2000 D2 Radiator Removal and Horns

2039 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by acamato, Dec 29, 2013

wmsimpson

Discussion Starter · Dec 26, 2013

I'm trying to remove the radiator in order gain clearance to install a new camshaft (long story) and I'm a bit confused by the manual. It says to "Remove 2 bolts securing the radiator LH and RH mounting upper brackets to body panel and remove brackets."

I've removed about every bolt I have access to and still the radiator won't move. I think I see two bolts holding these brackets, but the heads are behind a foam insulator glued into a body cavity on either side of the radiator aperture. The manual says nothing about these foam insulators. Do I need to remove them? If so, any advice on doing this without destroying them? Or should I just declare them to be unnecessary, rip them out in pieces and toss them into the garbage?

While I'm on the subject, it looks like there are molded in recesses for the horns in these foam pieces. My horns appear to have been replaced (one says "Tahoe" on it) and both were mounted inside the radiator aperture. Is it safe to assume the correct horns will fit nicely in those pretty shaped recesses in the foam bits?

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Disco Mike

· #2 · Dec 26, 2013

Might want to check out the Rave CD, great instructions there.
Who's cam are you installing? If you are over 100,00 miles and haven't replaced the oil pump and timing chain set at the same time

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wmsimpson

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 26, 2013

Disco Mike said:
Might want to check out the Rave CD, great instructions there.

I am using the RAVE manual. It doesn't mention the foam inserts and they don't show in up in the pictures. I guess I'll just try and winkle them out and reuse them. The bolts behind them must be the ones they're speaking of.

Who's cam are you installing?

It's a BritPart cam. Given the reputation of Rover cams rounding over, I felt no urgency to stick with Genuine.

If you are over 100,00 miles and haven't replaced the oil pump and timing chain set at the same time

That is the plan. I have new oil pump gears, timing chain and gears to go with my new cam and lifters.

Fun! (not)

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redtruck12

· #4 · Dec 27, 2013

Yes there are 2 bolts hidden behind those foam blocks, right in the area of the horns original locations. Yes in the foam. You shouldn't have to remove them but will have to pull them out at the top.
Also there are 2 bolts holding the coolers to the front of the radiator which are Phillips head as I recall. I removed the coolers from the radiator without disconnecting the lines when I did mine

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wmsimpson

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 27, 2013

redtruck12 said:
Yes there are 2 bolts hidden behind those foam blocks, right in the area of the horns original locations.

Thank you!

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wmsimpson

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 28, 2013

Finally out. What a labor of Hercules! Hardest part was removing the quick couplings on the oil coolers. You'd think these are a good idea, but only if rust resistant meterials are used. It will take a bit of penetrating oil and wiggling to make these operate smoothly again.

Now on the to the next insoluble problem. Wait for it...

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acamato

· #7 · Dec 29, 2013

You didn't need to remove the coolers, you can remove them from the radiator when its in the DII. The remove the radiator only. I just did it last weekend. I put a hole in my radiator when I was changing my power steering return hose.

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