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I had codes P0137, P0141, P0161. The P0161 code would not clear with my reader, at all, and in about 40 miles the CK Eng Light came back on and all three codes reappeared on the reader.

I changed all four O2 sensors with the cheapest ones I could find on the internet. I changed the spark plugs and the wires (two wires I couldn't reach so I didn't change those) and I put in a new air cleaner. I checked the wires and connections on the O2 sensors. I even poured in gas additive and used premium gas. No help.

At the advise of a guy who seemed to know, he said the cheap O2 sensors were most likely the problem and that they didn't communicate properly. So I bought two Bosch 15630 rear sensors for $150 and installed them. It went from about $5 each to $75 each. By the way, the cheap ones did work on the front, I never got those codes. Luckily, the rear (after Catalytic Converter) O2 Sensors are the easier ones to change.

At about 9 miles on the drive after installation (regular driving, not the ridiculous drive cycle), all but two went ready and no codes. At about 14 miles all but one (Evap) went ready with no codes. I got it inspected and I'm in business.

When you read the codes it talks about the O2 heaters and all kinds of stuff that will confuse you. The important thing is the O2 Sensors/Heaters are one unit and whether its the heater or the sensor itself, its all the same. All that talk is extraneous and confusing because if the Heater is the problem, you change the O2 Sensor, if the Sensor is the problem, yea, you change the O2 Sensor. The moral to the story, all the time you waist trying to figure it out and run drive cycles and on and on probably cost more than the $150.
 

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very disco
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True. Even unbelievably low priced “Bosch” units on eBay are possibly clones or knockoffs

codes are helpful for identifying the system at fault, but not always exactly the component as some component failures cause symptoms further down the line.
 

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There are quite a few posts which confirm that the cheap O2 sensors do not work on the DII. Not worth the time and effort to try them.
 

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you
I had codes P0137, P0141, P0161. The P0161 code would not clear with my reader, at all, and in about 40 miles the CK Eng Light came back on and all three codes reappeared on the reader.

I changed all four O2 sensors with the cheapest ones I could find on the internet. I changed the spark plugs and the wires (two wires I couldn't reach so I didn't change those) and I put in a new air cleaner. I checked the wires and connections on the O2 sensors. I even poured in gas additive and used premium gas. No help.

At the advise of a guy who seemed to know, he said the cheap O2 sensors were most likely the problem and that they didn't communicate properly. So I bought two Bosch 15630 rear sensors for $150 and installed them. It went from about $5 each to $75 each. By the way, the cheap ones did work on the front, I never got those codes. Luckily, the rear (after Catalytic Converter) O2 Sensors are the easier ones to change.

At about 9 miles on the drive after installation (regular driving, not the ridiculous drive cycle), all but two went ready and no codes. At about 14 miles all but one (Evap) went ready with no codes. I got it inspected and I'm in business.

When you read the codes it talks about the O2 heaters and all kinds of stuff that will confuse you. The important thing is the O2 Sensors/Heaters are one unit and whether its the heater or the sensor itself, its all the same. All that talk is extraneous and confusing because if the Heater is the problem, you change the O2 Sensor, if the Sensor is the problem, yea, you change the O2 Sensor. The moral to the story, all the time you waist trying to figure it out and run drive cycles and on and on probably cost more than the $150.
expressed that perfectly. I have talked it around twenty times and couldn't get it right just went thru that exactly last month, but my back were fine with the 4 Ho2s for $45 on Amazon. The front wouldn't register voltage nor heater.
 

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Expert Crate Digger
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About a month ago I had 15A fuse F2 pop in the engine bay, CEL, and fault codes P0141, P0158 & P0161. Found my B2S2 (RH rear) O2 sensor wire rubbed through and shorted on the driveshaft. Replaced both rear O2 sensors since they were old and the fuse and things are going great.

Glad to hear the Bosch O2 sensors worked for you.
In my experience with O2 sensors for the V8 Disco 2... NTK #25623 UP & #25624 DOWN or Walker Premium #350-34462 UP & #350-34188 DOWN are the better brands.
As much as I am Team Bosch for their parts, other Disco 2 owners have stated the quality of Bosch's O2 sensors have been more bad than good nowadays.
 
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