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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
recently came into possession of an 08 LR2 with all but 160k on it. I'm looking to switch all the fluids over to AmsOil but have a few questions.

I know that the engine oil as changed routinely with full synthetic, not sure of the brand, but the previous owner said they never had the transmission or differentials serviced. With that many miles on both, it shouldn't hurt to upgrade to AmsOil correct?

The only fluid I won't be able to get is the transfer case..... I called a local dealership and they want $67.22 per quart... I really, really don't want to spend that much for oil. Is there another alternative? Should I just let the current fluid in them be? I've done some searching around for answers to particular question but haven't come up with a solid one.

Any help or input is appreciated. New to Land Rovers and want to make this one last.
 

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Royal Purple Synchromax. It's the equivalent to Shell TF0753

MaxGear 75W-90 in the diffs. 150K is the service interval on the trans so you should be good to go. It will take a couple changes to get the old oil out. Run it a bit in between.

Not doing maintenance is never an option- unless you like repair bills exceeding the value of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Royal Purple Synchromax. It's the equivalent to Shell TF0753

MaxGear 75W-90 in the diffs. 150K is the service interval on the trans so you should be good to go. It will take a couple changes to get the old oil out. Run it a bit in between.

Not doing maintenance is never an option- unless you like repair bills exceeding the value of the vehicle.

Sorry for the late reply, trying to learn this using my phone.

So you're saying use the royal purple for the transfer cases?

As far as everything else goes, engine, transmission, differentials etc. I was gonna go with the recommended AmsOil products listed on their website. I can get it at cost.
 

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Wow! amazing that the diffs are still working. LR2 diffs suffer from bearing issues (in some due to the interior paint flaking off and mixing with the diff oil and polluting it or and the bearings wearing out prematurely due to cheap metal used on the bearings or the angle that they sit on. Get those diff fluids done ASAP make sure they are not on their way out check the magnet plugs for large metal shavings if just dust then your good. Maybe the diffs were replaced already. It's about $1500. to replace the bearings on the diffs. Also check the cooling system for leaks or any parts needing replacement. Not same issues as D2's with cooling system.
Good Luck!
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow! amazing that the diffs are still working. LR2 diffs suffer from bearing issues (in some due to the interior paint flaking off and mixing with the diff oil and polluting it or and the bearings wearing out prematurely due to cheap metal used on the bearings or the angle that they sit on. Get those diff fluids done ASAP make sure they are not on their way out check the magnet plugs for large metal shavings if just dust then your good. Maybe the diffs were replaced already. It's about $1500. to replace the bearings on the diffs. Also check the cooling system for leaks or any parts needing replacement. Not same issues as D2's with cooling system.
Good Luck!
Dave
Thanks! I will as soon as I get the new fluids. I know the vehicle was serviced routinely and the person I got it from originally bought it from the dealership owner. They're gonna give me all the service records in a few weeks.

As far as AmsOil having a matching transfer case d
Fluid, they don't. At least not according to their website.
 

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For your application, Amsoil, Royal Purple or any of the name-brand oil company's products are going to do just fine.

Make sure you do a radiator service. At that age and mileage, I'm guessing the hoses are tired and should be preventative replaced. Make certain they use the proper coolant. A Universal or Lifetime isn't. It needs to be Rover-rated. Zerex G-05 is readily available and meets spec. You will need to get all the old stuff out, which will require several fills and drains with straight water.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For your application, Amsoil, Royal Purple or any of the name-brand oil company's products are going to do just fine.

Make sure you do a radiator service. At that age and mileage, I'm guessing the hoses are tired and should be preventative replaced. Make certain they use the proper coolant. A Universal or Lifetime isn't. It needs to be Rover-rated. Zerex G-05 is readily available and meets spec. You will need to get all the old stuff out, which will require several fills and drains with straight water.
'll have to ask and see if that was done yet. I briefly looked into doing it but haven't done any serious searching on it.

I'm gonna have to get the service records from the previous owner to know exactly what was done and when. They only ever took it to the dealership And never did any of their own work.

Haven't had it up on a lift to check underneath but may try and make that happen next week. Till then I'll try and limit drive time. It doesn't have to be driven by myself or my fiance for now, just hard not to since I just got it haha

Thank you for the input guys, glad I signed up here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Also, I talked to the previous owners wife, the one who kept records and track of what was done, she said it had a full service, trans and motor oil at the minimum, done when they bought it 4 years ago. I need to get my hands on the records to know everything that was done...

While I'm at it, is there any other things I should do a tune up on or replace?
 

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Get the Diff fluid done ASAP!
Dave
 

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The manual should have a service interval legend that can guide you. Aside from the fluids, the common things like belts and hoses are always good to service. it's always easier and cheaper to replace them before they fail. Use a good filter- the stock one or a Mann will do. U-joints are always worth a look at.
 

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I dont have one for NAS market but i doubt that it's different, tripple click on it to magnify
 

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Since you can't drain the converter, you have to keep draining and refilling until you get clean fluid coming out. That can take three cycles. You should do it all in one session. There's no value in doing it over time.

Work you get done by others is only as good as the person doing it. Rarely have I had work done that was performed as I would have done it. So I figure out how to do it myself. On the transmission, what you can run into is someone not using the proper fluid, someone not doing the job completely, someone using flushing substances, someone using a flush machine. And even a reputable shop can have have one moron who hasn't been there long and won't be much longer doing the easy work, which this one is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Since you can't drain the converter, you have to keep draining and refilling until you get clean fluid coming out. That can take three cycles. You should do it all in one session. There's no value in doing it over time.

Work you get done by others is only as good as the person doing it. Rarely have I had work done that was performed as I would have done it. So I figure out how to do it myself. On the transmission, what you can run into is someone not using the proper fluid, someone not doing the job completely, someone using flushing substances, someone using a flush machine. And even a reputable shop can have have one moron who hasn't been there long and won't be much longer doing the easy work, which this one is.
Gotcha. So can I use a cheaper, non specific ATF for the first flush or 2 before I switch to the one I want to keep in? I'm not versed on automatic transmissions.
 

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Gotcha. So can I use a cheaper, non specific ATF for the first flush or 2 before I switch to the one I want to keep in? I'm not versed on automatic transmissions.
Nope. You have to use that very expensive synthetic and then dump out several gallons that are only ten minutes old. You are continually diluting, not replacing.

Imagine you had a five gallon bucket of dirty oil. The only way you can get it to be clean oil is by drilling a hole halfway down and allowing it to drain. It's still half full of dirty oil. When you fill it back up, it's half clean and half dirty. Or more accurately, it's less-dirty. So you do it again. So, by measure, you have 75% new and 25% old. You do it again and you've now diluted to 87.5 clean. And so on. The only difference with the Rover is you have to put it back together and drive it to circulate the dirty oil out of the converter and all the passageways and chambers it won't drain down out of.

Sucks. But that's how it works. Pouring out a hundred bucks worth of ten minute old ATF blows. Two grand for a questionable used replacement and four for a reman blows by several orders of magnitude more.
 

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I guess what wasn't clearly explained is that the torque convertor, unlike that in vehicles in years past, does not have a drain plug. There's alot of fluid in it that you just can't get out unless you remove it and even then, you can't get all of it out. So, your only choice is dilution.

ATF is just hydraulic fluid with some additives. Some of those additives deal with handling worn clutch debris and some handle lubrication. All of these components wear out with time and use. As a parallel, you could do half an oil change in your engine and that would be better than no oil change at all, but you would lose a certain amount of the oil's protective ability
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I guess what wasn't clearly explained is that the torque convertor, unlike that in vehicles in years past, does not have a drain plug. There's alot of fluid in it that you just can't get out unless you remove it and even then, you can't get all of it out. So, your only choice is dilution.

ATF is just hydraulic fluid with some additives. Some of those additives deal with handling worn clutch debris and some handle lubrication. All of these components wear out with time and use. As a parallel, you could do half an oil change in your engine and that would be better than no oil change at all, but you would lose a certain amount of the oil's protective ability
Yeah that does blow. But thanks again for all the help. I'll update once i get everything done. Ordered a new filter and the gaskets that will be in tomorrow. I'm hoping to get to do the work early next week.
 
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