[BILZCOLLECTOR]

Let me begin... I bought a pretty rough 04 d2 se with 93k miles for $800. It was a really nice truck at some point. I see through the ugly and hope to restore it. It appears to have a blown head gasket or exhaust gasket. I can't be sure because I can only start it once or twice every couple of days. Everything in it works except for one window. Yesterday I bought an 03 d2 s in great interior condition off of craigslist for $2250 with 132k miles. It runs perfectly except for the multitude of warning lights on the dash (I think they are called the three amigos). If I can get the 04 running, I'd like to swap out the parts to make the 04 really nice.

Unfortunatley I can't get the engine to start. I have taken the relays out of the 03 and tried them in the 04. They make no difference. I have swapped and reset the inertia switch to no avail either. I have pulled the rear interior of the 04 apart to get access to the fuel pump. The plug is intact and the fuel line has fuel pressure in it. I have also checked all of the fuses under the hood and under the steering wheel (not just the fuel ones) and everything is fine. I am at a complete loss as to what else it could be. The engine just turns and turns but wont start. I sprayed a shot of starter fluid into the intake manifold and it immediately responds. So for some reason it is not getting fuel. My brother put a code reader on it and it has one error, something about a break in the fuel circuit.

What else should i check? Is there another relay somewhere that I am not aware of? I saw on this forum something about a crank position sensor...what is that and where is it? Could it be the ECM?

All feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers

 

[Disco Mike]

This is going to take sometime to work thru. If you want some help, I would be glad to walk you thru what to test and do.

 

[BILZCOLLECTOR]

Good morning Mike.

After having spent several days with no success, I'm happy to try whatever you suggest.

 

[BILZCOLLECTOR]

Mike,

I changed the Crank Position Sensor (approx $70 from Advanced Auto Parts), topped off the coolant, checked the oil level and proceeded to start the truck. It started on the first crank. I drove it around the yard with no problems except for the aweful "exhaust leak" sound. Everything seems to work fine. After a bit of driving in the yard (3-4 minutes) the temp spiked all the way up on the temp gauge. Obviously I parked the truck. The oil showed no immediate sign of coolant but the coolant reservoir was cracked at the bottom and spewing coolant everywhere.

To change the CPS, I dropped the rear frame crossmember, disconnected the exhaust union in front of the muffler, unbolted the exhaust pipes from the manifolds on both sides, unplugged and removed the 4 oxy sensors, and dropped the entire pipe/cat conv assembly. Then I removed the cover from the CPS (located directly behind the connection point of the driver side exhaust manifold). I believe it requierd a 7mm stubby wrench. Then I removed the two nuts, the two sleeves, unplugged the sensor, pulled the sensor out and installed the new one in exactly the reverse order as mentioned here. I think the nuts on the sensor are 8mm. The only trouble was getting the cover to realign to receive both bolts. Then I reinstalled the exhaust assembly, oxy sensors, and lastly the rear frame crossmember.

I've ordered new exhaust gaskets & bolts, a low temp thermostat, all coolant hoses, water pump and coolant reservoir from BP Utah. Their prices were far and away better than BA though they were a bit cumbersome to deal with as you can't shop online with a basket. I placed the order on Monday morning and they shipped UPS on Tuesday afternoon....delivery for next Monday. Shipping options would have been appreciated from them. Total ticket for the above mentioned parts with shipping was about $605.00 (I ordered 2 thermostats)

When I begin the coolant system retrofit, is there anything else that I should do or check?

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Disco Mike]

T/Stat won't correct that fast a heat up.
Before you throw any of those parts on, first verify the electric fan is working, then test the viscus fan, if you know how to rule them out. At that point if nothing has changed, do a coolant pressure test and if needed a chemical block test, all before changing parts.

 

[BILZCOLLECTOR]

Mike,
Thanks for the quick response. I've reviewed the Rave manual, specifically the Cooling System section. It described the Viscous fan but I see no mention of the electric fan. Nor do I see a description of how to test these items. Please describe this process or refer me somewhere.

Also please indicate where I might find the instructions to perform the pressure tests that you refer to.

Thanks again for all of you help on the posts and via telephone.

Cheers,

Rick

 

[Disco Mike]

Rick, PM me your number and I'll walk you all of it.