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Thread: Heated Seats Quick/Easy Fix! Reply to Thread
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  Topic Review (Newest First)
12-07-2018 05:41 AM
1stgenxxx The seat heaters in my 93 don't work. Both lower grids were bad so I bought universal seat heaters from amazon. I don't trust the problematic relay mess so I'm going to run new wiring and attempt to use the stock switches. The seat heater kits are only 50$ish shipped
06-01-2018 11:47 AM
WLADiscoII99
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sign Guy View Post
For all of those whose heated seats no longer work there is a VERY easy way to at least get the seat back toasty again.

1. Raise both seat rears up as far as they will go.
2. Push down on the leather at the rear of the bottom cushion and remove the retaining clip along the bottom edge of the seat to reveal the back of the bottom seat cushion.
3. Clip the black and red wires coming out of the bottom cushion making sure to leave enough wire to be able to crimp on to (in case you want to ever go through fixing all of the breaks in the bottom cushion)
4. Join the wires together with a barrel crimp.
5. Bump the fuse up from a 20 to a 25.
6. Replace the retaining clip.
7. Toast your kidneys with warmth!!

Total time:10 minutes at most

BTW, you probably want to check that fuse FIRST!

Bill
93 LWB Westminster


What models of Land Rovers does this work on ? Are my seats going to BBQ ?
06-01-2018 08:02 AM
Sebastian Hanig thank you very much for this post - i did it the same way, works perfectly ...
02-05-2007 08:41 AM
daway
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sign Guy
They are both controlled through the drivers switch. You are basically going from a total of 4 heated panels controlled by 2 switches to 2 heated panels controlled by 1.
thanks alot for all the info. i wish i could work on them now. around -20 to-30F w/windchill over the last wkend and warming up in the teen this wk!!!
02-05-2007 08:19 AM
Sign Guy They are both controlled through the drivers switch. You are basically going from a total of 4 heated panels controlled by 2 switches to 2 heated panels controlled by 1.
02-05-2007 07:28 AM
daway
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sign Guy
Finally had a chance to run the seats in series and it works great! Put the 20 amp fuse back in and no problems. I think they may even be kicking in and out once to temp. I used a shielded spade connector to create the circuit on the connector going into the passenger seat and then ran wire from the drivers side where I had previously cut and spliced the wires and connected them with the same on the passenger side and put everything back. Took about ten minutes.
thanks for the info. with the set up above, can u control the heat in the seats w/ both drivers and passagers side heated seat switch or does both come on w/ one switch?
thanks again
02-03-2007 02:59 PM
Sign Guy Finally had a chance to run the seats in series and it works great! Put the 20 amp fuse back in and no problems. I think they may even be kicking in and out once to temp. I used a shielded spade connector to create the circuit on the connector going into the passenger seat and then ran wire from the drivers side where I had previously cut and spliced the wires and connected them with the same on the passenger side and put everything back. Took about ten minutes.
01-24-2007 05:31 PM
8895rrc I have not gotten arrount to doing my homework on my seats yet. but I was thinking of that too. That should definitely work and be probably much easier and cheaper (free) then resistors. Only problems is negotiating with the wife about heat or no heat
01-24-2007 03:42 PM
Sign Guy What if you ran the passenger and drivers seat in series? Would that accomplish what we want? The drivers and passenger seat would be controlled by the drivers side switch but the load on the circuit "should" be close to the same as a seat back and cushion. It would be an easy (hah!, haven't I heard that b/f) fix until we get the right resistor figured out. Any thoughts???
01-24-2007 09:22 AM
daway
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8895rrc
Yes, the resistors on both seats would limit the total current. I might get to this tomorrow and will then post a update.

A.
any updates?
01-20-2007 01:30 PM
8895rrc
Quote:
Originally Posted by daway
do u think there is away to run the drivers and pass side at the same time?
Yes, the resistors on both seats would limit the total current. I might get to this tomorrow and will then post a update.

A.
01-20-2007 12:17 PM
ohiorover
Another option

I fixed my heated seat problem with another option. Moved to Miami. No tools required, but the offroading sucks.
01-20-2007 11:06 AM
daway
Quote:
Originally Posted by 8895rrc
Cool idea

Basic electrics:

If the 2 heating elements are wired in series then doing this would subject the upper element 2 twice the normal voltage, more current and thus, more heat. This seems to be the case here. A resistor would have to match or be close to the wattage of the element to replace the missing wattage of the lower half. It would have to be a fairly big resistor like the ones used on old VWs to convert the original 6V system to 12V. Another way would be to go to a higher value resistor which will dissipate less heat but the seat will not get as hot.

I will try this and measure the amp draw of the element to find the needed value of the resistor.
I would just use it as is and turn the switch off when it gets too hot. Also don't run the passenger and driver at the same time. Don't change the fuse, you might melt wires!

Thanks for this idea!
let us know what u come up w/! still cold up here and waiting to warm up to the 30's. but i guess this is good to wait and see what resistor u come up w/. my dad also said it would not b a good idea to up the fuse. do u think there is away to run the drivers and pass side at the same time?
01-19-2007 09:44 PM
8895rrc Cool idea

Basic electrics:

If the 2 heating elements are wired in series then doing this would subject the upper element 2 twice the normal voltage, more current and thus, more heat. This seems to be the case here. A resistor would have to match or be close to the wattage of the element to replace the missing wattage of the lower half. It would have to be a fairly big resistor like the ones used on old VWs to convert the original 6V system to 12V. Another way would be to go to a higher value resistor which will dissipate less heat but the seat will not get as hot.

I will try this and measure the amp draw of the element to find the needed value of the resistor.
I would just use it as is and turn the switch off when it gets too hot. Also don't run the passenger and driver at the same time. Don't change the fuse, you might melt wires!

Thanks for this idea!
01-18-2007 04:53 AM
Sign Guy That pic is taken with the camera on the floor board behind the passenger seat looking forward. You can see the retaining clip in the top portion of the picture. I can run either the passenger or the driver with 20 amp fuse in, just not both.

Sven, you've been running this mod for a while, do your seats get to a certain temp and then modulate or do you just switch them off after they have been on for a while?
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