My well-maintained 1996 SE7 with 153K refused to start for my wife yesterday, so she took my 1997 SE. I went out to her vehicle, checked everything underhood, turned the key and it started right up, as always. It has always had superior fuel pressure to the 1997 (which has a replacement fuel pump), so I assumed that, at some point in its cost-no-object maintenance history (5th car of a wealthy family that bought and serviced at dealer, then only top independants for my neighbor, the second owner, again cost-no-object maintenance), the fuel pump had been replaced! It did not start on 4-6 timed tries, and I heard no fuel noise from the rear, so I went to check and found that the original carpet and rubber padding have never been lifted from new. Uh-oh. The heads of the screws are rusted, although I have a Philips-head screwdriver with me (they may be square drive-head screws...), it's not going to do the job to remove the access panel without penetrant soaking, so that I could try cleaning the electrical connections, etc. This parking garage at my office is only big enough to get a wheel lift tow truck into due to height. A disabled Land Rover requires all 4-wheels up to move out, so they would have to dolly the rear, front on a wheels lift. I am 50+ miles from home, where I have an empty car trailer and plenty of tools. Any tricks that I can try when fuel pump-in-tank access is not an option? I will try waiting until it eventually starts, but that could be several hours. I'll replace the pump today when I get it home. The most expensive dealer in the world is nearby, but I am certain that they will not have a D1 fuel pump in stock and could not replace it anytime soon. I am a captive audience!
1996 D1, stuck in a parking structure, suspect failing/failed fuel pump, any ideas?
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i assume the engines turning over? i found with intermitent problems sometimes rocking the vehicle has some effect. fuel pump problems are sometimes solved (temporarily) by hitting your tank with a rubber mallet.
I am back with tools after procuring a rental to get home. Yes, turns over mightily, just cranking with no fuel noise, although relays are clicking when key position is energized. Brought a rubber mallet, will try! Otherwise it's a 100+ mile tow and a trip to get the trailer, return the rental, a nightmare of wasting time. Odd it would die only after parking...
Oh, anyone know what type of screws those were holding the fuel pump access cover on? Phillips? Torx? Square drive? Allen? Cannot tell from original condition under the mat for years. Have everything except square drive with me, nothing is fitting!
The screws are phillips. Use a dremel or angle grinder and zip the heads off. Once the plate is removed you should be able to walk the threads of the screws out of the plastic inserts by grabbing them with Vise Grips.
Replacing the pump is pretty easy with about 3 ft of fuel injection line, 4 fuel line hose clamps, and a new GM pump. Assuming the pump housing is in good condition.
First, check your fuses. Then when you gain access to the top of the fuel pump, pull the plugs off. Have a helper turn the key to Pos II while you check the plug with a test light. The pump will only have power for a few seconds so you'll have to be quick, or do this cycle a couple times. If there's no power at the pump plug, fall back to the plug on the drivers side wheel well and test for power there. You want to verify the pump is getting power before doing surgery.
Also, you should be able to turn the key to Pos II and shift out of park. No need for dollies and whatnot.
Replacing the pump is pretty easy with about 3 ft of fuel injection line, 4 fuel line hose clamps, and a new GM pump. Assuming the pump housing is in good condition.
First, check your fuses. Then when you gain access to the top of the fuel pump, pull the plugs off. Have a helper turn the key to Pos II while you check the plug with a test light. The pump will only have power for a few seconds so you'll have to be quick, or do this cycle a couple times. If there's no power at the pump plug, fall back to the plug on the drivers side wheel well and test for power there. You want to verify the pump is getting power before doing surgery.
Also, you should be able to turn the key to Pos II and shift out of park. No need for dollies and whatnot.
Update, out of garage, flat bed to home, teardown
What an experience, on one of the most reliable and well-maintained Land Rovers ever, after our pristine stolen 1993 LWB! Had to be pushed uphill by 3 guys and out of parking structure to a level lot where it could be loaded. Tow truck operator said that they don't even attempt driving in, period, not even a wheel lift would work. The original foam mat underlying the rear carpet had done an excellent job of retaining condensation over time since 1996, rendering the steel philips-head screws unrecognizable as such, and supporting some rust formation under the mat at the door opening, bizarre for an otherwise rust-free Arizona and California vehicle. Once home, tried every possible tool, finally drilled off heads or twisted screws out after vibration got them loose. Power at connector, dead original pump after 153K and 17 years! Strainer and tank surprisingly clean. When I replaced the pump on my 1997 SE, I was able to reuse the original fuel line to the pump. This one appears to need cutting off, so I will have to submerse some aftermarket injection hose and clamps, which will no doubt be inferior to the durable factory hose. At least this should not happen again for another 100K! Going to try the recommended replacement 1996 Impala SS pump. Thanks for the assistance!
What an experience, on one of the most reliable and well-maintained Land Rovers ever, after our pristine stolen 1993 LWB! Had to be pushed uphill by 3 guys and out of parking structure to a level lot where it could be loaded. Tow truck operator said that they don't even attempt driving in, period, not even a wheel lift would work. The original foam mat underlying the rear carpet had done an excellent job of retaining condensation over time since 1996, rendering the steel philips-head screws unrecognizable as such, and supporting some rust formation under the mat at the door opening, bizarre for an otherwise rust-free Arizona and California vehicle. Once home, tried every possible tool, finally drilled off heads or twisted screws out after vibration got them loose. Power at connector, dead original pump after 153K and 17 years! Strainer and tank surprisingly clean. When I replaced the pump on my 1997 SE, I was able to reuse the original fuel line to the pump. This one appears to need cutting off, so I will have to submerse some aftermarket injection hose and clamps, which will no doubt be inferior to the durable factory hose. At least this should not happen again for another 100K! Going to try the recommended replacement 1996 Impala SS pump. Thanks for the assistance!
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