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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The wife drove the rover to work today as normal. Came out later in the day to head home and nothing would happen after turning the key in the ignition. You can hear a slight click under the front passenger seat but that's about it. One single little click sound. I show up at her work thinking it was the starter or battery. I attempt to start the rover. The interior lights, dash lights gauges, information center all come on and work as usual. I go to turn the ignition all the way and nothing happens. I crawl underneath bang on the starer and nothing battery measures 12 volts. Starter doesn't attempt to even engage or spin so not sure that's the problem either. So after all this I go to turn the key back and pull it out of the ignition and guess what...it's stuck in the ignition! What is happening? Please help! The rover is stuck on the 3rd floor parking garage where a tow Truck cannot get to it so I have to try and fix onsite. The information center has nothing regarding lock out message or otherwise it looks normal ready to start???:dunno:
 

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Is it in Park? Better question is does it think it's in park?

What gear does the shifter surround say? Try it in Neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It says it's in park on the gear selector as well as the dash board. However I've read if you don't see a check engine light on start up or key position 2 then most likely the becm has lost sync with the ecm. I can pull out relay 16 "SM"starter motor, I can use a jumper across pins 3 and 5 and get the starter to spin but I'm not getting ignition when I do that bc it won't start. I'm guessing the becm is not sending out the signal or communicating with the ecm/ecu the way it should to produce spark while in attempting to bypass the relay with jumper. Everything I've read sound like if I'm not getting a CEL display on dash during attempt to start it will not start and has lost sync. I'm trying to buy a black box sync mate for my Gems and see if that will fix it. That's my only guess at this point and unfortunately the company black box solution is closed until may 8! :complain:I'm located in Kansas city, Missouri.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ive read that people are able to turn over the engine/starter but the vehicle won't start without the Cel on the dash. My rover has no Cel and will not even try to crank/ turn starter nothing. Could this still be a sync problem? Looks like it will be a minimum of 2 Weeks before black box solution will ship out the sync mate. Meanwhile I'm stuck in the parking garage ughhhh!!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone in the USA sell black box sync mate for gems motor p38 range rover? I need one asap! Please help!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So do you think I need to buy the syncmate then to fix my problem? Any clue where I could find a sync mate in the us so im not stranded for the next 2 Weeks waiting on it to get here?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
not sure I quite understand what could have caused this issue all the sudden. does anybody have any clues on what causes them to go out of sync? is it even possible to drive it to work and then let it set for 8 hours to come back to the car that's out of sync? Mind boggling these rovers! I just hope that the sync mate fixes the problem and it's not the becm that's the problem. Time will tell!
 

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Usually this happens when battery voltage gets low. But it can easily be caused by a poor connection at either the BeCM or the ECM.
There is also a chance that it is not just out of sync, and one of the modules, or wiring between them, has failed.

But first place to start is see if they will sync. If you have a generic scanner, may be worth hooking up and see if you're able to communicate at all with the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
can anyone tell me if I should buy the BECM into ECU SyncMate or the Faultmate would do more for the same amount of money. I'd the faultmate will read codes and also Sync which I need to do anyways I would rather buy The Faultmate since it does more for close to the same amount of money
 

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Discussion Starter #11
can anyone tell me if I should buy the BECM into ECU SyncMate or the Faultmate would do more for the same amount of money. I'd the faultmate will read codes and also Sync which I need to do anyways I would rather buy The Faultmate since it does more for close to the same amount of money
 

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Discussion Starter #12
just an update I was able to get the car home finally last weekend. I figured the battery was going to be low so I went ahead and put it on the charger while waiting on my syncmate to arrive from black box solution. remarkably after 2 weeks of setting in a parking garage the battery acted the same it was able to roll the windows up and down all the dash lights came on as normal however when I plug in the charger it showed only 5 percent charged at 11.7 volts. previously I also tried to jump start the battery and nothing but when I jumped out the starter motor relay it had enough to send it to spend the starter no problem. after 3 attempts to charge the battery it would only charge to 60 percent so I'm guessing it has damage cells. I took the battery in the auto parts store they tested it and they agreed it was a bad battery. pretty sure I still have a link problem as I'm not getting a check engine light but the bad battery could have some also to do with it
 

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Hello Curtis, hope all is well. Did you ever figure out what the issue was? I have a similar issue and was wondering if it was related.

My Story:

I was replacing the driver-side wheel hub one fine day and once I was done I took the Rover for a test drive (2001 P38). Everything worked fine so I parked it and left it for the night. The next day I get in and attempt to start it and nothing. The vehicle would not attempt to crank, the dash board did not seem have any power (no messages, no Check Engine Light, No ABS or Brake Warning Lights, no messages on the screen - completely off). I would turn the Key and instead of the vehicle cranking, I would hear a faint click underneath the Passenger Seat (Not sure if this is the Becm or the Starter underneath the vehicle). I checked Battery Voltage, all was good. Tried to Jump the battery with a Battery Charger (it has a jump start setting) and nothing. Checked the Starter Relay and it seemed to work. All locks open and close so I suspect the car in not in inmobilization mode. I am able to insert and remove the key just fine.

I have not yet attempted to Jump the Starter Pins or applied voltage directly to the Starter to determine if this is the culprit, but I'll do that tonight.

Additional Info:
1) The Dashboard does not display anything when I turn the Key. It is completely dark. However if I open the driver door, it lights up and shows info (example: key in ignition, etc). I don't see any inmobilization message and I don't recall if I saw warning/CEL lights.

2) When the vehicle was operation these past few weeks, the dash display has been acting up. It is as if had a short or a loose connection somewhere. While the car is on, driving or not, the dash would turn off and on intermittently (fuel gauge needle would work and then drop during the episode) and I would hear several rapid clicks which sounded like relays. Not sure exactly where these clicks came from or how many different places they were coming from, but I know definitely that one of clicks came from the shifter. I know there is a relay there that allows you to change the knob once the brakes are pressed. I would hear several rapid clicks there and after a while they would go away (shifter clicks and Display issue happened simultaneously); this would happen several times during the drive. Some of this clicking may also be coming from the Becm, but I'm not completely sure as this happens while I'm driving. It has happened while the vehicle is idle, but haven't been able to identify if some of these "clicks" actually come from the Becm.

3) When I purchased the car, I did not get the original Key. Every so often, the Car will enter inmobilization Mode and I will have enter the Emergency Key Access Code with the open and close sequence using the key. So far this has happened about 5 times in the last 2 years and I have sucessfully gotten it out of alarm mode, but I have found that it seldom works the first few tries and I generally end up getting it to work after several hours.

There is definitely some electrical issue causing these intermittent clicks (relays?) and the Dashboard to turn off and on. If any experts read this, any clues of where I should look? Loose wires in the BECM? Curtis suggests that his Becm may be out of sync, could this be a potential reason why I cant get my Rover to crank? All suggestions are welcome. Thank you (Luis).
 

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I have 97 P38 yesterday I parked the car and in morning when I cam back to vehicle the driver door is getting open (with key remote not working since ages) but no room light no sound no dash light not starting engine no sound (relay or any electric gadget). Day before yesterday my car's sunroof went blown in air and now its open sky.

Tried EKA but not sure the code is the same written on card.

Help if some one can.
 

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My dash hevac gas gauge all flash and flutter,
i pulled all big fuses under the hood and replaced them, there was a burnt one so i tried switchin it with another. truck would not start, put them back, truck started up
 

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Cranks but wont start - 1997 p38 gems motor
I sorted quite a bit out since owning this vehicle. Did the fuse box fix and everything was going great. Had an alternator issue and sorted that one out.... now I have an issue of a no crank no start.
Checked power at starter 12.5 volt, bypassed relay and motor spins but when placing relay 19 (SM)back in place no crank again. IF I take relay 21 out and place back in I get key crank but no start.

Could use some help on this one.

No CEL on dashboard ever and not sure what it is but never saw it gefore.

Thanks in advance

My key fob is dead, has been dead since I've owned it, cant get battery open to change.
 

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Just checking back in.... I took a look and there is no Check Engine Light when i turn the key.

Has this thread gone dark as well?
 
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