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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm really hoping someone can help me out with this, this has been the most stressful car situation I've ever had.
Basically, my lr2 has been in the shop for two months (at landrover dealership). I originally took it in because it was whining when turning the steering wheel and makes a rattling noise when I first start my car. They replaced the power steering pump twice, flushed it twice, replaced the rack and pinion, and replaced the filter. They told me it was better. It sounds exactly the same as when I took it in!! Does anyone know what else it might be?
 

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This system is a nightmare to fully bleed out. The feed line for the pump drops down, and then raises to the highest point in the system.

If you start it up after sitting for a while(with the fluid level correct) let it run for 30 seconds or so and shut it off, are there bubbles in the fluid? Remove the cap and look at the fluid with a light.
 

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There is air in the system then. That is the problem, but why it is still there is what needs to be sorted out. It can work itself out with just some driving, but again, due to the design of the system, this is difficult to do.

You could also have a bad seal going to the pump. This usually would cause a leak, but it is possible for it to only suck air in. There really isn't anything else in the system.

The best way to try and get some of the air out of the system is to start the vehicle, let it warm up. Then shut it off. Let it sit until there are no more bubbles in the fluid. Then start it up again and shut it off after about 5 seconds. Wait for the bubbles to go away again. This will need to be done several times. Once no more bubbles return, do it with turning the steering wheel all the way one way to the other, again shutting the vehicle off when once full lock is reached, and repeating after the bubbles go away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
There is air in the system then. That is the problem, but why it is still there is what needs to be sorted out. It can work itself out with just some driving, but again, due to the design of the system, this is difficult to do.

You could also have a bad seal going to the pump. This usually would cause a leak, but it is possible for it to only suck air in. There really isn't anything else in the system.

The best way to try and get some of the air out of the system is to start the vehicle, let it warm up. Then shut it off. Let it sit until there are no more bubbles in the fluid. Then start it up again and shut it off after about 5 seconds. Wait for the bubbles to go away again. This will need to be done several times. Once no more bubbles return, do it with turning the steering wheel all the way one way to the other, again shutting the vehicle off when once full lock is reached, and repeating after the bubbles go away.
Thank you, I will definitely try this. Does the fluid cap need to be off throughout this process?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No, but it can be without any issue. I usually leave it off to keep from having to remove it each time to see the fluid.
I did as you said. I was outside with my car getting the air out for about an hour. It still had bubbles in it but sounded much better so I left it at that. This morning I. Came out and started my car and it sounds horrible. Is this normal if you don't get all the air out or do I need to get the hoses checked to see if more air is being let into the system?
 

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A hose, fitting or the pump letting air in, but not leaking out is very uncommon, so if no fluid has been lost then it isn't likely this. But with most other variables already replaced, maybe...

If there was still bubbles, then there was still air in the system. If that air collected in the pump feed line, as soon as it was started it sucked it all right back in, and created a lot more bubbles. I've had to spend nearly 2 hours bleeding out this system before, including even sucking it down into a vacuum to help remove the air.

Only other thing, aside from a bad part, or incorrectly installed part is to check to make sure your rubber lines aren't collapsed. I don't see the rack causing this without a substantial loss of fluid.
 

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Do you know if your mechanic used the recommended method for flushing and purging the PAS system. Another question is have they fitted the correct pump as the petrol and diesel variants have different pumps. What filter did they change. The only filter I know of in the PAS system is built into the PAS fluid bottle and can't be changed without changing that. (It isn't expensive!)
 

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PS pump is out!

I've been having the same whining issues with mine and can get it to stop for a few days by trying to get the bubbles out, but it always starts again.

Last night I put it in 4wd in the snow, I turned the engine off, and when I started it back up, there was no power steering at all, (the whining stopped though! lol) so how screwed am I?

This is without a doubt the biggest piece of crap car on the planet.
 
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