post. Unlike other suggestions about taking off the grill (not easy in my 2011 LR2), I could get the switch connector out from the engine side. On the engine side of the connector and on the top, there is a flexible arm that can be pushed down to unhook the connector. A little jiggling while pulling gently released the connector. I made my jumper from a length of coax cable core and taped it in place. Tested it with the hood open and started the car. No Open Bonnet message. Sweet.|
|07-28-2016 07:46 PM|
|sierrafery||That doesnt sound correct to me, AFAIK that assy is plug and play, have some patience and download this http://www.d-lander.com/manuals/Freelander2_Manual.pdf (large file) you can find accurate info in it in the proper repair section|
|07-28-2016 07:13 PM|
This problem has been happening for the last 8 months or so. I took it to my local mechanic and while he would be able to put a new switch in (I don't mind the $49 part) he said it needs to be programmed by Land Rover to actually associate with the car, which would mean an outrageous cost from the dealership.
Is this true? Just looking to confirm...
|12-16-2015 03:45 PM|
|roninm5605||I am having this problem also. I wish I had read the whole forum post first so I could have avoided pulling off the entire front grill. Anyway, I called the Portland dealership to see if there was a switch in stock. I was informed that the switch no longer comes by itself. It is now a part of the latch assembly. $49. Still cheaper than having my mechanic replace it. I'll write back when I get the unit installed.|
|05-21-2015 09:36 PM|
|JimzAMX||Recently started having this same problem. I noticed a note in the display that said "bonnet open" when I put the key in place, so I suspected a switch was the problem. Glad to see this confirmed by others and a simple fix.|
|09-09-2014 01:55 PM|
OK, guys, this has plagued me for a couple of months. My horn would randomly go off it was armed; i'd get the warning on my dash as i was driving; and i sometime had problems arming my LR2 after reaching my destination.
Following this thread, I decided to hunt down the issue. If you remove the passenger-side headlight (2 screws on top, squeeze plunger behind light, slide light straight out), you'll gain EASY access to the sensor/connection.
There are two pins you need to depress on either side of the sensor (faces the grille) and the whole housing slides down. From here, you can squeeze the clip on the wire side and disconnect the sensor. Jump the sensor as outlined in the previous post.
Slide the other side of the sensor back into place.
Remedy took all of 10 minutes.
|12-29-2013 05:52 AM|
It has been quite awhile ago and my memory of it is pretty fuzzy, but I had that same issue and replaced the switch and my problem went away and had never come back. Probably over a year and a half ago. Yes, it is very tight working in there, but I managed to replace it. I did break the old one when I was taking it out because I could not determine how the switch locked in place. The locking tab is in the front, toward the grill. Once I got the old one out, and understood how the two pieces were locked together, installing the new one was relatively easy...although the working space is horrendous.
I haven't taken the 08 LR2 to the dealer since the warranty expired, I'm sure they would charge a fortune to fix the hood switch. It was very satisfying to have fixed it myself and saved the money. I wish I could remember more specifics, but like I said the biggest revelation was discovering that the locking mechanism was on the grill side of the switch. I will take a look at it again today or tomorrow and see if I can recall any other information as I look at it again.
|12-28-2013 05:27 AM|
Originally Posted by calldrop View Post
|08-12-2013 07:35 AM|
Manually Lock doors
I have found when I manually lock the doors the alarm doesn't go off. I've had this issue for several months and basically just was accustom to leaving the vehicle unlocked or far enough away when the alarm does go off.
Thanks for posting the work around with the photos, I will try and report back!
|08-08-2013 08:54 AM|
Wow thanks for that post. I have been plagued with this same problem for 6 months and don't want to pay the dealer to (not)fix it. I will try this tonight. It's happening several times a day now and is quite annoying.
Incidentally, I thought that I would just try to disable the alarm system. In the owner's manual, it shows a fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box that is marked 'alarm'. I pulled it and indeed the alarm doesn't work. But neither do the remote controls or the power locks. Doh!
|06-22-2013 06:47 AM|
finally ... a 'temporarily' fix to the issue
here is a photo sequence of what I did
I detached the 'plug' from the switch and used a wire to 'short' the plug.
This way the car's system sees the 'switch' as always closed.
And the alarm doesn't go off at night anymore
The first pictures shows the area in which you can find the plug. (it right under the hinge opening)
The second picture shows you what the plug looks like before you pull it out.
The third picture shows you what the final 'product' looks like.
I hope this helped someone
|06-21-2013 07:24 PM|
I finally found it (its on the right side of the car under the hood hatch).
Do i just cut the two wires going into it and "short" them?
Or do i have to remove the switch?
I tried removing the switch but it was not going anywhere.
|06-21-2013 06:52 PM|
Hi 406, this is driving me crazy!
I have had the same issue for almost 6 months now.
I took the car to the dealer and they 'fixed' it ... only for the issue to come back after around 3 weeks.
I cannot find this switch ... could you please take a picture of its location and share it with us?
|01-15-2013 02:22 PM|
Closing update - if anyone is still reading this.
The CD with the Workshop Manual that I ordered via e-Bay arrived from the UK arrived and I now know how to install the new hood switch I purchased. However, I don't care (and neither does my wife and it's her car) about a dash warning that the hood/bonnet is open - I've driven for many decades without such a warning, so I think I can survive a little longer without one and the "shorting plug" I made will be more reliable. This will prevent any issues related to that switch and the car alarm system.
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